JULY 2008 : ITALY : Memories of the Via Francigena : San Quirico d’Orcia - Gallina (bus) - Radicofani (23 kms) - Aquapendente

Memories of the Via Francigena July 2008

San Quirico d’Orcia - Gallina - Radicofani - Aquapendente

“Up to date we have all walked about 350kms and only now 130kms to Roma so there is added momentum to our planning. 

Yesterday we were able to organise a taxi from San Quirico at 7am with the help of our Italian pilgrim friends (Lilliana and Luciano) ) to Gallina  (to save llkms of walking time in the heat), which turned out to be the marker for the 43rd parallel. 

Radicofani, our destination, in the distance

We walked from there to Radicofani. Yes, another hilltop town. Impressive to walk towards,like the celestial city but murder to ascend in the heat and when you are hot and tired. Our hostel was a newly renovated house in the town, which the VF run by volunteers. Our hosts were Marco and Luisa from NW of Trieste near the Austrian border. They had brought with them delicacies from their region..cheeses, meats, a light white sparkling wine, grappa and La Grubana, which is a bun with nuts, chocolate and dates. It was like being in an Italian family home for the night. The hostel was just six beds and one bathroom. 

Marco insisted on a foot-washing ceremony before our dinner

Luisa proudly presents us a Slovenian meal

La Grubana - a bun with nuts, chocolate and dates

We had eaten lunch in a local trattoria as we are always famished after walking our 6 or so hours. Tuscan soup — lentils, veal and other meats but not goose as we d had a few days ago — served rare with plum chutney — very nice. 

Radicofani is more famous for its tower and fortress high up on the summit of the town. At the moment for the summer tourist season, they are recreating  a medieval village. The main highlight in Radicofani ‘s history was a battle 450 years ago when the Papal forces attacked the town, under the control of Siena and won. 

Climbing to the top of the town

The view from the top

We left Radicofani at about 6.30 am, after big bowls of coffee and biscuit toast. Italians aren’t big on nutritious breakfasts! Then we headed off down the ridge. The landscape has changed. There are now large expanses of ploughed fields, a bit of light industry in the valleys, a fewquarries, sheep, still sunflowers, more corn and small personal vineyards. We were on a path for half of the time today and then the asphalt road. 

Our first view of Aquapendente

Aquapendente, also on a rocky outcrop, but not as high as some we have climbed this week. The town  rose to prominence in the 10th century as a pilgrim centre for those who could not travel to Jerusalem. The crypt in the duomo houses one of the bloodied stones said to have been at Jesus crucifixion, which also drew pilgrims here. 

The Duomo

The crypt

Dinner

Tonight we are staying at a Cappuccin convent, run by a very friendly group of nuns, which is high up a hillside. It was a bit of a struggle managing the last section with my blistered feet. There is quite a hive of activity as there is a large group of scouts camping on the site as well. The convent itself is not in great condition but the rooms are adequate for us and there is a chance to do our washing and refresh for tomorrow. 

Convent of the Cappuccin Sisters

Tomorrow we walk to Bolsena,which has a huge lake so we hope we will be swimming. We haven t been lost again, which is comforting. Every day here is in the 30s so it is hot for walking but very pleasant in the balmy evenings.”

 M&M