Day 14 : Tilman North Base Camp - Numbhang (4000m) on the Langtang Khola (river)
After yesterday's mammoth (others have said gruelling) effort, I was under the impression that the next few days would be a piece of cake. So when Satish announced last night at dinner that it would be another 3.30am wake up call, I was stunned. We camped last night on the moraine and down each side of moraines are heavy unstable rocks, boulders, monoliths, which regularly shift and fall particularly as the sun melts the snow and ice which binds it overnight. It was essential, Satish warned us, that if we weren't out of camp by 5am at the latest we could suffer serious injury by rockfalls. We had our hard hats on at the ready and with instructions to grab your head if you hear the sound of rocks falling. Temperature -5o as we set off.
As I mentioned yesterday the moraine floor is covered in rocks, scree and boulders already, making progress very slow and painful. When Mark and I saw the rocky cliff we had to descend just from the camp we were terrified. Fortunately the overnight snow was still crisp and gave some grip but we both required support from guides, holding hands, more specifically, all the way down. Then we had to cross the moraine floor and we were ordered to move quickly as the sun was rising on the cliff above us. It was a long and arduous process. When we eventually walked beside the river the vegetation was thick and full of pussy willow and spiky scrub.
Down the dangerous section of the moraine but still more excitement to come.
Beauty amongst the chaos
Could it get any more uncomfortable? Fortunately some of our number were more confident and moved on ahead as the less confident of us followed dutifully behind Satish, The next challenge was to find a suitable place to cross the river. We had been told to be organised with extra shoes for the crossing. This took a considerable time and a rope was spread from side to side. It was a combination of boulder stepping stones and walking through the freezing glacial waters. All achieved this without too much drama, other than Karin losing her boots from her pack for a breathtaking few seconds, rescued deftly by Lakpa.
Then, miracle of miracles the path was smooth and earthen and without any obstacles. Yaks were spread on the fields above the river. A gloriously sunny day as we arrived at the campsite, which we are sharing with a herd of curious yaks.
There is a real feeling of exhilaration and jubilation that we have achieved such a strenuous adventure and also that it is over and completed.
The campsite looks like a Chinese laundry. Sunshine brightens the spirit and we've had so little of it. We are delighted that we can at last wash our hair and change our clothes (how many ways to wear a single pair of knickers?) and to wash our clothes. Bob has even gone down to the river to swim!
Fascinated yaks.
Hot lunch and delicious freshly-made vegetable pakoras for afternoon tea.
Few people have colds, windburn and some battle scars from falls but all in all we are in pretty good shape.
Dinner tonight had some thoughtful surprises, apart from a delicious meal. Satish had some wine and rum to accompany our meal, carried in one of the porter's baskets for all of the trip. We have the greatest admiration for the porters who balance their extreme and awkward loads (for us!) down slippery paths, treacherous terrains, across rivers without the support we've had - all with a smile on their faces. Inspirational.
Meg & Mark Smith
14/5/14
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