DAY 25 : SPAIN : HOSPITAL DEL ORBIGO to ASTORGA - 16.2 kms - 4 hours

Distance walked so far in France and Spain : 1252.8  kms (59 days)

Weather : frosty and clear : 10o

Today we walked to Astorga. One of the main towns
on the Camino de Santiago. It is a sophisticated town
of a population of 12,000.
with a fascinating Visigoth, Roman and Medieval history.

 

 

We left Hospital del Obigo about 7.30 at dawn.

 

A cold, clear morning and a spectacular sunrise.
 

 

A comfortable walk with some interesting diversions on
the way. A 'hippy' fellow had set-up a coffee/ tea stand
for walkers - donation only. He even had 'Women's Health'
tea amongst his collection - probably for agro females.
 

 

Our first sight of Astorga, with the cathedral at its centre.

 

Impressive shopping precinct -
a feast for us after small towns
with very few outlets.
Tomorrow is a national holiday
for All Saints' Day so we are so
pleased to be able to enjoy the
facilities and sights today.

 

Town clock in the Plaza Mayor
The characters are in traditional
dress of Maragato. Some suggest
that these people were descended
from the Berber tribe with the invasion
of the Moors.

 

The Bishop's Palace designed by Gaudi at the beginnng
of the 20th century. The bishop did not approve of his
elaborate and unconventional taste and refused to move in
 so it is now a museum  dedicated to the history of the Camino.
 There is even  a book from a 17th century albergue with
comments from pilgrims.





 

Roman ruins unearthed and on public display.
Mosaic work of particularly good quality
 

 

Cathedral Santa Maria - 15th century
A combination of Gothic and Romanesque
We were impressed with the immense height
and visited the cathedral museum with
its treasures of robes, paintings,sculptures
 and ornate communion vessels.

 

Locals celebrating halloween.

 

We are staying in the large municipal albergue in a
4-bed room - bright, airy and convenient, all for 5 euros.
Our washing has been washed and dried for 6 euros. Bliss.
We are enjoying our day in such an interesting and engaging town.


 

M&M

31/10/12

Our email : mm_smith@bigpond.net.au 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

DAY 24 : SPAIN : VILLAR DE MAZARIFE to HOSPITAL DEL ORBIGO - 15.1 kms - 3.5 hours

Distance walked in France and Spain so far : 1236.6 kms (58 days)
Weather : misty rain, cold : 10o

Tomorrow we head towards Astorga

 

We walked on tracks today past farmers harvesting corn
and sugar beet. The Picos mountains in the distance.

 

Report of snow in the Picos mountains yesterday.

 

Our destination today was Hospital del Orbiga.
It has an imposing medieval bridge dating back to 13th
century, but was built over a Roman construction, when
it was useful for the transport of cattle for trading.
It is  especially famous for a jousting tournament held
here in 1434, when a knight, Don Suero de Quinones,
scorned by a beautiful lady, dared any knight to pass
over it and defeat him. He defended the bridge for a
month successfully and then proceeded to Santiago
to give thanks for his success.

 

The history of Puente de Orbigo

 

While some of us decided to stay on in Hospital del Orbigo,
others of our group, with whom we've been travelling since
the beginning of October, walked on to Astorga today. We
hope to meet up again.

 

 

Our albergue is run by a German confraternity.
Unfortunately, Albergue San Miguel, a modern, cleaner
hostel has already closed for the season.

 

 

M&M

30/10/12

Our email : mm_smith@bigpond.net.au

 

 

 

 

 

DAY 23 : SPAIN : LEON to VILLAR DE MAZARIFE - 22.2 kms - 6.5 hours

Distance walked in France and Spain so far : 1219.5 kms (57 days)

Weather : cold and clear : -1 degrees at 8.30 am and 12o maximum

We walked from Leon today

No sleeping bag, no blankets and single sex dormitories - this was not one of the scenarios we were prepared for. Fortunately the Benedictine monastery was well heated, I borrowed Mark's sleeping sheet for a double layer and dressed warmly. Now we are ready for any situation!

Very cold walking out of Leon, as we joined the local population going to work and school, in their coats and winter gear. It was a crystal clear day and very comfortable walking, when the sun streamed along the road. It was a flat walk, in fact today was the tail-end of the Meseta - the vast plain we've been travelling along for the last 8 days.

-1 degree as we left the city

 

We walked past a parador, 5 star (state-owned) hotel.
This one was originally a modest pilgrim hospital of
12th century but renovated and embellished by King
Ferdinand with sculptures and pilgrim motifs.

 

One of the towns on the outskirts of Leon.

 

Walking our last section of the Meseta

 

A scene of village life

 

Paloma (pigeon) breeding for local restaurants

 

 

Our destination today is a small town, Villar de Mazarife. We are staying in a well-presented albergue, with double rooms available, of which we've taken advantage. Always refreshing to have linen and towels provided...and 10 points for a westward-facing clothes-line.The hospitalero also provides an evening meal and breakfast, which is a bonus.



