We are so enjoying staying in this part of Paris and can’t believe our immediate view of traditional apartments. Today’s tour to Montmartre was such a contrast to this neighbourhood.
We caught the Metro to Montmartre and met our fellow travellers at a little cafe, Chez Ginette.
Claude, our guide from yesterday’s tour, lives in Montmartre and was keen to introduce us to this special community. Montmartre was a farming settlement on a large hill on the northern edge of Paris, when artists began to move into the area in the late 1800s. This period of art was known as Belle Epoch. It is still an unconventional area, housing many studios, many with histories dating back 130 years.
‘Adopt a tree’ is a new Paris iniative where residents pay 1,000 euros a year for the privilege of fostering a tree and grow gardens, vegetables etc around them.
From the onset we could see a variety of architecture and the feeling of community.
Decoration on the houses denoted the type of artisan or the particular artist’s residence or workshop.
Large north facing windows were favoured by artists for the best light
One of my favourite saints is Saint Denis. He was the first bishop in Paris in the third century but was beheaded when he refused to renounce his faith under the Roman rule. Legend has it that, after his beheading, he picked up his head, washed it in a fountain and carried it to the top of the hill to his preferred resting place. The hill became known as the Mountain of Martyrs or Montmartre.
The main landmark on Montmartre is the Basilica of Sacré Coeur. Claude totally discounted the validity of the building as he said it was only built after the Parisians’ defeat in the Franco- Prussian War in the 1860s blaming their lack of faith for their failure. He said it was not architecturally pleasing and was not popular when built, for the vast expense and the difficulty in stabilising such a large structure on a soft gypsum base. This does not faze the millions of tourists who visit it every year.
Meanwhile only metres away is the church of St Peter, the 12th century community church, the preferred place of worship.
Mass was just finishing as we passed by. Today is Laetare (Rejoice) Sunday - the fourth Sunday in Lent. It is also called Rose Sunday so rather than purple, the traditional colour of Lent, priests wear pink to signify that it is half way through the austerity of Lent and the promise of Easter.
Across the square from St Peter’s is the bustling artists’ quarter.
Incidental artwork everywhere.
Back to the business district of Montmartre
After a delicious lunch at Andrew and Ebba’s, the birthday festivities were over. Many of the international guests caught flights and trains home this evening. We feel very privileged to have been part of the group..and pleased we have a few more days to savour Paris.
PS Tonight we walked down Rue Saint Ferdinand and found a few restaurants open and thriving after Mass on a Sunday night. We discovered Au Petit Maguery with a three course deal and lots of atmosphere. The Grand Marnier soufflé will guarantee we have a full night’s sleep tonight.
M&M
