CAPE TO CAPE WALK - Margaret River, W.A. - 135 kms - 5 days - Overview

CAPE TO CAPE WALK, Margaret River, W.A.

 

 

A trip to Perth, Western Australia, to visit our son and daughter-in-law, during the winter school holidays, provided an opportunity to plan a few days to the do Cape to Cape Trek. This is a 135 km walk from Cape Naturalist to Cape Leeuwin and borders the famous Margaret River wine region. Given the unpredictable seasonal weather and the basic camping facilities (and we are not generally camping enthusiasts, if truth be known) we organised bed, breakfast and daily transport to each section of the track. We would highly recommend Lorraine and Richard Firth's Merribrook Retreat  www.merribrook.com.au. They are avid walkers and so are very informed about the route and have developed a comfortable lodge and high class cabin facilities to showcase the area.

 

The track is well marked and leads you along the beautiful rocky south-western coastline, by prepared trails through karri forests, on sandy beaches and some rocky outcrops. It has some excellent sections for shorter day walks. In fact, we would rate these stretches easy walking but the sum of the parts of the walk make it quite a strenuous undertaking. This is mainly due to the remoteness of the path and the availability for practical drop-off and pick-up points, if you are not camping on the track.

 

The daily temperature was about 18o C, which made walking very pleasant. We had some fine weather and some showers and fortunately, did not experience high winds or thunderstorms. Friends had warned us that this was a possibility so we were well prepared with wet-weather gear and long pants to prevent the pain of whipped-up sand.

 

The track itself was mainly flat and has been well maintained by the Friends of the Cape to Cape.  On the downside, a few essential guide posts had been removed at some intersections and we took some time to re-discover the correct path. The coastline is spectacular with fascinating bird and marine life and native vegetation. The wildflowers must be spectacular in Spring. The advantages walking in July are the cooler walking conditions, fewer annoying insects and snakes - although we did encounter 2 small innocuous pythons! The greatest disadvantage is the softness of the sand in the cooler weather, which makes walking slow and tedious -- and there are long stretches of beach track.

 

We didn't encounter anyone walking at this time, although there was evidence of others on the track in the sign-in books at both ends of the track. We were amazed by the number of surfers out every day off remote beaches, finding breaks in the treacherous reefs, often far from shore. Otherwise, the few coastal towns we encountered were deserted and summer cafes closed for the season. This made our evening returns to Margaret River all the more enjoyable each evening as we savoured the delights of the food, wine, conviviality and warmth of restaurants in the area.

 

Having walked to many destinations overseas in the past year we were delighted to be savouring Australian landscape as well, so pristine and well-cared for - with no language difficulties! Our warning is that on the face of it this appears to be quite a straightforward easy - medium walk, but because of the long expanses of beach / sand dunes, it can prove to be a difficult ordeal.

 

M&M

mm_smith@bigpond.net.au

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 



DAY 27 : NEPAL : Pokhara - Kathmandu - 35 minute flight

We left Pokhara on a 9.15 am flight. Again spectacular views throughout the journey.

Satish, not wanting us to miss any possible adventures, organised a guide to take us to Bhaktapur, half an hour from Kathmandu - a medieval town - 'a living museum'.

It is listed with UNESCO and has been renovated and maintained by a German- sponsored urban renewal program. The town's signature architecture is red narrow brick with teak carved windows and doorways.

The town/kingdom was established by the Emperor Ashoka in the 12th century and remained a kingdom in its own right until the 18th century when it was amalgamated with Kathmandu. Here is the original palace in the main Durbar Square.

Some old statues in the palace.

Religious carvings in teak a specialty of the town.

This is the goddess, Kali, a symbol of power and the patron of this town.

The king had shelters erected throughout the town for shade and for communal points for elderly residents.

A Newari ornamental doorway. This town is Newari - one of the original groups (now castes).

Some of the residents speak their own dialect and can't speak Nepalese.

Bit of slap and tickle never goes amiss.

Gathering the last drops of well water before the monsoon rains.

More efforts to get water from another well in the town.

This medieval structure is wheeled around the district every March at a special festival with a statue of a god for rain and welfare -Macchindranath. Our guide told us that there is much drinking and bravado as it is wheeled around with many helpers - this year 4 men died attempting to pull the unwieldy chariot - and that is not uncommon.

