Our most challenging day so far!
Our destination today was Bimthang via the dreaded Larkya La Pass.
Up at 2.45am to prepare for our biggest test so far. We left at 4am to ensure a safe passage in calm conditions. Many groups have to turn back if the weather is inhospitable as the waymarkers are not obvious in any other than clear weather.
Conditions were freezing. We had all our wet weather and thermal gear on and special instructions about how to keep our circulation in our hands and feet. Sunglasses for snow blindness. We were given hot water in our containers - Mark's camel back froze within minutes.
We were instructed in walk in line together so that we could walk slow and steady to conserve energy and to appreciate the views. Despite having had time to acclimatise I could only take short, shallow breaths and had a headache. Mark and Glenis were fine. It was a long hard haul and as it was so cold we couldn't stand still for long when having a rest.
Satish's secret weapon Tiger Balm. He gave us all a bottle ostensibly to keep our sinus clear. On further reading the information on the bottle we realised that it is also beneficial "for fast and effective relief of headache, stuffy nose, insect bites, itchiness, muscle aches and pains, sprains and flatulence. Apply gently on effective areas." We're still trying to work that one out!
Sunrise was spectacular. Mt Manaslu's peak in the middle.
All was revealed as we trudged on. 360o panormic views of mountain peaks (Cheo Himal, Ganesh Himal, Southern face of Mt Manaslu and Larkya Peak). Blue sheep and snow leopard paw prints in the snow.
The relieved company at the final waymarker after 4 hours and climbing to 5160 metres.
Then we had to descend. Satish had given us crampons to help us but we had no idea what we were in for. One of the guide books says that walking poles and solid walking boots are essential - but you also need courage, confidence and lots of good luck. The whole descent, which took 3 hours was slippery and dangerous.
There was snow, slippery rocks and wet gravel areas - and no obvious pathway other than previous trekkers footprints, which were not always the most stable way to travel. We slipped and tumbled our way down. Mark was wearing knee supports which prevented serious injury. Satish and Tunka were very attentive and guided us down as best they could. All other trekkers had the same experience. A young German couple struggling down said they saw a Nepalese family calmly walking uphill laden with food including a live chicken poking its head out of a basket.
We were so relieved to reach a solid path. The valley was so different to the Nubri Valley we'd just come from. Huge glaciers and marains, sheer mountain cliffs and just acres and acres of lichened stones.
Along the path Khem had set up a temporary camp to welcome us with hot soup.
After another 2 hour walk along a rocky path we reached Bimthang, which means 'sandy plain' and that's exactly what it looks like. In the past it has been used by Tibetan farmers for grazing yaks in the winter months. When we arrived there were mule teams and lots of activity in the little lodges. Our camp was set up just as the cold weather set in.
M&M
mm_smith@bigpond.net.au
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