Thursday 9 October 2014

OCTOBER 2014 : VIETNAM : Days 11 &12 : Mai Chau (near Hoa Binh)

      

Weather : sunny, hazy and warm, 30o

We left our hotel in Hanoi about 8.30 and headed south- west of the city up into the mountains to Hoa Binh for about 3 hours. Most of the trip was passing through small towns and farmland, mainly rice growing and sugar cane. The scenery changing as we left the city.

        

We had two stops, one at a roadside cafe, where there were remedies on sale, like this lizard wine.

                                       


And the other was at a mountain pass where there were foodstalls. John shouted us to freshly cooked corn on the cob and corn broth, drunk like tea.

                                

                               

Our homestay is in a village near the little town of Mai Chau. Lonely Planet says it can be too sanitised a tourist experience and we can concur with that but I'd prefer to say it's a refined operation. We are in a village of houses on stilts, which have become like compounds as families have grown. The huts are like dormitories with eating downstairs. We are surrounded by rice paddies and a sea of green. Fortunately tonight we have the very spacious and cool hut all to ourselves, with a young French couple in the adjoining one. Huge mosquito nets to cover the beds, although insects are not a problem.

                                      

       

The villagers are of Thai descent and have interests in agriculture, hand weaving and tourism. It is certainly an idyllic place to retreat to from the hustle and bustle of the city. We had a walk through surrounding villages, perusing handiwork, rice harvesting, villagers fishing, playing badminton and volley ball. Many of the houses are built over a pond and breed fish. Pigs, cows, chooks and ducks abound - with buffalo feeding in the fields.

                                     

        

Even kangaroos...

        

         

House with own fish-breeding pond.

          


                                   

                                   


Catching small fish in the river.

         

Rice wine is very popular, distilled in these pots.

      

About 4 pm all work stopped and everyone was out playing soccer, Badminton, marbles and volleyball. Men and women, old and young.

       

       
        

Dinner included meat and rice steamed in a bamboo tube.

        

After dinner we were treated tol dancing and music of White Thai and H'mong people, performed by the locals. Very relaxed with dogs and children intermittently walking across the performance. And rice wine to sample.

      

       

John took us, with a guide from the Mai Chau Lodge, to local limestone caves, Mo Huong Caves. One chamber was huge, with dry limestone formations. It was quite warm in there. The Vietnam Minh stored ammunition there during the French and Vietnam wars. The guides spent most of the time shining their torches in all the nooks and crannies searching for the two resident pythons. A lucky day if you see them, but no, not today. A lucky day for us as I was terrified.

     

Some of the insects and plants we saw along the path.



                              

       

All in all a very pleasant experience. Some itineraries go further into the mountains where a variety of minority groups live all with their colourful culture and traditions. But no time for us, a quick night in Hanoi tonight before we head to the coast.

Dinner at the Metropole Hotel in the French Quarter with friends, Shane and Kristin.

       


M&M
9/10/2014

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

You've excelled yourself with the photography Mark. National Geographic will be knocking at your door...JulieJ