Tuesday 26 July 2016

JULY 2016 : SPAIN : CAMINO PRIMITIVO : DAY 2 : Grado - Salas - 21.7 kms - 6 hours

Distance walked : 42.7 kms


                                      

We set off at 7.30 after breakfast in the Autobar Cafe. Misty, humid, top today of 26o.

      

Heading up towards San Juan de Villapañada, we began talking to a Hungarian fellow, George. He is a writer for the TV network, HBO, and is based in Budapest. Very balanced view on the world. He strode off planning to do 30+ kms today.



San Juan de Villapañada was the scene of a major battle during the Peninsular War. Little to show for its glory now.

      

A steep climb into an area called the Cordillera Cantabrica.



                                  

Then the descent to Santa Eulalia de Dóriga. More romantic from a distance as many of the buildings were derelict.


                                             

                                                  Sparrow detail on one of the public fountains.


                                        

Mark was feeling the humidity, which fogged up his glasses and made him more hesitant on the rocky descents, as he tried to protect an aching knee. All in all, not very pleasant for him.



      

 He preservered as we walked towards Cornellana. Major roadworks.

                                 
               
                                    A large kiwi fruit plantation.


                                       

In Cornellana, the next major town, Mark decided to catch a taxi to our destination. I continued on the trail for the next 10 kms. This semi-ruined monastery was founded in 1024.


                                        
                                              
                                                     Garlic plants


                                           

                                               Remnants of the corn harvest.


                                      

The path varied today with some soft sections, very soft in parts, as you can see, to very rocky with large uneven stones to areas of moving scree.


      

       There were some pretty hamlets, with medieval remnants and some beautiful garden plants.


        

             Occasional odours of piggeries wafting in the breeze.


                                     

                                           Winding lanes


       

           Lots of small agricultural plots, with a range of animals and poultry.


        

            Clean flowing streams from the Nonaya River - salmon fishing very popular in this district.


       
         
          I was very pleased to see Mark in the square at Salas, resting his knee.


      

         Lunch in the bar. The castle in the background was granted by Queen Urraca in 1120.
         The town has developed as one of the main supporting stops for pilgrims on this Camino.

                                          
                
                                         We are staying at a private albergue, San Miguel. 10 euros pp.


                                         

      Mark's first challenge was climbing the narrow, rickety stairs...and as luck would have it we are on the top floor.

      
 
Medicated, exhausted, he went straight to bed....and there's no way he's descending the stairs until he has to. There are lots of options tomorrow so that he can rest and evaluate if it is a temporary problem. Fingers crossed!

Already there is much demand for accommodation and is proving wise to book ahead. My Spanish skills must be improving as I've made 4 bookings successfully and only one hung up on me... as I dithered for the right words. Email and booking.com is proving to be the new norm.

M&M

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