SEPTEMBER 2022 : FRANCE : Toulon - Lyon

And now to Francia..

Alcudia - Toulon



Corsica ferry - €25 pp - 15 hours

First impressions - large and modern

Lots of passengers travelling with cars and motorbikes



And dogs - where will they sleep and do their business!

Swish reception and fittings

A real cruise feel



And a dog zone … encouraging..



This is going to shock many of you - but may not surprise some, knowing our 50 years of budget backpacking..

I booked the basic fare - options for a range of cabins available, which of course was where  most people stayed.

We were directed to Level 8 where all the conference rooms are - a bit more upmarket than expected - armchairs, couches, reclining seats maybe we thought..

Then we opened one door, peering into the darkness, and found a huge empty space with people camped on the carpeted floor .. and with a few dogs! Dogs stayed in all the cabins or wherever their owners had booked.

We found a space with power point to re-charge our phones and slept amazingly well. Loos close by. Everyone slept soundly and only one minor yelp during the night.

Sunrise

First in line for fresh pastries and coffee

Cruising..

Another bonus - due to bad weather overnight our arrival in Toulon has been delayed to 3.30pm, which means only an hour wait for our train.

Spectacular day on the Med - 27o

Preparing to disem-bark!

Views of the harbour and a quick run through Toulon to the station (20 mins)

Piano for public use at the station

Express train to Lyon - 2 hours

So pleased we pre-booked on-line - 8 double decker carriages fully booked.

Lacklustre budget hotel in Lyon but it’s central and has a kitchen and plenty of space. In the centre of restaurant district and we’ll see what else tomorrow! This is only a transit stop before travelling to Le Puy on Wednesday and beginning the Robert Louis Stevenson Trail on Thursday.

Italian meal around the corner

Now for a good night’s sleep!

M&M

SEPTEMBER 2022 : SPAIN : Mallorca : Alcudia

Cool morning. A leisurely breakfast.

Market stalls down the main thoroughfare.

I imagine many tourists from the Port are spending the day here with the change in the weather. Bus loads from Palma.



An enormous market spanning the town’s plazas and main streets 

I did succumb and buy 2 bananas - and two dresses - essential purchases!

We managed to find a table in a courtyard restaurant and have a mixed tapas plate for lunch. Tables at a premium.

Taxi to the ferry terminal. Lots of waiting until our ferry at 21.45. Just found an Indian cafe to while away some of the time near the terminal at the port, with Laver Cup on the TV.

I’ve downloaded two books as we have 15 hours on the ferry and then a 5 hour wait for our train from Toulon to Lyon tomorrow.

Hallelujah we have dodged the rain so far!


M&M

SEPTEMBER 2022 : SPAIN : Mallorca : Alcudia

Rain overnight and the main square was very quiet this morning. We had breakfast at a family restaurant, fiercely proud of their long history in the town.

Relieved that there was no sign of rain, as predicted, we decided to walk to the Port. 20 minutes down a laneway called Cami del Teatre Romana.



We discovered the site of the Roman city of    Pollentia. It was founded in 300BC and was considered a major centre of the Roman Empire.

It is a very low-key site with minor signage but incredible that after 2300 years that so much has survived.

 


Another surprise - the size and activity at the Port. The sand spreads around the southern section of the bay. Beautiful sandy beaches and clear, clean, still waters. Very relaxed and family friendly - none of the charges and tourist infrastructure like at Italian beaches.

Lots of activity on the water and in the cafes bordering the beach.



Bocadillos for lunch in a traditional bar a few streets back from the main tourist area.

This afternoon I booked a boat trip for us around the bay to the Cape of Menorca and around to the spectacular rock formations of Coll Baix.

Then the boat stopped so we could swim for twenty minutes on the way back to port.

Back in Alcudia, while sitting sipping in a courtyard cafe for pre-dinner drinks, we heard some commotion in the main thoroughfare through the town. The locals were out in full with music and characters from their past parading through the town. Such spirit, joy and sense of community. It was wonderful!

After last night’s feast we couldn’t resist eating in the hotel restaurant again - tonight lamb chops, sea bass, burrata salad and pannacotta.

We are so sad to be leaving Spain, particularly Mallorca. The weather forecast for France is looking very wet. Thank goodness we have the gear! Another adventure!

M&M

SEPTEMBER 2022 : SPAIN : Mallorca : Alcudia

Palma to Alcudia

After breakfast, we took a taxi (rank near our hotel) to Plaza de España which is in the business district and transport hub. We caught a direct bus to Alcudia on the northern coast. An hour trip for €9 pp.

We know nothing about this area except about the spectacular coastline and beaches.

The impressive town arch sparked our interest.



Arriving before check in time we had a light lunch across from our hotel, just minutes from the bus stop.

Our boutique hotel a total surprise as it is very reasonably priced.

Gorgeous decor



Our very comfortable room

Only negative is we are on the second floor and no lift

Hot today 32o as we investigated the old town. Plenty of shady plazas and courtyards.

Excellent shopping opportunities!



Down one alley way we discovered the town wall. Only 1.5kms left of it but it used to encircle the whole town. It was built in 1300 by James 11 to protect the population from invading pirates.

From the wall, good views to the port and of the church of St Jaume (14th century)



Dinner in the hotel restaurant. The best so far.

Beef tenderloin

Grilled tender Mallorcan octopus

Goats cheese, anchovy, tomato salad

Staff all young Moroccans - delightful

M&M

SEPTEMBER 2022 : SPAIN : Mallorca : Palma

Early breakfast

Not wanting to miss out on any aspect of the island we booked an island tour today.



We met at a common meeting point on the docks near the cathedral. By common, I mean we soon realised this was a very popular tour - and there were many tours doing it.

From the start I have to say this was a brilliantly organised day. Seamless, no fuss and really showcased the north-west of Mallorca.

First we were taken for a 20 minute bus ride to a tiny station which is the initial start of the Soller train line. An iconic train built in 1912 and features in many movies and documentaries. A must go for me. The train took 45 minutes through sparse olive and citrus farms. We went through several extensive tunnels and we were dwarfed by amazing rocky peaks.



The train stopped high up in the mountains for a view of Soller down in the valley. Then we descended into Soller and transferred to an old tram which took us to the port, Port Soller. A picturesque seaside town.

At Port Soller the hordes of passengers were guided from our tram to a waiting ferry.



The one hour boat trip took us north along the high rocky coastline to Sa Calobra, a small cove with restaurants, a beach and views of the amazing geological features.

Standard tourist lunch fare but pleasant swimming and walking paths.



Then we boarded buses and climbed 13 kms up a winding road with exciting hairpin bends, extremely narrow in parts. It demonstrated again the rocky inhospitable landscape.

Still in the mountains we visited the Sanctuari de Lluc. The chapel here houses a black Madonna -the patron saint of Mallorca. It is a pilgrimage destination and there is accommodation for travellers as it’s a popular hiking and biking area. Restaurants and bars as well.

Then an hour south down the highway through Inca (a large leather manufacturing town) and Binissalem ( world recognised vineyards) before reaching Palma at 5.30pm.

Quite a day!

Drinks - waiting for dinner..

Return to El Rinconcito del Norte

Avocado and prawn salad

Duck with salsa and patatas

Delicioso!

 

And icecream for dessert..

M&M