DAY 12 : FRANCE : CONQUES to LIVINHAC LE HAUT - 24 kms - 6 1/2 hours

Distance walked so far : 226.5 kms

Weather today : fine with breeze : 23o

We spent night at a hotel, enjoying clean sheets, towels and a bath before we set off on the road.

A night in a quaint hotel in Conques

There was no rest for the wicked this morning. At 8 as we set off with 20 or so other walkers, we were confronted with a steep, difficult ascent (walking poles compulsory!) after crossing the bridge from the magical town of Conques. It wasn’t long that as we climbed to a chapel to Sainte Foy and beyond that Conques disappeared into the valley.

Crossing the bridge to begin the next stage of the Via Podensis

 

Last view of Conques

 

We walked along a ridge, stopping in the little village of Noailhac for a drink.

Drink at a cafe en route

 

Toilet sign

 We stayed on the ridge with views of fields of corn, cows and vistas over rolling hills, north and south.

Fields of corn along the ridge

 

Fellow pilgrim, returning from Santiago.
 Two years ago he was in a wheelchair
 and he did the return journey to give thanks for his recovery.

 Despite knowing that many were on the trail, we walked by ourselves for the day. We made a big descent into Decazeville, which had originally the largest open-cut coal mine in Europe, closed 30 years ago. The GR 65 (Grand Randonee), which we are following, then skirted around this large and unremarkable town, and up into the hills behind. Then we descended into the Lot Valley, now the Lot River is much wider than at Estaing.

Tonight we are staying in Livinhac Le Haut, which has a very friendly and organised Gite Communal, where we are spending the night. It is full tonight with French and German-speaking couples and singles. The Gite owner also is the proprietor for the only bar in town, so he has guaranteed business at least from May - October. We have a younger French couple sharing with us and a Belgian fellow, who began walking from Brussels at the end of July.

The well-run communal gite in Livinhac le Haut

 

Another unexpected message. Yes, I take the camera everywhere I go.

 

We had a delightful meal at the bar - salad, duck, chocolate tart. We had 2 engaging Frenchman at our table. We are now the only English-speaking walkers along the trail every day.

Communal meal at bar. Pilgrim meal - 3 course - 16 euros

 We are getting to know some interesting characters. One, we have called Monsieur Poirot, has a fascinating story, which we learnt over our meal. He was working in a bank in Paris and after a hold-up at the bank, took leave. He was disturbed by the robbery, bored with his job and had no alternatives. Being of a religious disposition, he decided to walk the camino to search for an answer to his problem. He walked to Santiago but was none the wiser. He returned to work. Lo, and behold, he experienced another hold-up. The bank suggested that due to the stress of the hold-ups, he would be relieved of his duties on full pension. God works in mysterious ways....

Monsieur Poirot

M&M
14/9/12
PS Happy birthday, James.