M&M Smith

Monday, 14 October 2013

TASMANIA : DAY 2 : OVERLAND TRACK : Barn Bluff Hut to Pine Forest Moor Hut (12 km, 6 hours)

DAY 2 : fine and cool

Elevation for Day 2

Early morning light from Barn Bluff

Delicious breakfast of porridge, fruit, homemade toast and freshly-made yoghurt and Tassie jams. We set off at 9 am, with a homemade lunch and clad in long gaiters in the event of wet and muddy sections and unwelcome guests, such as leeches or snakes. Rob consoled me that snakes were rare but there was an unfortunate story of a trekker who veered off the track to relieve herself and was nipped on the bottom by an unsuspecting snake. Too embarrassed to report what had happened, she continued on, to her detriment, as she died as a result. A sobering story on several levels.

View looking back to Cradle Mountain

In the last few years many more duckboards have been laid in the sodden moorland which makes walking more pleasant. The plan is that 40% of the park will have wooden walkways and the rest will be natural paths. Fairly flat walking today with a side trip to Lake Will - a glacial lake.

Lake Will named after Joseph Wills (1890s) who prospected for coal in this area.

We had lunch at Lake Windemere and persuaded Andy to swim out to an island in the centre. There is a book there, which has been signed by many brave swimmers. He took the challenge well and reported that there were many names in the book. One swimmer had written " I went in a man and came out a woman!" It was absolutely freezing.

Andy braves the freezing waters of Lake Windemere

There were small lakes (tarns) along the way as we passed through plains of button grass , families of pandanus and ancient Pencil Pines. Great views of Cradle Mountain and Barn Bluff behind us and Mt Pelion West ahead.

Colourful moss

Pandanus families along the path

Button grass

Ancient pencil pines

Scones with local raspberry jam and cream for afternoon tea and another delicious
meal at Pine Forest Moor Hut. Good company with a games of cards and Scrabble.

Teaching Franka (from Switzerland) the intricasies of Scrabble in English.

M&M

TASMANIA : DAY 1 : OVERLAND TRACK : Waldheim to Barn Bluff Hut (12 km, 7 hours)

DAY 1 : fine and cool.

Elevation for Day 1

We were collected from our hotel in Launceston by a Cradle Hut company bus at 6.45 am. Not the most auspicious morning to begin our journey on reflection as it was the first day of Daylight Saving. Mark turned his watch and mobile forward in anticipation but his mobile also recalibrated to compensate for the time zone. Thus, we were woken at 4.30am - plenty of time to prepare!

We were driven to Quamby Estate about half an hour south of Launceston, to Cradle Mountain Huts base. We met our guides, Rob, Tom and Andy and the other walkers. The group includes a family from Canberra, including their Swiss exchange student, a couple from Mt Tamborine near Brisbane, two friends from Orange and us.

Guides checked our gear, providing us with a pack and gortex jacket. The emphasis was on ensuring that we had the minimum required for walking comfort.

We arrived at Cradle Mountain Lodge about 11 and began our walk from the Waldheim Hut. Waldheim, a German immigrant, and his wife were the earliest tourists to the area and built several wooden huts to explore the countryside. They were instrumental in campaigning for the Cradle Mountain region to be zoned as a national park.

Pademelons

Wombats

From the onset there were lots of surprises. Pademelons sunning themselves, the odd brave wombat and large hawks circling above us. From the initial flat grasslands we suddenly found ourselves in a temperate rainforest.

Rainforest pocket as we began our climb

Making our way to Marion's Lookout

The steepest section of the whole track is in the first hour, walking up to Marion's Lookout (1223m), and we were so fortunate that it was a clear day and we had brilliant views of Cradle Mountain (1545m) and other peaks. There was a bit of residual snow from falls in the last few days. Most of the peaks in this area are dolerite - formed by molten magma under the earth's surface and then exposed after millions of years of erosion.

Spectacular view of Cradle Mountain from Marion's Lookout

With an average of 156 rainy days we were very lucky to see it in all its glory!

Lunch (with hot tea and coffee) by one of the icy tarns

It was a quite a long day with considerable contrasts with Dove Lake, glacial cirque, walking in Waterfall Valley and then climbing over Barn Bluff to our hut at its base. Paths consisted of wooden planks, stony sections and thick rooted stairways. Most of the day was spent on the alpine plateau, skirting around Cradle Mountain, with spectacular views down the valleys.

Views down Waterfall Valley

Climbing up over Barn Bluff

Exotic mosses

Wooden paths lead us to our hut

Barn Bluff Hut

Double rooms

We were welcomed with local cheeses and wine at the hut - and warm shower. Our 3 course meal was delicious - including soup, pasta and chocolate slice.

Our guides, Rob, Andy and Tom preparing our sumptuous meal with assistance from Hazel.

M&M

Sunday, 13 October 2013

TASMANIA : OVERLAND TRACK : Overview

OVERLAND TRACK, TASMANIA

School holidays and another opportunity for walking one of our spectacular Australian trails.

Many of our friends and family have trekked the Overland Track and so Mark and I took the opportunity to do it ourselves last week.

It can been walked in 3 ways - totally independent -camping or staying in National Park huts, guided -camping staying on large wooden platforms near facilities or with Cradle Mountain Huts, which brand themselves as 'modest luxury' - guided and fully -catered in specially designed mini -lodges. October can be freezing in the Apple Isle so we opted for the latter. www.cradlehuts.com.au

The walk is organised over 6 days - 60 - 80kms in all, depending on the side trip options. This entailed walking about 7 hours per day through rainforest, button -grass savanah, oldgrowth forest and alpine plateaux.The weather varied from sunny 17o to heavy rain and light snowfalls. We walked with 8 other trekkers and 3 guides - Rob, Tom and Andy, on his first training run.

We gave every aspect of the trip 10/10 and highly recommend it to anyone who has reasonable fitness.

M&M

13/10/13

Tuesday, 16 July 2013

WESTERN AUSTRALIA : DAY 5 : CAPE TO CAPE WALK - Hamelin Bay - Cape Leeuwin - 25.5 km

DAY 5 : CAPE TO CAPE WALK - Hamelin Bay - Cape Leeuwin - 25.5 km - 9 hours

Mild day with afternoon showers

The last stage today from Hamelin Bay to Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse in Augusta (where the Indian Ocean and the Southern Oceans meet)

Hamish, our trusty driver, who proved a fund of information during the week.

A beautiful morning - a short section on the beach and then on to a path with views of Foul Bay

Discovery of new plants

The first views of Cosy Corner Bay

Limestone platform

Surprise, surprise - blow holes!

Vertical pipes through the rocks open to the sea below.

A storm approaches

Negotiating the soft sand on Deepdene Beach

Sections of the beach washed away in the winter storms

Granite headland

More sand dunes as we head south towards Cape Leeuwin

Ascending the path to the Augusta Cliffs...surely we must be nearly there!

At last a view of the lighthouse - still two and a half hours until we reach our destination.

Sunset and we begin to panic!

Armed with torches and no idea where the track was, we arrive at Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse at 6.15 pm - totally disoriented and exhausted - but very relieved.

We were pleased with our endurance but found the last day very gruelling with long distances on the soft sand and winding through dense, head-high scrub in the failing light.

M&M

mm_smith@bigpond.net.au