San Antonio de Padua Albergue in Villar de Mazarife

Carlos prepares the paella

 

A happy meal by the fire

 

M&M

29/10/12

mm_smith@bigpond.net.au

 

DAY 22 : SPAIN : MANSILLA DE LAS MULARS to LEON - 18.6 kms - 4.5 hours

Distance walked so far in France and Spain : 1197.3 kms

Weather : cold and clear with first frost of the season. -1o - 12o (End of daylight saving)



Destination today : Leon

Breakfast - delicious pastries at a bar in Mansilla.
The end of daylight saving today so we walked in full
daylight from 8 am.

 

First frost of the season. We walked in fairly flat
country until the industrial outskirts of Leon

 

First glimpse of Leon cathedral.
Leon has a population of 130,000. It was originally the base
of the Roman V11 legion, hence the name Leon. It has been
subject to Barbarian and Muslim invasions and in the 10th
century was the seat of the monarchy and the home to many
emerging noble families of northwestern Spain.

 

Friendly locals helping us to find the
cathedral precinct when we lost our way.

 

 

 

The albergue is a Benedictine monastery.
It is in the Plaza de Santa Maria del Camino.
We found some sunny cafes outside the
walls to warm up with a cheap, delicious
lunch.

 

132 beds in male and female dormitories.
Great heating!

 

Interesting architecture around the plaza.

 

The Gothic cathedral (Pulchra Leonina)
was built in the 13th and 14th centuries and
is most famous for its 1800m stained glass
windows. Unfortunately, being Sunday it
was closed but we were able to attend a
6 pm mass and have a peep inside.

 

Leaving mass walking through the cloisters

 

 



M&M

28/10/12 

DAY 21 : SPAIN : HERMANILLOS DE LA CALZADA to MANSILLA DE LAS MULAS - 24.5 kms - 6.5 hours

Distance walked in France and Spain so far : 1178.7  kms

Weather : cloudy, windy : 12o

Our destination today : Mansilla de las Mulas

Desayuno at the Via Trajana Albergue
Wonderful host and accommodation
 

We set off today on a Roman road that has been intact for 20 centuries.
 It was built to transport gold from Gallaecia to Rome.  It was also used by
Caesar Augustus in his campaigns against the Cantabrians 
 and Charlemagne in his battles to gain supremacy over the
  Iberian peninsular. Today it is the most complete section of the
 Calzada de los Peregrinos, the original Pilgrim Road.

 

We had views today of the Cordillera Cantabrica (an
extension of the Pyrenees) and the Picos de Europa -
with the highest peak at 2,648 m.





A long, straight stretch with no shade, water or towns

It was windy. Claudia prepared for the
worst - all she needed was a camel to
complete the picture.

The welcome sight of the entry to
Mansilla de las Mulas with its 12th century
fortifications. A town of 1900 people.

The Municipal Albergue is in the centre of
the town

 

Good facilities and very popular tonight.

Dinner at a local cafe. Mark had a house speciality -
Brie rolled in ham and lightly fried and served with a
sweet sauce. Delicious.

M&M
27/10/12





DAY 20 : SPAIN : TERRADILLOS DE LOS TEMPLARIOS to CALZARDILLA DE LOS HERMANILLOS - 26.9 kms - 6 hours

Distance walked in France and Spain so far : 1154.2 kms

Weather : showery, mist clearing to a sunny cool day : 12 o






 

We passed through Sahagun today to reach Calzadilla
de los Hermanillos



It was showery this morning but quite pleasant walking.
The second town we entered, San Nicolas del Real Camino,
had bodegas (cellars) dug into the hills. Not only used
for storing wine but used as a workshop.

 

Despite the drizzle it was a good day's walk. The colours
 were really heightened - dark browns, vibrant yellows of
the Poplar trees.

We passed through Sahagun and the
impressive Arco San Benito, population of 170,000.
It is a sizeable town for this region. It has a history back
to Roman times and it was also a target for Arab invasions.

We found a lovely cafe for an early lunch of a cheese and
ham bocadillo. Here is Mark adjusting his pants - yet again-
after all the weight he has lost. He is looking trim and
terrific. Sadly, all my clothes fit perfectly - cruel, when you
think that I'm doing twice the number of steps he is, with
my shorter legs.

The owner of the cafe and patisserie kept bringing us
delicious treats to sample.

High fashion on the camino - Irish-style -
and he probably hasn't washed those
sexy shorts - ever!

Leaving Sahagun on the Puente Canto. This was originally a Roman
bridge. The Poplar trees in the background are known as The Copse
of Charlemagne's Lances. Legend has it that the lances of his army
turned to saplings after they were planted in the earth there. An ominous
sign to the forthcoming battle with the Moors which was to litter the area
with corpses.
 

A long and monotonous walk by flat farmland fields.
Unlike yesterday, when we walked in a group, today we
didn't see many people and walked by ourselves.

 

Suddenly a glimpse in the distance of church towers and
the promise of a town nearby.

 

Our destination today was the small town of Calzada de
los Hermanillos, which was originally built by the monks,
The Little Brothers of the Road, who welcomed pilgrims.
We have decided to stay in a private albergue that has
double rooms with bathroom (35 euros) and has a restaurant attached.
Luxury....
 

 



 M&M
26/10/12