Monday 7 September 2015

SEPTEMBER 2015 : ITALY : Amalfi and Pathway to the Gods to Nocelle (2 hours): Day 5



Breakfast served every morning by this friendly waiter.



Today we were supposed to be going on a tour of Capri and the Blue Grotto but I misunderstood the arrangements expecting to be collected from the hotel. Not so and we missed the boat. Thinking quickly to save my marriage and my credibility I suggested we do the Pathway to the Gods walk. We rushed down to the bus and squeezed onto the 10.15am bus to Agerola, a town high in the hills. Another exciting bus ride. All the more exciting today as we were standing for the hectic traffic and hairpin bends.


Fortunately arriving in Agerola there were quite a number of walkers, including this scout group.



This walk has been popular for several decades and is one of the suggested highlights in the travel brochures.



There are several walks in this area but we opted to do the one from Agerola (Bomerano) to Nocelle, a hilltop village up from coastal Positano.


There is a path from the main square in Bomerano, which is well signposted. As we headed off a farmer leading several mules greeted us, reminiscent of Nepal.



Sheep and goats were the next surprises.



Glowing comments about the views on the walk from Italo Calvino and D.H.Lawrence.


                                       

Farmed terraces down the cliffs. Every piece of arable land has been farmed.


                                           

Animal enclosures and storage sheds built into the side of cliffs.


       

The path is well marked but more like a goat track in places.


       

From the outset there were amazing views of the coast. This is the town of Praiano.


      

         The view north.


         

  Remnants of enclosures built to protect locals and refugees from the Saracen invasion.


         

Deep abysses totally unsuitable for development. We heard today that a female walker, wearing only 'flip flops' (thongs), fell to her death here last week. No other details.


      

Most of the walk was fairly flat and through wooded areas.

       


       

Various lizards scuttled across the path and up the rocks as we passed.


                                     

Rather ageing and unstable guard rails as we walked into Nocelle, a hilltop village, 440m above sea level.


                               

Interesting foliage as we walk up the narrow alleyways.


          

Many of the houses in Nocelle are B&Bs. A quiet village but so scenic.


                                 

We found the main restaurant for lunch.


       

Another fabulous find. Delicious and reasonable with unbelievable views.


         

View down the escarpment to Positano from the restaurant.



The highest point on the Amalfi Coast is Monte Sant'Angelo.


      

We were able to catch the 2.45pm bus down from Nochelle with dramatic views of Positano. Here is a Knights' Templar church, dating back to the Crusades. Others prefer to attempt the steep descent for the extra 5 kms into Positwno but Mark preferred to protect his knees.



A mad rush to the wharf and we were able to catch the 3.30pm ferry back to Amalfi. Last ones on the boat.


       

Back in Amalfi we went to the main beach for a refreshing swim. It is a pebbled beach rather than volcanic sand, as in Positano, and there is no pressure to pay for deck chairs or umbrellas. Water is such an inviting temperature.


        

Various craft in the harbour.

        


         

Cheap meal in a small piazza in Amalfi.

        

Main bus station near the port. No bus for an hour so a 20 minute sprint up the hill for a little more exercise!

        

Walking up the hill, past large hotels, we spied this white VW, the bridal car, parked outside the Hotel Miramalfi.

M&M

1 comment:

Wendy & Nick said...

Love it! Classic Italy. A great reward after so many miles of walking.