SEPTEMBER 2022 : FRANCE: STEVENSON TRAIL : Day 2 : Le Monastier sur Gazielle - Le Bouchet St Nicolas : 23 kms

Second stage

Le Monastier sur Gazeille to Le Brouchet St Nicolas

23 kms (41,335 steps)

Forecast : Cloudy and 11o

Breakfast included

We set off about 8.45am into a chilly wind.

Impressive vistas as soon as we walked out of the town.



Varied terrain and such views



We are getting to know some of the walkers. There are Dutch friends and French friends and a French girl Mark has dubbed Antoinette.

Coffee together this morning in Saint Martin de Fuegueres

A volcanic rock - with description on the path

Perfect conditions today

The path down and up from Goudet (on the Loire) was rocky and steep. We had our delicious picnic lunch (provided by the hotel) in Goudet.



More hedgerow plants to add to my collection

At last donkeys who were as keen us to get acquainted. A few other creatures interested us along the way.

Encouraging signpost pointing us to our final destination.

Then across the fields we saw our auberge!

Full tonight with a range of visitors. Many staying in the gypsy caravans.

Dinner was a wonderful surprise. All the guests at one long table. A large bike group from Montbrison on a four day ride and a very friendly French couple on another walk. Everyone was so welcoming, surprised we were from so far away and used all their English vocabulary to include us. The meal included a Le Puy lentil salad and lentil dessert - lentils homegrown in the auberge garden.

It was a very special night!

M&M

SEPTEMBER 2022 : FRANCE : STEVENSON TRAIL : Day 1 : Le Puy - Le Monastier sur Gazeille : 19 kms

Breakfast included.

Lots of other people in walking gear at breakfast. Interesting to see what their stories are..

Bags collected by 8am

First stage

Excited to start

Leaving Le Puy

From the first GR guiding red and white waymarkers, which were frequent, the route (with a steep climb out of Le Puy) was a glorious green or brilliant yellow canola.

Coffee in Coubon



Clear signposts

Hedgerow plants

Huge toadstools

Livestock enjoying lush pasture. No donkeys yet.

A farmer spreading liquid cow manure on recently harvested fields - bit up close and personal

Buildings and small hamlets

Snacks for lunch on the trail. We managed the ups and downs on well-made, solid paths. At about 2.30pm we had our first glimpse of Le Monastier sur Gazielle, our destination today. In the centre of the small town there is a statue commemorating Robert Louis Stevenson’s inaugural walk in 1878.



A few other tributes as well around the town

We are staying at a small hotel, Les Acacias, which on the edge of town.

Dinner in the busy restaurant downstairs

Up to 60% rain was forecast today but it held off until after we arrived at our hotel. It was about 15o and sunny, which suited us perfectly.
Mark’s phone said we walked 22 kms today and it will be the same distance tomorrow. No injuries or problems - yet!

M&M

SEPTEMBER 2022 : FRANCE : Lyon - Le Puy-en-Velay

The more we are in Lyon the better we like it. Another good walking city.

Overnight Autumn colours and wintery chill.
Lots of mad cyclists and scooters dashing around on bike paths.

Swimming pool by the river - swimmers doing laps there yesterday. Tempted.

Looking for the perfect cafe for breakfast. Some not open at 8.

Newtree Eco Cafe with French toast and scrumptious juice



We were planning to catch a taxi to the train station but none were available. With the help of maps.me Mark guided us on a hour walk through the north- eastern part of town to the main train station.

We knew we were there because there was an iconic building across the street ..

Why leave home?

Westfield, Dominos, Sofitel…

Just one change at the small town of Etienne on our Lyon - Le Puy train trip.

Two carriage modern train through the Loire Valley. Two hours.

Le Puy-en-Velay. Home to green Le Puy lentils. 12th century cathedral, which is the setting off point for the French Chemin to Santiago. More latterly since 1878, the beginning of the Robert Louis Stevenson Trail through the Cevenne.



Beautiful heart with 3 story buildings and muted coloured shutters. Some dating back to the 1600s.

Maison de Thé was where we stayed last time in 2012.

We have organised this walk with a British company, Mac Adventures - accommodation, meals, baggage transfer and maps, GPS support.

Our first hotel is on the GR70 route, so when we set off tomorrow we are already on track.

(Very excited to have an English speaking channel on TV - first one in a month! What have we missed? So much weather!)

We first learnt of this walk by friends who enjoyed it. We loved the area last time, although this time we head directly south rather than to the west. Our interest was also sparked when we saw the French comedy - Antoinette dans les Cevennes - we hope our journey won’t be as fraught!

Dinner included 

Rabbit paté, warm chevre (goats cheese) salad, fish, veal, apple tart, chocolate mousse

M&M

SEPTEMBER 2022 : FRANCE : Lyon

Lyon, a major centre in France. It was another crucial Roman colony, and later centre of the silk trade. It is situated on the Rhône River - important for trade and tourism, particularly river cruises.

Coffee and pastries for breakfast courtesy of a little cafe and patisserie across the road

As it turns out we are staying in the University district on the left bank (on the right side of the map).There are lots of international cafes and we are close to the river.

We decided to create our own walking tour today, crossing both rivers with our destination being Notre Dame de Fourviere standing high over the city and the old town.

We crossed over several bridges before reaching the right bank via Pont St George, with St George killing the dragon over the main door.



Here we are crossing the Pont St Georges - one of the foot bridges





We enjoyed our walk through the alleyways and planned to walk to the top but we became fascinated with the funicular ferrying visitors up the mountain.

We took the funicular to the summit. A beautiful building. My highlight was the mosaic of St Joan of Arc.

In the crypt a colourful hanging of St James and the importance of the French chemin pilgrimage walk from Le Puy, which we did in September 2012.

We were the first customers at a cafe by the church with views over the city. Felt like the Sacre Coeur area precinct of Paris.

Back to river level. Iconic French shops



Another major church, St Jean

Some brief impressions - beautifully preserved buildings, colourful cafes and decor.

Lunch in the old town.

Onion soup and veal kidneys for me

Snails and duck for Mark

When in France…

 

An interesting 10km walk, trying to keep up our fitness.

Summer is over. Sneakers/boots, jackets and obligatory scarf are the fashion. Cool wind and threatening clouds.
Quick wardrobe change.

Risotto tonight with our very attentive host

And a stroll before turning in

M&M