Spinning thread for handicrafts.

Women knitting.

Hindu temple dedicated to Brahma, Shiva and Vishnu.

The two guards of the temple are wrestlers, unique to this area.

Definitely our last meal together. Glenis has flown home, Satish and Tunka have set off on another trek with 2 Japanese couples on the Manaslu Circuit and we leave tonight on a midnight flight. Satish has won a position on a Search and Rescue course in Alaska in May and in September will attempt to summit Mt Manaslu with a Japanese team of climbers.

M&M

mm_smith@bigpond.net.au

DAY 26 : NEPAL : Jomson- Pokhara - 30 minute flight.

 

We are flying from Jomson to Pokhara today.

 

Up early for 6am flight. Staff up to say goodbye..and carry our bags for the last time. Mt Niligiri in the background.

The airport. Jomson is such a windy town that flights are unpredictable and are often cancelled. It is best to catch an early flight because after 10 am the winds build up down the valley.

 

Our aircraft. The passengers from the previous flight disembarked within about 5 minutes and we were ushered on while the propellers were still buzzing and were off within 15 minutes.

 

It is very basic aircraft - canvas seats. It is about a 30 minute flight - or 7 hours by car to Pokhara.

 

Spectacular views - mountains of rhododendrons!

Early views of Pokara - a bustling town with a great feel.

Birds??? No, tiny sightseeing helicopters and paragliders fill the skies.

Our hotel is divine - www.templetreenepal.com. Fabulous gardens, well appointed rooms ...and a pool!

The city is set around a lake with views of Macchapuchhre (Fish Tail Peak). Colourful dinghies ferry tourists to shrine in the middle of the lake.

Locals enjoying the lake breeze on a hot afternoon.

Macchapulchhre - Fish Tail Mountain overlooking Pokhara.

Lots of hard-selling locals. This Tibetan lady followed us around the lake with her bracelets - where is Mark to save me?

A snake charmer with his cobra and boa constrictor - and a terrified me!

 

A few of Mark's creative shots as we wandered by the lake.

 

Shopping heaven.

By the bar at the Temple Tree with Satish and Glenis. Such a happy day in a very relaxing setting. The end of a fabulous holiday!!

M&M

mm_smith@bigpond.net.au

DAY 25 : High Camp (4800m) via Thorung Pass (5416m) to Muktinath (3800m) - 7 hour walk and then to Jomson (2710m) by jeep (1 1/2 hour drive)

Climbing to the highest point today.

3.30 am start on the trail. Head lamps on and all rugged up ready for the challenge of our lives.

Slow and steady ... it was absolutely freezing - noses, lips, hands, feet - all numb! You can understand the warnings about frostbite and we were only walking in the cold and wind for 3 hours.

Sunrise over the Annapurna range. Fabulous views north to Yakowa Kang (6882m).

7.15am we reached the Thorung La Pass (5416m) - one of the highest passes in the world. It is equal to 4 Ben Nevises, two and a half Mt Kosciuskos and one and a half Mt Cooks.

Then 4 hours of descent..

with crampons to keep us from slipping.

What a relief to reach Muktinath - all in tact!

Despite our early start and tired bodies, Satish and Tunka insisted on taking us to the famous Vishnu temple - it is a Buddhist/ Hindu complex - and a pilgrimage point for many Nepalese and Indian Hindus for centuries -  devotees walked until recently but now a road connects Muktinath to some major towns.

It was a special celebration day. Many devotees were running through the 108 spouts of water which is said to bring salvation for Hindus.

At last we arrived in Muktinath proper and waited for our jeep. Eventually we were able to hire one - it is one of the main source of public transport, sharing the unmade, rocky roads with large crowded buses. While passing a tractor, our jeep broke an axle and after an hour wait another came to rescue us.

The trip was down precipitous roads with spectacular and breathtaking (literally) views of a large gorge and river valley with fertile gardens.

Our hotel is next to the airport in Jomson - a large commercial centre and capital of the Mustang region. Convenient as we leave on a 6 am flight tomorrow morning.

Our last night with the crew - we had a buffet dinner together, a "Safe Journey" cake, music and dancing. A wonderful evening and fitting end to an amazing 3 week trek.

M&M

mm_smith@bigpond.net.au