Tilman Pass (5308m)
Day 13 : Tilman Pass to Tilman North Base Camp
A restless night as it was windy/ snowy and I was concerned it would add an extra level of danger. We were warm in our tent despite camping on snow with treacherous sections outside, which was a strong deterrent to visit the toilet tent during the night, which was built up stones to half a metre - a dilemma -a western or Asian toilet. I decided Western, oops, it was Nepali.
Today was the focus of our trek : crossing the Tilman Pass. It's first documented crossing was by an English adventurer, T.W.Tilman in 1949. His account is fairly dry and to-date it's one of the lesser treks, due to it's remote nature and lack of any villages and accommodation, other than campsites.
Satish arranged for us to have our cup of tea delivered at 3am and hot porridge shortly after in our tents. The slopes and pass are in a more stable condition before sunrise. We left at 4.30am in a positive frame of mind, well-equipped with our hard hats on and the weather improving. We reached a suitable point to put on our climbing harnesses, plastic boots with vicious-looking crampons.
Two of the guides set up ropes up the glaciers and pass. It was quite scary being attached to fixed ropes (jumaring) and roped-up in small groups for some sections. The snow was thick, the ice was slippery and there were small rockfalls as we ascended. Thank goodness we had been issued with helmets as this is always a possibility. My voice echoed throughout the morning with "oh, my God, I'm going to die".We reached the summit at 9.40am with everyone agreeing it was a gruelling climb. Brilliantly assisted by our guiding team.
Porters head off with heavy loads
Jumaring up the pass
Rather scary moment when a few toppled over, sliding down the pass
Victory at last
After eating our packed snack on the slope on the northern side of the pass, we made our way down the massive moraine through soft snow, kilometres of uneven rocks and scree. It was hard going, despite regular rests. Mark and I both have bruises to show of our efforts trying to manoeuvre in the snow and rocky sections. Along the path Satish had organised for our walking boots be returned to make the rest of the journey more comfortable.
Painful journey down the moraine
Perilous sections of deep snow
Neer, one of the kitchen staff, met us about an hour from the campsite with hot cordial and biscuits.
It was a long day as we didn't arrive at our campsite until 3.30 with snow flakes falling. Unfortunately the barren nature of the moraine leaves few camping choices. Lots of tired campers tonight - pleased with their achievements but overwhelmed by the experience.
Meg & Mark Smith
13/5/14
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