AUGUST 2016 : SPAIN : Santiago de Compostela

Rest day today. Our first job was to find a delicious bakery for our coffee, which we did.

We heard some traditional tunes played by bagpipe and tamborine, reminiscent of the Muxia festival.

                                            

Many priests and nuns in the city with so many churches and monasteries to support.

         

Stalls to tempt tourists. These are gorgeous country scenes with a Camino twist.

                                   

                                        

At every turn another church or chapel. This one dedicated to San Pelayo, our saint of the week.

        

In a quiet street we found this upmarket restaurant, A Curtidoria Restaurante, with a 13 euro Menú del Día.

        

            Ambience and excellent menu.

                                          

No language needed. A small family and a mother with an unfinished meal. This is Claudia, a most placid child and the best antidote for an abuela (grandmother), who is missing her grandchildren.

                                         

                                         The picturesque narrow street back to our pensión.

                                 

      

Time for a haircut and trim. A bit of Spanish makeover magic. Next door to Casa Felisa for dinner in a romantic setting. Very fitting for our final evening in Spain. And one of the waiter's brothers lives in Canberra!

M&M

AUGUST 2016 : SPAIN : CAMINO INGLÉS : DAY 7 : Sigüeiro - Santiago de Compostela - 16 kms - 5 hours

Distance walked : 114 kms

Last day - short and relatively flat in mild conditions, probably about 22o. Mark was keen to walk as much as he could. He was able to walk to the outskirts of the city and meet me in the cathedral square. Sad to be finishing, what maybe our last Camino, but feeling delighted and satisfied to have accomplished what we planned...and to have improved my Spanish conversation along the way.

      

We had breakfast at 7 at Cafe Cortes across the road. I mention this particularly for others planning to walk this route as it was an excellent restaurant for dinner last night. Very popular with the locals, extensive menu and reasonably priced.

                                  

                                    We passed the local church on our way out of town.

         

           Sunrise with Mark hopeful of a decent walk today.

        

         A young (unfazed) hare feeding on the path.

        

                   Looking towards Santiago. Not a wildfire just firefighting training.

          

            Everyone keen to reach our destination.

        

            Always time for coffee.

        

           Tracks mirroring the highway

       

         Bread delivery for a local family

        

  Outskirts of Santiago in the light industrial district. Mark decides to call a taxi for the last section.

                                    

                                            And meets me as I enter the cathedral square.

 

       

My credential, with stamps from places along the 3 camino routes. 24 days walking. 438 kms. About 690,000 steps.

           

Back to Pepe's for lunch. They asked if we'd like a room - next time. We are staying nearby in Pension Santa Cristina.

Lots of groups arriving to get their Compostela, after walking at least 100 kms on various routes.

Walkers walking back from the Compostela office now situated in a quite street where there are several Correos (post office) buildings dealing with bike, luggage transport as well travel advice and bus tickets. Big industry and brisk business for the city.

       

        Variegated plants caught my eye...aesthetic rather than from a gardening perspective.

     

                                Wonderful meal and drinks to celebrate our successful arrival.

M&M

AUGUST 2016 : SPAIN : CAMINO INGLÉS : DAY 6 : Hospital de Bruma - Sigüeiro - 21 kms - 5 1/2 hours - 33,000 steps

Distance walked so far : 98 kms

We have been so lucky with the weather. Mild temperatures to begin the day but not cold and then the heat seems to hit in the late afternoon after we have reached our destination. Today was through farming villages, two places to stop for food and refreshments, but a quiet walk with no traffic.

Mark was able to catch a bus from a village 1km away from the albergue.

                                       

 In the dawn light a bizarre sight in a field with tall sculptures, dinosaurs and a mishmash of styles

     

       An interesting tableau

       

         A Rúa. Some pilgrims stayed at the Casa Rural in this village.

         

             Perfect timing for coffee.

                                       

Also in A Rúa or Buscas is the Church of San Paio. There's obliviously an interesting and dramatic story to this saint, a child martyr, which I'm going to investigate.

                                       

                                                 A farmer's wife out early picking peppers.

          

              An abandoned manor house.

         

           Only a few small hamlets en route.

        

           Lots of shade.

                                       

Our first view of Sigüeiro, a town dating back to the twelfth century but not much evidence of its historical past now. It is a modern service town.

      

        Entrance to the town through a pretty park

                                           

I met Mark in the town square where lots of families were having pre-lunch gatherings at cafes. With each drink you were served with a small dish of cassoulet. Delicious.

        

     An albergue in an apartment - 13 euros pp.

        

      Our own room, kitchen and laundry facilities and central to the town.

                             

                                 And for dinner tonight?

                    

                      It said cutlet on the menu!

Lots of gun shots along the way this morning and more as we enter the town. We thought it might be hunting season but we've been told there is a festival at the church. Noisy lot!

Tomorrow we arrive in Santiago..again. This walk has been the perfect pace and length to complete our holiday in Spain. We have met some lovely people with fascinating stories and backgrounds.

M&M

AUGUST 2016 : SPAIN : CAMINO INGLÉS : DAY 5 : Betanzos - Hospital de Bruma - 26 kms - 71/2 hours

Distance walked so far : 77 kms

This is considered the most arduous day of the Camino Inglés due to the ascents and also the lack of facilities along the way. I left early at 7am travelling with a Dutchman out of Betanzos. It was a lovely walk through quiet roads, paths, through farming communities with great open views, some climbing (but not for long) and two wonderful cafe/ bar stops. Only 22 beds at the albergue and it is the meeting of the A Coruña route. Mark, through excellent direction from the Betanzos tourist office, caught a bus to Cafe Julia and then organised a taxi to Hospital de Bruma.

Leaving Betanzos at dawn.

Few familiar faces along the way.

Brief stop at Abegondo.

Lots of off-road paths

Wide valleys with farms - cattle, pigs, vegetables, corn, horse studs..

Amongst the chestnuts a magic mushroom

Like an oasis there was an amazing cafe, Mesón Museo. Alfredo, the owner has covered the premises with his artwork. Others that broke their journey here at the albergue in Presedo said it was an excellent stop due to the wonderful meals at Mesón Museo.

It was full of pilgrims. There was a large group from the Spanish province in North Africa, Cueta. 

        

Delicious Madralena orange cake and coffee.

Lush farming country

                                     

                                        Ripe blackberries

      

        Jamon y queso bocadillos at Cafe Julia

      

         Delicious but quite a challenge

     

         Only 3 kms to go!

      

  Arriving at Bruma. 22 beds only for a busy route. 6 euros.

                                          

An expected surprise...a bar with Internet..unfortunately not functioning! We had been warned there was no facilities, so we have come fully prepared with food etc for our meal tonight.

                                    

  Then a mobile supermarket arrived to fulfill all our shopping needs

   

                                    

Relaxing by the stream after a long day's walk

Male dragonfly also sharing the water

The female dragonfly

A Waterman gliding by

A family gathering of Watermen

                                      

                                              Small church in the village

Self-catering - a first for us - bocadillos with a difference - with avocado!

Pleasant stop with more facilities than expected along the way and in this little hamlet.

M&M