“Get your atlases out! The last few days we have been on the move..out of internet access unfortunately so I have a bit to tell you. Mark has proved to be a great navigator and all his preparations are paying off.
After spending a night in Nus we decided that we would travel down to Ivrea about an hour by bus.
We saw the castle in Fénis en route
A Roman bridge in Chambrave, which we passed through as we descended the last leg of the Alps.
Not only do they grow grapes in this northern region but rice is the major crop.
Highlights
Ivrea is a shabby chic town, interesting history surrounding the resistance during the 1930s and 40s. The castle built by the same architect who designed the Bastille was a prison until 1970 — cold and with no facilities.
A welcome lunch near the station in Ivrea
An excellent castle guide with Julie translating
Investigating the town
We stayed (courtesy of our VF accommodation lists) in a canoe club by the river. We had a top shuttered room with clean facilities including kitchen so we were able to make a pasta meal that night. (Enjoying lots of delicious food — pastries, gelato (especially pistacchio) , cheeses, meats)
The canoe club by the river
Dinner in the garden
Our view
The railway station was close to the river so we got up early the next morning and took a train to Fidenza with a short stopover in Milan.
Fidenza is one of the main pilgrim towns that Sigerac Visited in 990—994 and the cathedral has interesting friezes on the outside walls depicting pilgrims and Knight Templars.
Arriving in Fidenza
The pilgrim friezes on the cathedral walls
The main office for the Via Francigena is situated in Fidenza
The Via Francigena office in Fidenza rang a local Cappuccin monastery (on our list) and we stayed there on Monday night. We each had our own cell, bathroom at the end of the corridor and a shared meal at night. We all sat at tables around the periphery of the room while the 5 monks debated philosophical issues rather heatedly. They were very welcoming despite this intense discussion.
We left early, hoping the Brothers weren’t looking out the window as we were catching the train to Fornovo and not walking the next section. The route wasn’t particularly scenic reportedly. We are having to make strategic decisions as we are working in a tight timeframe.
Arriving by train in Fornovo
Now we are on the road again. We walked from Fornovo to Cassia (19 kms), which is tiny town with a Villa hostal run by the VF— perfect. Again shuttered windows overlooking breathtaking valley.
A hot and strenuous effort to our destination in Cassio
High on a hill, having climbed on a hot, cloudless day we found a trattoria for lunch - what a welcome sight!
After our 1500m climb today we were pleased and relieved to arrive at our excellent VF accommodation on the main highway in Cassio.”
Dinner at the only cafe, Salti di Diavolo
M&M
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