Sunday 30 September 2018

SEPTEMBER 2018 : ITALY : VIA DI FRANCESCO : DAY 4 : Stia - Monasterio di Camaldoli : 16 km? (felt much more) : 7+ hours


Not our favourite day’s walking today. On the face of it, it was a 16.5kms walk, usually it would take at the most 5 hours. It took us 7+ hours up stony, endless, unshaded, paths.


Breakfast was left for us in our little dining area.



We left the historic square about 8am.


Coffee at a little cafe as we left town


1952 our birth year - nearly 66 - and not out.


Views of Stia as we left town


5 hours expected time to destination!


 Views towards this amazing site as we climbed


We had a few false starts but found all the hidden walkways eventually


We had to follow this cow for a section


Then,unexpectedly, a 4th - 2nd century BC Etruscan site



The only town today was Lonnano - shop or cafes closed, being Sunday





Looking back to Lonnano


Then we began climbing a narrow, rocky, unshaded track for several kilometres


Mark was affected by the heat


We rested along the way


Pizza and juice for lunch, purchased as the cafe in Stia


It was hot and dry and so unlike any of the terrain we’ve experienced in the last few days


Halfway up the track we encountered a Danish walking group.


We continued up until a main road


We walked for several kilometres on the main road..fortunately it was shaded


We knew we were on the right track when we arrived at the Eremo Hermitage, a Benedictine centre



Then we began our descent to the Monasterio - again several kilometres


At last our destination. A very popular tourist and pilgrim centre.


The eleventh century monastery has been fully renovated. It is the home of the Camaldoli order of monks, who are a hermit order with rudimentary huts in the mountains above here..as well as rooms at the monastery.




Excellent rooms - we have our own room and ensuite. We will have an evening meal and breakfast here as well. €50 pp for dinner, bed and breakfast.


The main courtyard.


A welcome drink at a bar in the monastery precinct 


A very generous communal meal.







We are very tired tonight...Mark has recovered from the heat stress and coped well with a long day’s plod. I am footsore but refuse to contemplate the possibility of blisters - plying my feet with pawpaw cream. Despite all this we are feeling quite buoyant arriving at such an interesting place, set in a lush forest.

Tomorrow is a shorter day.

M&M

Saturday 29 September 2018

SEPTEMBER 2018 : ITALY : VIA DI FRANCESCO : DAY 3 : Consuma - Stia - 17 kms (6 and a half hours)



Day 3 and another beautiful day. Sunny with a breeze.

We were woken to gunshots. It’s the weekend and hunting is a common practice. 


Breakfast at Irina’s cafe


Irina, a wonderful hostess, and ambassador for the Via di Francesco


Her father, Marcello


Their family has owned this business for 5 generations



Leaving Consuma


A small path onto forestry tracks


We set off confidently


Views of distant valleys


We needed to synchronise our guidebook information with our Maps.Me app as there were some hidden tracks




Our first hamlet, Gualdo with no facilities for walkers



We set off on to shaded forest tracks for most of the day


A rest stop


Autumn colours


The convent of Santa Maria della Gracie built in 1432 to mark an apparition of the Virgin Mary


Lunch, provided by Irina, was a welcome respite


Our first sighting of livestock was a donkey farm


Moving into Stia


Crossing the bridge over the headwaters of the Arno



Arriving in Stia - originally a a textile manufacturing centre but now a tourist centre


Our accommodation is in the main square



La Guardia - €50 bed and breakfast 


An 18th century guardhouse - our best accommodation yet!



Federico’s recommendation for tonight 


Very special and popular


Tonight for me - ravioli with prawns


What a great day!
What we have learnt today is two walking poles downhill are best on the slippery slopes!And the value of our Maps.Me app to double check that we are on the right track.

M&M