JULY 2008 : ITALY : Memories of the Via Francigena : Siena - Buonconvento (train) - San Quirico d’Orcia (17 kms)

Memories of the Via Francigena July 2008

Siena - San Quirico d’Orcia 

“This morning we left Siena by train, and it was a short trip to Buonconvento to begin the day’s walk

 We have decided that with only 8 days to go and many difficult contoured hill climbs on the map, that we would fast track to Buonconvento. Again it was a hot day — 34o — and mainly on the asphalt but again the scenery was fascinating, although much drier — wheat mainly. We haven’t seen much wildlife. Lots of little iridescent lizards, a yellow spotted snake, some porcupine quills, the odd squirrel and lots of dogs, barking at us all the way from Switzerland. Atenti al cane..Beware of the dog on every gate post. 

San  Quirico d’Orcia

At about 1 we arrived at San Quirico d Orcia. A small, beautifully presented town on a small hillside. Originally Etruscan but first came into prominence about the seventh century, when the first church was built here. 

Artist’s impression of the hilltop town

We were so appreciative of any shade that we grabbed a table at the first restaurant we came too. Just our luck. What a menu - hare, wild boar, tripe as well as other specialties, fresh pastas etc. 

We have been drinking lots of acqua minerale frizzante as the water in most places down in the southern region has not been all that palatable. In the north there were lots of public fountains for travellers and the water was divine. No fast flowing rivers here as it is very dry. Of course the beer and red wine has been very refreshing too. As have the gelati with favourites this week being fig and nuts and pannecotta. We have also eaten the most delicious fresh figs, actually the fruit on the whole has been fresh and delicious.

 Tonight we stay in another hostel, opened by a volunteer, attached to the church. Bunk rooms with kitchen and bathrooms. Another Italian couple are staying tonight as well. They are from Milan but began the Via Francigena from Canterbury in May. We have organised with them to catch a taxi (tomorrow being Sunday) early tomorrow morning for the first lOkms so that our walk will be more manageable. It is long and with an ascent of 300 metres to another hillside town, Radificone, which promises to be another spectacular stay. Think of us, mainly me, climbing tomorrow..I hope not hobbling, but it comes second nature to me now! We both have striped tans..from sock marks to bottom of shorts and from wrists to elbows..a look we think that might take off.”

Pilgrim hostel attached to church. We attended 6pm mass before dinner

Luciano and Lilliana planning tomorrow’s itinerary with Bob

A few restaurants to choose from in this small town

We chose Ristorante degli Archi

M&M