Memories of the Via Francigena July/August 2008
“After leaving Viterbo, Papal seat for 20 years, and centre of some Papal controversies and mysterious deaths, early on Friday morning we took a bus to Vetralla.
We left Viterbo on a 6.15am bus from the impressive stone gate at the northern end of Viterbo’s old town.
Breakfast in Vetralla
We wandered around the town for several minutes trying to local our Via Francigena waymarkers
My take on Italian history
(Here I must interrupt to apologise for my inconsistent spelling and confusion over Middle Ages, Medieval and Renaissance references. Basically, we have discovered that the Etruscan civilation was in its heyday in the 3rd and 2nd centuries BC, early Christian buildings from 7th century, most of the duomos were built in the 12th and 13th centuries, up— graded in the 16th or 19th (after fire and/or earthquake) and then all suffered damage in WW2 - all rebuilt, minus a few frescoes)
We walked from Vetralla to Sutri. Very pleasant, flat (but again hot with the temperature gauge showing 50oC here today. I think that’s a bit of an exaggeration but it is hot. We had a very good foraging day with apples, plums, blackberries, figs and acres and acres of hazelnut orchards, unfortunately too soft for eating. Recently, we found a type of passionfruit with skin like a mandarin, sweet cluster of crimson seeds inside.
Sutri was another wonderful surprise. It has a Roman gateway dating back to lAD, which became known as the French gate as pilgrims used it as one of their last exits for Rome. There were fascinating ruins and amphitheatre in the neighbouring hillside. They were all carved out of rock and became early churches and chamber. Spectacular. Free and in a large reserve.
The town itself, hilltop, of course, with one main piazza. We found a great restaurant — huge mushrooms, excellent meat dishes. We ate in the cool, listening to a mandolin concert, while all the local kids played, old men rested by the large fountain in the centre. It was just a wonderful taste of Italian village life. We stayed in an air-conditioned hotel just off the main piazza, Sutrium Hotel.
Piazza del Commune
Rest stop for lunch
Our recommended hotel
Today, we walked mainly along the highway and have arrived at Campagnano di Roma. As last night we are staying in a small hotel, air—conditioned.
Breakfast at a friendly cafe in Sutri
A brief stopover in Monterosi
Long stretches along the highway
Campagnano di Roma
It was so hot by this stage of the day we were happy to do anything to stay cool and watered.
We stayed at a road side pit stop hotel with air-conditioning
Only 19 kms to walk tomorrow and then we are taking a bus from La Storta. Apparently, it is quite dangerous to walk the last part into Rome. Then we will walk to St Peters to complete the journey properly. “
M&M
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