AUGUST 2008 : ITALY : Memories of the Via Francigena : Campagnano di Roma - La Storta (19 kms) - Rome (train)

Memories of the Via Francigena July/August 2008

“We left Campagnano di Roma early on Monday morning having a quick cappuccino and pastry in the small town. It was another hot day but we walked in the cool on minor roads until about 11 when we reached La Storta, which is on the outskirts of Rome. 

The cool of the early morning 

La Storta - the unofficial end of our walk

By this stage, it was 35oC and we were glad to catch the train to the San Pietro station, which is a few minutes from St Peter’s Square in the Vatican. So we walked in into this magnificent venue to complete our task, our journey to Rome. We felt very pleased that we had accomplished it. In the 947kms we travelled by train, bus, taxi and by foot. We walked 494km. 

Today we went to the Sacristia at the cathedral (what a wonderful place) and collected our last stamp for our credential booklet. 

We are staying at a B&B near St Peter’s. We have a 3 bedroom apartment to ourselves with kitchen. It is in an old building but it is beautifully presented and so convenient to the bus (69) and facilities.

Today we are combining sightseeing (with all the other hot, sunburnt tourists) and shopping (fabulous sales!  I have decided not to buy shoes as I wouldn’t want anyone to see my feet)  I am feeling very satisfied after feasting on such wonderful places, learning so much about Italian history and the impact of the Via Francigena on the regions we moved through, and of course, the food. It has been so fabulous returning after 32 years, when we lived on mortadella and endive as young backpackers and now to be able to sample so many delicacies with such special company. How fortunate are we!”

 M&M

AUGUST 2008 : ITALY : Memories of the Via Francigena : Viterbo - Vetralla (bus) - Sutri (26 kms) -Campagnano di Roma (21 kms)

Memories of the Via Francigena July/August 2008

“After leaving Viterbo, Papal seat for 20 years, and centre of some Papal controversies and mysterious deaths, early on Friday morning we took a bus to Vetralla.

We left Viterbo on a 6.15am bus from the impressive stone gate at the northern end of Viterbo’s old town.

Breakfast in Vetralla

We wandered around the town for several minutes trying to local our Via Francigena waymarkers

My take on Italian history

 (Here I must interrupt to apologise for my inconsistent spelling and confusion over Middle Ages, Medieval and Renaissance references. Basically, we have discovered that the Etruscan civilation was in its heyday in the 3rd and 2nd centuries BC, early Christian buildings from 7th century, most of the duomos were built in the 12th and 13th centuries, up— graded in the 16th or 19th (after fire and/or earthquake) and then all suffered damage in WW2 - all rebuilt, minus a few frescoes)

 We walked from Vetralla to Sutri. Very pleasant, flat (but again hot with the temperature gauge showing 50oC here today. I think that’s a bit of an exaggeration but it is hot. We had a very good foraging day with apples, plums, blackberries, figs and acres and acres of hazelnut orchards, unfortunately too soft for eating. Recently, we found a type of passionfruit with skin like a mandarin, sweet cluster of crimson seeds inside. 

Sutri was another wonderful surprise. It has a Roman gateway dating back to lAD, which became known as the French gate as pilgrims used it as one of their last exits for Rome. There were fascinating ruins and amphitheatre in the neighbouring hillside. They were all carved out of rock and became early churches and chamber. Spectacular. Free and in a large reserve. 

The town itself, hilltop, of course, with one main piazza. We found a great restaurant — huge mushrooms, excellent meat dishes. We ate in the cool, listening to a mandolin concert, while all the local kids played, old men rested by the large fountain in the centre. It was just a wonderful taste of Italian village life. We stayed in an air-conditioned hotel just off the main piazza, Sutrium Hotel.

Piazza del Commune

Rest stop for lunch

Our recommended hotel

Today, we walked mainly along the highway and have arrived at Campagnano di Roma. As last night we are staying in a small hotel, air—conditioned. 

Breakfast at a friendly cafe in Sutri

A brief stopover in Monterosi

Long stretches along the highway

Campagnano di Roma

It was so hot by this stage of the day we were happy to do anything to stay cool and watered.

We stayed at a road side pit stop hotel with air-conditioning

Only 19 kms to walk tomorrow and then we are taking a bus from La Storta. Apparently, it is quite dangerous to walk the last part into Rome. Then we will walk to St Peters to complete the journey properly. “

 

M&M

AUGUST 2008 : ITALY : Memories of the Via Francigena : Lake Bolsena - Montefiascone (18 kms) - Viterbo (17.5 kms)

Memories of the Via Francigena July / August 2008

“We left Lake Bolsena on Wednesday morning early, which was fortunate as it is becoming very warm. It was 25oC at 6am. Now we are walking on flat farm tracks and with some some shady sections.

Leaving Hotel Nazionale, Bolsena

An early start

We skirted Lake Bolsena most of the day, in and out of forest and farmland

Some early foraging - passionfruit

Lake views

Shady sections

Well-earned rest breaks

Last night we stayed in Montefiascone, another fortress town on a steep incline. The town is constructed up the hill with not one flat street, so it was quite a climb on a hot day. I think the town is called ‘fiascone’ because of the traffic. There are quite bizarre traffic arrangements up and around the steep medieval streets. We even saw a car beeping and threatening to run over a nun. No one is exempt from the mayhem.

Montefiascone

An aerial view of Montefiascone overlooking Lake Bolsena

Entering from one of the lower archways

The main piazza

Lunch at an umbrella-ed cafe in the piazza

The Police endeavouring to control the traffic

We stayed at the most beautifully peaceful Benedictine convent, half way up the town.  We were welcomed by another short nun, many have been under 5’, must be one of the stipulations for Italian orders. She was accompanied by an Afro-Italian novice, who was a dead ringer for Whoopi Goldberg. It was a very well-run establishment, everything in excellent condition. We had a dormitory to ourselves, overlooking a courtyard, which was quiet and convenient.

The Benedictine convent

The most significant landmark in Montefiascone was the domed basilica of San Margarita. The basilica is octagonal and is a stunning piece of architecture, despite suffering fire, earthquake and bombing during WW2.

At the summit of the town was a breathtaking park overlooking Lake Bolsena. We were able to find a restaurant close by and ate a delicious meal, savouring the sunset.

The park at the summit of Montefiascone with views over Lake Bolsena

A visitor to the park

Sunset

Today we walked to Viterbo, which was a 4 hour stretch, leaving about 6am to avoid the heat. At about 9am We came across some thermal springs in a small enclosure by the path. It was free entry and we joined the locals who were ‘taking the waters’. With our swimmers always at the ready we had a refreshing soak and respite from the heat. It was definitely more satisfying than our dip in murky Lake Bolsena.

Leaving Montefiascone in the early morning light

Rural scenes

And to our absolute delight - thermal springs!

Reluctantly we set off on the road again

Viterbo is not a hilltop town but has walled fortifications. It is most noted for being the home of the Papal summer palace and it has been the scene for many historical events. It has a fascinating medieval quarter, which could be a film set for a Robin Hood movie.

 Viterbo

We are staying in another air-conditioned hotel, Hotel Tuscia, as it was the first we came across. It doesn’t have charm but it’s very cool!

Evening drinks on the hotel’s roof top balcony with views over Viterbo

Pizza for dinner and a wander through the night markets

We have now walked over 400 kms and have only 80 kms to go. We plan to take an early bus tomorrow to Vetralla and walk from there to another walled town of Sutri, which boasts a Roman amphitheatre. We are keeping cool with daily doses of gelato and acqua frizzante.”

M&M