Day 7 : ENGLAND : Orton to Kirkby Stephen

We rated our B&B 5 stars and the day got better and better when we heard that the BBC weather announced that, at last, the English summer has arrived with a fine forecast for the next few days. A wonderful day to set out onto Orton Fell and beyond to Kirkby Stephen (6 hours).

We have been so impressed with the generosity of local farmers who permit walkers to cross their fields and commons. As we walked along today, a farmer driving his tractor drove to a gate, which Julie opened to allow him through, he was so grateful he got out and chatted to us. Bob found this was the perfect opportunity for a 20 questions session and asked him about the age of the stone fences, the breeds of sheep, the price of lamb, the use of the common land etc. He relished the chance to chat to us.






Our many and varied constant companions

 It was relatively flat walking today. There were several remnants of old lime kilns. There were many lime pavements or outcrops, which we passed by today, which have been dug up and burnt to secure lime wash for rendering houses in days gone by. The guidebook pointed out some important archaeological sites (Severals Village settlement), which haven’t been fully excavated yet near some of the limestone outcrops in Smardale Fell. They believe that this was one of the most important prehistoric sites in Britain – in fact, the Manchester of the prehistoric north.

Limestone outcrops near the prehistoric site of  Several Village settlement

Smardale Bridge

Many walkers picnicked down near the Smardale Bridge. Nearby was the impressive Smardale Gill Viaduct along a former railway line. All combined to make a fascinating walk.

Smardale Gill Viaduct

We arrived in Kirkby Stephen, an important tourist town in Cumbria. We passed interesting houses – with the customary glassed conservatories (some company is making a fortune on these as most houses in the north have them attached to their homes).



The obligatory conservatory

 Our B&B is an old home in the heart of the town, run by a young couple, and decorated in grand style

The Old Croft House

We had a walk around the town, visiting the historic church, originally a Saxon church, which has a list of clergy dating back to 1220. It is now a joint facility of the Church of England and Catholic churches, which is very fitting as the history of the church is valuable to both traditions.The most interesting feature is an 8^th century Loki (Norse god) Stone, carved by the Vikings.There is also a tomb of a knight in the chapel, whose main claim to fame was killing the last wild boar in England - he has one of the boar's tusks buried with him. The other is on display in the church.

 Bob found some wild raspberries which we foraged on a local walkway – delicious.



Fresh raspberries along hedgerows



For a change this evening our host recommended a local Indian restaurant, which many walkers also enjoyed – a break from our limited pub menus of the last week. 

M&M

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Mango Tree Indian Restaurant