OCTOBER 2022 : FRANCE : STEVENSON TRAIL : Day 6 : Le Bastide-Puylaurent - Chasseradès : 13 kms

Stage six (first half)

Le Bastide Puylaurent - Chasseradès 

13 kms (22,993 steps)

Weather forecast : 21o and sunny

Each day more walkers join the trail. This morning two German girls shared breakfast with us. Both teachers, they are spending their Autumn break walking to Montpelier.

Sweet buns

Breast cancer month - rather strange juxtaposition outside the church.

Foggy morning in the township by the river as we left this morning. Crossing the railway tracks. carefully as the notice suggests, we then started quite a steep ascent from the onset on a dirt road.



A few minutes later, brilliant sunshine. For most of the morning we walked along a ridge line punctuated by wind turbines.

Spectacular views across the valleys.

Passing by a small group of houses

Sweeping views

Only a short  four hour walk and on easy walking trails, we arrived too early for the gite. Fortunately there was a bar ten minutes along the path for light refreshments. Picnic from a little supermarket in Le Bastide - fresh croissants with delicious ham.

A surprise tonight staying in a very modern gite. Separate bedrooms with bathroom but communal facilities. It is in a very scenic setting, on the GR route but surrounded by a pine forest. It is full tonight so it will be interesting to see who sits down for dinner.



Another lively meal with all French speakers.

An excellent husband and wife team delivering an exceptional meal.

M&M

OCTOBER 2022 : FRANCE : STEVENSON TRAIL : Day 5 : Cheylard-L’Évêque - La Bastide-Puylaurent : 20 kms

Fifth stage

Cheylard-L’Évêque - La Bastide-Puylaurent

20kms (33,422 steps)

Forecast : 18o and clear skies ( but in fact, misty fog until lunchtime then sunny and 21o)

Breakfast included

Bowls of coffee, French toast, donkey biscuits and ponti- a sweet moist cake with plums

Today we enjoyed the trail. Mainly in pine forests. Lovely autumnal colours.

Some minor colour along the way, many varieties of mushrooms and toadstools and some interesting pine cones.

Mid-morning we walked through this gorgeous recreation (picnic) area and pond, so we had a snack and enjoyed ‘the serenity’.



After a climb to the top of the ridge, we made a steep descent of 300m on narrow rocky paths (not slippery or perilous as on day 2) down to Luc. The chateau has seen better days. There was an interesting account from Stevenson’s diary.

At the bottom of the path, entering Luc, we found a place to have coffee and a cold drink. The manager of the gite was very friendly and brought out some homemade lemon cake as well for us to sample.



Our picnic lunch provided by the hotel.

We walked down through Luc. The manor house in the distance was more impressive than the chateau ruins.

From here it was only 5 kms to Le Bastide, our destination tonight. This entailed some orienteering, following instructions over stiles, under railway bridges, following a path above a railway line. We were a little nervous about this section as a lady stopped by us in her car in Luc.

She intimated that there was a problem near Rogleton with the trail. Her opening statement was that she spoke excellent English and then proceeded to speak in rapid French. She made us repeat some place names , which we obediently did, but we couldn’t understand any of her instructions. Thankfully our guidebook had everything under control.

Our first view of Le Bastide



We were too early to get into our hotel so had a refreshing drink. Shame the French aren’t into sangria - trying to find a French substitute.

There are only two choices for accommodation in Le Bastide. Both look very similar. Not a lot of character. We have a double room with a bathroom - but not a loo! Not looking forward to my midnight dash down a corridor.

Dinner included.

Vegetable soup

Pork sausage and potatoes

Cheese platter or blueberry tart

We are feeling very buoyant after the last few days with the reasonable track and cool weather. No injuries or discomfit, which makes the whole experience so pleasurable!

M&M

OCTOBER 2022 : FRANCE : STEVENSON TRAIL : Day 4 : Langogne -Cheylard-L’Évêque : 16.5kms

Fourth stage

Langogne - Cheylard-L’Évéque

16.5 kms (29,028 steps)

Forecast : 19o and Foggy (but actually sunny)

So much warmer this morning, a toasty 7o at sunrise.

Breakfast downstairs.

The young couple that own the business have provided a wonderful service for the town.

Very friendly and welcoming.

Setting off at 8.15am

Despite being Sunday there was a delightful boulangerie on our route out of town. Langogne was more appealing near the river this morning than the drab commercial main street as we came in yesterday.

Again excellent walking on wide paths. Short sections on the road linking to forest tracks. There were a few hamlets but not the large pastures and sweeping vistas.

Sunday - hunters and shooters out in force

Most of the walk we were travelling through pine and beech forests.

About midday we headed down again to the River Allier. 

Cheylard-L’Évêque - a picturesque village on the river, our destination tonight.

Our picnic lunch outside the tiny town hall waiting for the auberge to open at 2.30pm.

High above the town is the chapel of Our Lady of All Graces

Our accommodation tonight is Le

 Refuge du Moure

Donkeys tethered outside for the night

Drinks on the terrace. Gorgeous afternoon.

And dinner (included) with fellow walkers

And you’ll be delighted to know the salad contained goose gizzard - tender and full of Vitamin E! A chestnut and apple aperitif from the area.



M&M

OCTOBER 2022 : FRANCE : STEVENSON TRAIL : Day 3 : Le Bouchet St Nicolas - Langogne : 28.5 kns

Third stage

Le Bouchet St Nicolas - Langogne

28.5kms (46,471 steps)

Forecast : 13o and drizzly rain

With the wind chill factor it is 4o this morning

Breakfast with the bike group

We left at 8.15am. A bit of an eclectic mix. Sunflowers, local lace, telephone box turned community library and a specially prepared delicious baguette from the boulangerie for lunch.

From the outset today, the tracks were fabulous!! It was a long day’s walk so we really appreciated it!

The bike group passing us early on on the track.

A hunter in the field - not sure what the game was as we’ve seen no wildlife.

Our first town, Landos.

Lunch in Arquejols.

A huge viaduct is it’s only claim to fame.

Then we stumbled across this endearing scene. A very frustrated traveller with a very uncooperative donkey.

Large beef area

Scenic views and colourful plants continue 



Entering Pradelles, considered one of the interesting towns on the Trail. Certainly a town with an intriguing history if the dates on buildings, pictorial accounts and the portcullis as you exit the town, are anything to go by.

[ Enlarge the orange freeze and you will see the heroine of Pradelles throwing rocks down on invading soldiers]

Then we descended steeply down to Langogne and the Allier River



Our accommodation in this non-descript town is the Beauséjour Hotel, surprisingly fresh and modern.

Set menu at the Grand Hotel across the road, associated with this hotel. Friendly and plenty of lentils!

M&M