Enthused by our previous pilgrim walks, we decided to walk on another pilgrim route in the European summer of 2009. The Chemin du Piedmont Pyreneen begins on the southern French border, from the Mediterranean to St Jean Pied de Port in the foothills of the Pyrenees mountains. We planned to visit some other cities on the way.
TURIN
We began our holiday by flying into Turin and had an interesting day sightseeing Turin, with its reputation of being an industrial centre, was surprisingly sophisticated, having been established by the Savoy dynasty. We loved the architecture, particularly in the centre, the medieval village, the Shroud of Turin, the buzz of the crowds for passeggiata hour and the eateries near the Piazza della Republica.
AIX -EN -PROVENCE
Provence and the quintessential heart is Aix. Style, precision, colour. Fabulous.
Avignon - the Palace and the bridge ( Sur la point….) was a fascinating day too.
LE CHEMIN DU PIEDMONT PYRENEEN
NARBONNE
Having missed our train from Avignon and having to find our way in the heat of the afternoon was not an auspicious start to our walk. Again, as in our experience with the Via de la Plata, there were high summer temperatures and not much accommodation in the small towns along the way. Many businesses were closed for the .summer, so locating cafes and small supermarkets for snacks and water was very difficult.
CARCASSONE
The first major town we walked into was Carcassonne. A town with a fascinating history and one, which we had read about before our trip. It is the story of the Cathar sect that was persecuted during the Inquisition in the 12th century and the horrific tortures that they endured from the wrath of the Catholic Church. We stayed in the Notre Dame de l’Abbaye across from the picturesque castle.
FANJEAUX
A night in a convent, established in 1207 by Saint Dominic. Notre-Dame de Prouille.
A very enjoyable meal with a group on retreat from Toulouse.
MONTREAL
Through the Chemin community we were able to find accommodation in Montreal with an English family who had bought a 3 story derelict home 6 years ago and are gradually renovating the large home. They had two engaging sons who have embraced their French schools and community life.
MIREPOIX
The next day we took a taxi to Mirepoix. The heat and blistered feet have encouraged us to have a rest day in this enchanting medieval village. We arrived on Market Day - all local produce spectacularly displayed. The following day was Bastille Day - the French National day - so we enjoyed the pomp and ceremony of the local community.
WALKING ON …
The heat has beaten us. The rare pilgrim we encountered shared our concerns for the lack of shade, the nil opportunities for buying water and other refreshments and the dangers of heatstroke. We walked on for two more days staying in Pamiers and Mas d’Azil, where we realised that this was not the summer for walking. 'So we had a contingency plan…
TOULOUSE
Off to Toulouse. A fascinating city with excellent museums , particularly Musee de Augustin, the Cathedral with my heroine, Joan d’Arc, well displayed and honoured. Impressed with tea houses and cosmopolitan restaurants.
A train to…
ST JEAN PIED DE PORT,
the starting point of the Spanish section of the Camino Frances.
WALKING TO PAMPLONA
Four days walk to Pamplona. We particularly enjoyed the experience of staying in the Orisson Hostal high in the Pyrenees and the Roncenvalles albergue, at the base of the mountains, which was like a military hospital and caters for up to
120 pilgrims. Ear plugs essential. We met a few interesting walkers along the way. One French lady we discovered writes the French translations for the books of the Australian author, Tim Winton.
Then we took a bus to…
BILBAO
A few days in this interesting Basque city. We stayed in a local B&B in the city centre. We witnessed some summer festivals, enjoyed the evening in the plazas with local families, the Guggenheim, museums and exhibitions, walks up the river, the funicular to look at the city, lots of wonderful pinxas ( tapas) and seafood meals.
TOLEDO
A train to Madrid and then a local train to Toledo.
A fortress town with a maze of streets, to confuse the enemy and tourists. It is built on rock and thus absorbs the heat, so a real hotbox in the summer months. Fascinating Jewish and Muslim sections of the city with ancient pasts.
MADRID
Two final days in Madrid, soaking up the summer attractions. Festivals in the Plaza Mayor, relaxing in the beautiful Retiro Park in the same vicinity as the Prado and the modern art museum, Reina Sofia.
ROME AND MONTECASSINO
A quick stopover on our way home to see our nephew, David, who lives in Montecassino south of Rome. It’s main claim to fame is the large Benedictine monastery, where Benedict established his order in the 500s. It has suffered destruction through the centuries, including being bombed in WW2, but it has been beautifully restored. A very happy day with David and Antonio on their very productive fruit and vegetable orchard.
A lovely end to our holiday.
M&M
