Nasim Pati to Panch Pokhari
Day 8: Nasim Pati (3800m) to Panch Pokari (4000m)
Sunrise and we were not disappointed with the view this morning. It seems to be the most spectacular part of the day, so those that prefer to sleep in now take advantage of the early views before the mist descends. Today we enjoyed the view until we left the camp (about 7.45am), sitting outside for breakfast and attempting to dry washing.
The morning's walk was a slim path cut into the mountainside, not along the ridge as in the last week. The trail to Panch Pokhari is well marked - narrow and treacherous in parts - but we walked at our routine slow speed, plodding along together, which means that there is plenty of time to forge the slippery steps and the uneven scree on the way down.
There was only one main named pass en route, Lauribina (3935m), which was marked with an old chorten, a small religious stone structure.
The entry to Panch Pokhari (5 lakes) is distinctive with a colourful sign - A Hearty Welcome - and a large paved pathway down the valley. It must look spectacular when the pilgrims process there in July/ August for the Shiva festival.
As you round another chorten, under construction, there is an amazing (running out of adjectives) site.
U5 small lakes set against snow-covered hills with a small campsite overlooking it. Our porters had already set up camp with our tents facing the lakes.
Satish had told us about the sanctity of the area and the rules governing our stay. Travellers must only use toilets, take all rubbish with them and not use the sacred waters of the lakes for drinking or bathing. All these points have not been strictly adhered to - the most obvious being a series of hoses, which seem to be draining the lakes for personal use. Despite this, the water is beautifully clear and clean.
There is a large Shiva temple nearby the settlement.
Welcome lunch on arrival - soup, vegetables, roti etc. before the weather clouded in and the rain poured down. Our kitchen tent is becoming a games area for the afternoon rest sessions.
A few ventured out into the rain for a walk while the rest of us cuddled up until hot chocolate and coffee time and dinner. There has been a lot of attention to detail about our increasing altitude, map reading and geographical details as we look forward to closer views of the mountains and our encounter with crossing the challenging Tilman Pass.
M&M
8/5/2014
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