JULY 2015 : SPAIN : El Camino del Norte : Day 31: Baamonde - Roxica (25 kms - 7 hours with stops)

Distance travelled : 729.8 kms

Distance to go : 79.9 kms

                               

Today was cool, fairly flat walking and quite social as we took advantage of cafes, being warned that there may be a shortage of food today.

                                          

After a few kilometres on the highway after leaving Baamonde we found the 100 kms waymarker.

       

We crossed into an oak forest, over a 14th century bridge. Here with Lena and Caroline, German cousins, who work in the theatre and circus in Germany.

          

             The enchanting 14 th century chapel of San Alberte.

                                

   

                                                 The crucifix outside the church.

        

        It was strange walking through a native forest after so many experiencing eucalypt plantations.

                                     

                                                Some of the wildlife we hoped to see.

      

                Many of the houses, ancient and modern, had attached circular stone ovens.

        

Just off the track at Raposeira was a small albergue and cafe. Just gorgeous. Very Celtic with its stone finish and fixtures. It has an 8 bed dormitory.

       

     We chatted to a Czech girl involved in the organisation of the Prague Fringe festival and a very friendly Frenchman, who has walked from near Paris, having quit his job and sold his apartment to walk and reconsider his options.

                                        

                                               We passed another small albergue in Meson.

        

                                         Another welcome stop and catch up.

       

          We followed the bread van through the villages and then discovered the grocery lady.

         

                                       A herd of cows out for a gourmet lunch.

                                      

                                                     A small horreo for storing grain.

          

        After an interesting morning passing through villages we moved on to a rocky plateau.

         

           It was a long boring stretch.

         

                   Then back on the tarmac for the last hour or so. 

         

Some pelegrinos resting. There were not many albergues along the way, so some people opted to walk the full 40 kms from Baamonde to Sabrado dos Monxes.

     

We were lucky to get two beds at Casa Roxica, a small 11 bed albergue in a tiny hamlet. This was recommended to us a few days ago and we were able to pre-book. This means we only have 15 kms tomorrow to our destination. 10 euros and 7.50 euros for dinner.

       

Fabulous haven on the highway for the many walkers passing. The owner has a shop, bar and accommodation and manages the crowds with great skill.

         

            The dormitory. It has 3 bathrooms, washing facilities (washers and dryers) and a small dining 

             area. I am so pleased that we could get a reservation, otherwise Mark would have 

            considered walking the full 40 kms in one hit, which would have put a lot of added

            tension in our relationship..

         

      A lovely meal, cooked by our hostess, with good company and some wonderful translators.

M&M

JULY 2015 : SPAIN : El Camino del Camino : Day 30 : Vilalba - Baamonde (20.9 kms - 5 1/2 hours including stops)

Distance travelled : 704.8 kms

Distance to go : 104.9 kms

Perfect Camino experience day. We are sleeping so well and enjoying the cooler walking days.

 We are loving walking on more flat paths through farms with the company of so many pelegrinos of different nationalities...and more frequent bars /cafes. 

We were able to order breakfast this morning, including freshly squeezed orange juice. What a great albergue with washers, dryers, great internet. A large noisy family group came in late but as soon as the lights were out at 10.30pm there was absolute silence.

                                         

                                                               Leaving Vilalba.

         

                Beautiful stone houses.

       Out into the countryside..

      

           By the river....

        

               Medieval bridges....

                                        

                                                    Guard dogs. ... and cats at every turn...

          

                 Hay harvesting and beautiful cottages..

        

              More highly- decorated cemeteries.

         

   Coffee breaks. I met up with Mark here. I was originally walking in front of him, day dreaming, and missed a vital turn. Suddenly I realised that there were no Camino signs after a few kilometres, so I backtracked, found the correct path up the side of an old building and hurried on in case Mark might be distressed (or out of his mind with worry) at my absence. Not a bit, he didn't even notice, he'd been happily taking photos .....another chapter in Divorce in the Camino..

                                              

                                     

     

                                              Popular cafe decorations in this part of the world.

         Not much wildlife in these parts. Some blame it on the non-native eucalyptus forests.

           

           Still more medieval bridges.... this one is the notable Saa bridge, built with thick slabs of slate.

         

              Wood-stacking another popular past-time on Galician farms

       

           

                                      Yet another cafe - we entered despite the name.

           

   We were bemused by this road sign - only 568 kms to San Sebastián by road and it has taken us over 700 kms by foot!

        

         Mark never misses an opportunity to remind me that he is a Casanova...

          

        

           A few stretches on the highway...

        

       The public albergue in Baamonde - 6 euros - absolutely divine building with slate decoration.

       We just arrived before it began to rain. More forecast for tomorrow.

        

        

We have been travelling with someone of these walkers for over week. Many Germans and some very friendly Spanish students. Many are self-catering, unlike us who sample every bar and restaurant possible. (4 euros for breakfast, 10 euros for a menu del Dia, 3 courses with wine and bread.

                                         

                                  A splendid building with several bunk rooms and recreation areas.

                               

                                     The view from our bunks. You've got to love double-glazing.

       

                          Lunch at a typical Galician restaurant.

              

        

               Great atmosphere.

                                 

     Galician coffee with (probably home-brewed) Cognac. I will sleep well tonight...and this afternoon.

                                       

                                          Coffee and cognac served with ceremonial presentation.

       

The church of Santiago de Baamonde. Gothic 14 th century. The forecourt is made up of 3 crosses and an oak tree to the right, with a chapel and creatures carved on to it.

       

           A pelegrino.

                                          

                                                     All carved by a local artist.

       

There is a house museum (unfortunately closed today), which was originally the home of the acclaimed sculptor, Victor Corral, whose works feature in the garden.

     

                                         

Another comfortable and enjoyable walk today. We are loving the simple routines, the company and small town hospitality.

M&M