Memories of the Via Francigena July / August 2008
“We left Lake Bolsena on Wednesday morning early, which was fortunate as it is becoming very warm. It was 25oC at 6am. Now we are walking on flat farm tracks and with some some shady sections.
Leaving Hotel Nazionale, Bolsena
An early start
We skirted Lake Bolsena most of the day, in and out of forest and farmland
Some early foraging - passionfruit
Lake views
Shady sections
Well-earned rest breaks
Last night we stayed in Montefiascone, another fortress town on a steep incline. The town is constructed up the hill with not one flat street, so it was quite a climb on a hot day. I think the town is called ‘fiascone’ because of the traffic. There are quite bizarre traffic arrangements up and around the steep medieval streets. We even saw a car beeping and threatening to run over a nun. No one is exempt from the mayhem.
Montefiascone
An aerial view of Montefiascone overlooking Lake Bolsena
Entering from one of the lower archways
The main piazza
Lunch at an umbrella-ed cafe in the piazza
The Police endeavouring to control the traffic
We stayed at the most beautifully peaceful Benedictine convent, half way up the town. We were welcomed by another short nun, many have been under 5’, must be one of the stipulations for Italian orders. She was accompanied by an Afro-Italian novice, who was a dead ringer for Whoopi Goldberg. It was a very well-run establishment, everything in excellent condition. We had a dormitory to ourselves, overlooking a courtyard, which was quiet and convenient.
The Benedictine convent
The most significant landmark in Montefiascone was the domed basilica of San Margarita. The basilica is octagonal and is a stunning piece of architecture, despite suffering fire, earthquake and bombing during WW2.
At the summit of the town was a breathtaking park overlooking Lake Bolsena. We were able to find a restaurant close by and ate a delicious meal, savouring the sunset.
The park at the summit of Montefiascone with views over Lake Bolsena
A visitor to the park
Sunset
Today we walked to Viterbo, which was a 4 hour stretch, leaving about 6am to avoid the heat. At about 9am We came across some thermal springs in a small enclosure by the path. It was free entry and we joined the locals who were ‘taking the waters’. With our swimmers always at the ready we had a refreshing soak and respite from the heat. It was definitely more satisfying than our dip in murky Lake Bolsena.
Leaving Montefiascone in the early morning light
Rural scenes
And to our absolute delight - thermal springs!
Reluctantly we set off on the road again
Viterbo is not a hilltop town but has walled fortifications. It is most noted for being the home of the Papal summer palace and it has been the scene for many historical events. It has a fascinating medieval quarter, which could be a film set for a Robin Hood movie.
Viterbo
We are staying in another air-conditioned hotel, Hotel Tuscia, as it was the first we came across. It doesn’t have charm but it’s very cool!
Evening drinks on the hotel’s roof top balcony with views over Viterbo
Pizza for dinner and a wander through the night markets
We have now walked over 400 kms and have only 80 kms to go. We plan to take an early bus tomorrow to Vetralla and walk from there to another walled town of Sutri, which boasts a Roman amphitheatre. We are keeping cool with daily doses of gelato and acqua frizzante.”
M&M
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