JULY 2014 : IRELAND : Kerry Way : Day 6 : Cahersiveen to Waterville

       

                        

                              

Today we walked from Terraha to Waterville. Distance : 20 kms; Weather : wet, windy 

  Breda, our B&B host, drove us from Cahersiveen to Terraha to eliminate walking in some of the boggy 

  and saturated sections of the route.

                                                 

                  

           Desperately trying to keep dry as we prepare to start walking in rainy and windy conditions.

                                          

                                    Dark black bogs constant with continual wet weather in Kerry  

                                             

       

                                            Even the Bog Cotton looked bedraggled in the rain.

          

             Misty and windy morning prevented us seeing any views from Coomdeeween Mountain

        

We walked up to Knockayahaun (371m), the highest point of the Kerry Way Coastal Route and    continued to reach the summit of Canuig (261m).

         

                              Descending from Canuig, the rain stops and the mist recedes.

         

             We crossed the Inny River over the Foilrenagh Bridge, which winds its way through this valley.

       

    

   Lunch and a reorganisation at our first sign of civilisation (and dryness) at Mastergeehy Post Office.

      

After heavy rain this morning John and Maugie opt for the road to Waterville but Mark and I ignore our sodden socks and shoes and the promise of more bog-walking and decide to continue on the prescribed route.

      

         Walking along the ridge of Coomduff (244m) towards Knag Hill with Ballyskellig's Bay ahead

      

                              More bog flowers brightening an otherwise grey day 

         

       

                                Our first view of Waterville from Knag Hill (208m)

      

Our accommodation tonight is Golf Links View. 2 kms out of town but our hosts offered to take and collect us for dinner in Waterville.

       

                                                    The coast south of Waterville

                                     

Before his self-exile from the UK (to Montreux in Switzerland), Charlie Chaplin spent holidays in Waterville.

                               

                                                               Drink at O'Dwyer's

       

                Crab encrusted Brill fish and black pudding/chicken roulade in the Fishermen's Bar.

M&M

14/7/2014

JULY 2014 : IRELAND : Kerry Way : Day 5 : Glenbeigh to Foilmore ( stay at Cahersiveen)

Today we walked along the Kerry coast and scaling from several large hills and then descending to the small hamlet of Foilmore. We were then driven to our B&B in Cahersiveen.

Distance : 21km. Weather : fine and sunny 

                                   We left Glenbeigh crossing the River Behy Bridge.

                                 

Then we climbed a path bordered by conifer forests and walked along with a fabulous view of the valley and our route yesterday, which we completed in thick fog. Lucky to have the contrast today.

    The amazing atrophying of a tree root system. It reminded me of a hardware store we saw in Dublin, called Knobs and Knockers.

We then followed the road, which was built on a disused railway line which serviced Tralee and Cahersiveen from 1893 to 1960. We have Drung Hill ahead of us as our first ascent for the day.

    

      Vibrant fuchsias (introduced - not native) lined our route growing along the hedge rows.

          Looking back towards Glenbeigh and the attractive valley we have passed through.

The Kerry Way skirts Drung Hill high above the coastline and the Ring of Kerry Road. Views across to Dingle and the Blasket Islands.

        

 We then rounded a corner into Farta Valley and we could see the seaside town of Kells and the viaduct 

                The next main landmark was Knocknadobar, a popular hill for climbing.

        

           Still finding different bog plants with their intricate eco-systems

   After a very scenic morning we had seven kilometres on a straight path and tarred road to Foilmore (which translates large boggy place). Here we can see Cahersiveen on the Valencia River in the distance.

Liz's sister, Mary, met us in Foilmore and drove us to the Southern Sun B&B in Cahersiveen.

One of the main buildings in Cahersiveen is the Daniel O'Connell Memorial Church. The only church in Ireland dedicated to a lay person. Daniel O'Connell (1775-1847) was born near here and is considered 'the Liberator' securing the right of Irish Catholics to sit in the English Parliament.

  Dinner at QC's in Cahersiveen with Liz and her sister, Mary. Delicious food and classy decor.

www.qcbar.com

Great day's walking today in very pleasant conditions. 

