Friday 12 October 2012

DAY 5 : SPAIN : PAMPLONA to PUENTE LA REINA - 24.1 kms - 7 hours

Total distance walked in France and Spain so far : 848.3 kms

Weather : 14o and wet, foggy until 11 am and then sunshine - downpour at 5 pm


Our route today including climbing over the pass at Alto del Perdon

Today was my day of reckoning - facing the beast. In 2006 when Mark and I first walked part of the camino we began in Pamplona. We were not as experienced then or fit and when I set off with ill-fitting boots by midday my feet were covered in blisters..and there began 4 weeks of great discomfit.(You may remember St Margaret of the Perpetual Blister.) Today was a totally different story. Fitter, lighter, with roomy boots, I thoroughly enjoyed today but it did have it's moments. Rain set in quite early after we set off. But it's not the rain that is the problem - remember the adage, 'it's not the weather, it's the clothes' - we are prepared for anything. No, the worry is the mud than ensues after a downpour. We were not disappointed in that department!

Many pelegrinos starting off in the rain.
Poncho sales in Pamplona must have been at a peak
yesterday as many walkers were unprepared for wet
weather.
 
The muddy path up to Alto del Perdon
 
Then the fog set in....
 
One of the significant points of the camino,
the sculpture on Alto del Perdon of pilgrims
heading westwards towards Santiago.

Down the rocky path...
 
 
In the afternoon the showers and fog cleared to a beautiful clear day. Walkers were able to enjoy the occasional bars, restaurants and picnic areas for rests and food.

Out came the sunshine...with clear views to surrounding towns.
 
Shells led us through a small village..bit like a treasure
hunt everywhere we go..following yellow arrows,
and scallop shells
 
The church in the lovely little town of Osbanos.
Inside is the scull of William, Duke of Aquitaine,
 who killed his sister, Felicia, for not returning to
  court duties after walking the camino. He was so
filled with remorse at his actions that he gave up
his title and property and lived in poverty ina
 hermitage of Arnotegui, just outside the village.
 
 
Our destination today was Puente La Reina, another significant town on the Camino, as several of the northern routes cross through here. We are staying in a communal albergue run by the local Catholic church. 4 euros. It is full tonight. We find the facilities very adequate. We are sleeping well. One main problem is getting our clothes dry...and that may be a continuing problem as the rain is expected to continue for the next few days.


The pilgrim bridge in Puente La Reina, donated by Dona
Mayor,the wife of King Sancho 111, to support the safe
 movement of medieval pilgrims.
 
Municipal albergue, which is a monastery hostel run by
the Padres Reparadores. 4 euros. 10 dormitories full tonight.
 
 
Gardens of the albergue.
 
We really enjoyed a meal at a friendly bar/restaurant last night. It was nourishing and very reasonably priced - and appreciated after an eventful day.

M&M
11/10/12

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