Today we had a day’s sightseeing in Palermo.
We arrived at sunrise on the overnight ferry from Sardinia. We walked from the port to our hotel - 40 minutes, gaining an interesting impression of Palermo.
Our hotel, Hotel Palermo Quattro Canti, is a modest modern hotel right in the centre of the old town. Excellent reception and air conditioning. In time for breakfast on the rooftop terrace with stunning views of the Palermo skyline.
We booked on a 7 day Cosmos tour of Sicily. A group of 46 - Australians, Kiwis, Canadians and Americans. Friendly group led by an Italian guide Francesco.
At 9am a local guide took us on a half hour orientation of the city. We saw the Opera House, the main theatre, villas ( mainly of English families involved in the Marsala trade) and the entry gate from the port, Porto Felice.
Mount Pellegrino is the main backdrop of the city with the Monreale Abbey - a major pilgrimage point.Then we began a walking tour to sites quiet close to our hotel, confirming it was a convenient, central hotel.
First Piazza Bellini. Two Norman (French) churches, Matorana and San Cataldo, both UNESCO heritage listed. Both Christian but influenced by Byzantine craftsman.
We all have earphones so it is easy to listen to the guide’s commentary and be oblivious to the other tourists.
Across the piazza is the Church of Santa Caterina. A plain facade but a stunning Baroque, Rococo and Renaissance interior. Built in 1566.
Caterina, a beautiful girl born in 4th century Alexandria. A Christian, who was desired by the Roman governor. She spurned him and refused to revert to the Roman pagan practices, she was tortured on a wheel but miraculously survived, giving her sainthood status. The governor had her beheaded.
The church was a Dominican nunnery for centuries. There were 900 nuns in the cloisters at its height. Wealthy families would give their daughters and considerable dowries, even adding their family crests to the marble decorations on the pillars. Nuns from aristocratic families would have special privileges like their own cell and other nuns cleaning and washing for them.
Once they gave their final vows they never left the cloisters or saw their families again.
They had formal prayer times every three hours but never were even seen by the presiding priests.
The cloisters, now house a successful patisserie, with traditional recipes from the now defunct convent. One of the cakes is called The Virgin’s Breast, as you can see in the photo.
We continued to walk down Via Vittorio Emanuel, through Quattro Canti, the centre of the old town. We enjoyed the shops and tourist hype.
Even an international nativity store.
On the Piazza Quattro Canti there are represented on the four corners: the four saints of Palermo, the four kings of Palermo and the four seasons.
The main cathedral in a large attractive piazza.
It was built in 1184 by the Normans as a reconverted Christian church on the site of a Muslim mosque.
The cathedral still has a pillar with a verse from the Koran from the the 9th century. The cathedral is dedicated to Santa Rosalia who grew up in Palermo in the 12th century. She lived in a cave on Mount Pellegrino as a hermit but has been attributed for healing people and saving Palermo from the plague and was invoked during the COVID epidemic. Her relics are in this chapel. She is also the patron saint of Sicily.
Finally we walked through a palm garden, saw the royal palace and the city gate - Porto Nuovo.
A surprisingly delicious lunch near the cathedral. Eggplant parmigiana and a meat and cheese plate and my first lemon granita.
At 5pm a few from our group had organised a visit to a local palazzo near our hotel. A lot going on as we walked through Quattro Canti.
Our destination Palazzo Speciale Raffadali.
The prince, Bernardo Raffadali greeted us and showed us through the palace/villa.After which we had gelato and a drink.
His main claim to fame is that Stanley Tucci presented part of his Italian food and culture program in the palazzo.
So many choices for dinner but we were happy with our selection down a side street off Via Vittorio Emanuel.Seafood risotto and a mixed meat plate.
A lively summer evening - wonderful atmosphere!
M&M