M&M 

13/7/2014

JULY 2014 : IRELAND : Kerry Way : Day 3 : Glencar to Glenbeigh

                                     

                                        Glencar to Glenbeigh - forest and woodland paths

                                         Distance : 18 km.   Weather : misty rain

                                                    

      

        Setting off this morning from Glencar with Mary and Mike, owners of the B&B.

      

                     We had a 4 km walk along the road, passing Lough Acoose on our left.

                                   

   A memorial on the roadside with the most beautiful Celtic cross with a carved harp, shamrock, gryphons and other Irish insignia.

      

              It wasn't long on the trail that the mist turned to rain so we all prepared for a wet day.

         

 We crossed the Caragh River and walked along the bank. In the past, this river was the benchmark for water purity in Europe.

      

    We walked through forests and shady woodlands - a contrast to the rocky climbs yesterday 

       

          Through the mist we caught a glimpse of Lough Caragh and the MacGillycuddy Reeks

                                       

        

         In the Lickeen forest there was a magical section with mossy rocks and shaded paths 

          

                                                    More unusual wildflowers

       

         A decision to make. 8km with road walking or 3km with 350m climb. We took the climb around

         Seefin peak, with the steep ascent. Beautiful track but no view as mist came in suddenly.

      

 By the time we reached the other side the skies had cleared enough to see Dingle Bay and Peninsular.

      

                                    Great seafood meal at The Towers pub in Glenbeigh

         

                     Guinness training

       

                              Our B&B in Glenbeigh is The Emir View run by the MacGillicuddys.

M&M 

12/7/2014

JULY 2014 : IRELAND : Kerry Way : Day 2 : Black Water to Glencar

       

Today we walked from Black Water Valley over into Bridia Valley over the Lack Road to Lough Acoose.

Distance : 20 km Weather : cloudy and cool

        

John, Maugie and Liz stayed at the Black Valley Hostel. Excellent facilities, including some ensuite double rooms. Self-catering. We met them at 9 am and proceeded along the Black Valley.

     

       

      

Lovely temperature for walking. The route included some tarmac, through fields, stone paths, bog and grassy rocky ascents.

        

Up on the mountainside were some 'lazy beds', a remnant from the Potato Famine in the nineteenth century. Farmers believed that they could beat the chances of potato blight if they planted at a higher altitude. Hard and thankless work.

                                   

                   A cautious deer as we passed one of the small lakes in Black Water Valley.

       

There were several interesting bog plants which attract insects in various way to extract necessary nitrogen missing from the bog soil. This is Butterwort and it has a sticky leaf which the insects become attached.

                                     

        

      

                  This is a Sundew plant which traps insects in the transparent sap droplets.

                 

         

                    Large flocks of sheep in various states of undress due to recent shearing.

       

                                  The saddle between Black Water Valley and Bridia Valley.

       

    Reaching the top and walking along a ridge before descending into the next valley. Lovely views.

        

The reason Ireland is known as the Emerald Isle. You can just see Maugie making her way down cautiously.

                                 

                                  Making our way along the valley on a rocky section.

       

Late in the afternoon we discovered this B&B which doubles as a cafe/ restaurant during the day. Excellent menu and food and includes their own homemade ice cream. Signs about minimum orders €3 and no picnickers etc. Mein host was a little like Basil Fawlty. I happened to ask why you would name a cafe Cooky Monster when it is set in such a scenic valley with other more imaginative possibilities. Bad move. Cooky Monster is his pet name for his wife, the chef. I didn't see her but only could imagine someone purple and furry. To add insult to injury he caught me sampling a ripe raspberry from his bush - only grown for one of his special ice cream flavours. I made a quick retreat.

        

            Another ascent up the Lack Road. Lack being the Irish for flagstones.

          

              The view of the day, looking towards Lough (Lake) Acoose, our destination for the day. 

          

                      John taking in the view. Liz and Maugie preparing for yet another cup of tea.

       

After the steep descent we enjoyed the final section by the Gearhanagour Stream but alas no views of Carrauntoohil to our right, the highest mountain in Ireland (1039m), as the mist had begun to roll in.

Our B&B in Glencar, Lough Acoose. Our hosts, Mike and Mary, could not have been more hospitable. Providing an evening meal, breakfast, sandwiches for lunch and even driving us to and fro to the local (excuse for a) pub, so John could test out their Guinness - surprisingly impressed. Interesting to see what these remote communities have to offer.

M&M 

11/7/2014