DAY 5 : INDIA : Jaisalmer

Weather : hot, dry with pleasant breeze, 30+

 

A day in Jaisalmer

 

 

Our excellent guide today was Nariz.

 

 

 

Beautiful morning as we leave from our hotel

 

 

Jaisalmer has an artificial lake excavated in the fourteenth century and originally was filled by rain water. Now it is fed through the Indira Gandhi Canal with waters from the Himalayas.

The impressive gate through to the lake was donated by a rich courtesan of the maharajas in the nineteenth century.

 

 

The maharaja and his family picnicked and bathed in these pavillions on the lake.

 

 

 

A surprise artist in one of the pavilions.

Indians are known for their enterprise and we haven't been disappointed at any site with

enthusiasm and finding an opportunity to make some money.

 

 

 

View to the Jaisalmer Fort.

Jaisal, the first ruler, built this golden sandstone fort on a huge sand dune in the 12th century. Unfortunately, water is seeping into the sand and undermining the foundations. The owners of the properties refuse to leave their prosperous businesses so the problem cannot be rectified.

 

 

 

The fort houses the original maharaja and maharani palaces.

 

 

There is activity in and around the fort. A little tight-rope walker intrigues tourists.

 

 

The maharaja's palace, now a museum, from the inside the fort.

The descendants now live in a large house in the town.

 

 

Not only did wives throw themselves on funeral pyres of their husbands, but in war, if the maharaja was killed there was an agreement that the women of the household would commit suicide ('johra') to avoid the evil intensions of marauding troops. Before they died they put handprints on the wall - here are some that have survived.

 

 

There are 7 Jain temples in the fort. Jains were the successful business families of Jaisalmer - dealing mainly in opium and silver. Their wealth has provided for the establishment of the temples.

 

  

 

The main tenet of Jainism is non-violence. Strict Jains are vegans and will not even eat vegetables grown below the ground as the harvest of these foods may have resulted in the death of insects. They have no main god but 24 prophets - all numbered and with special symbols. They dress in white to worship.

They were and are wealthy entrepreneurs refusing to be involved in any activity, like farming, that might result in the death of living things, including flies, mosquitoes. Even driving a car was thought fraught with problems and they even ate before sunset so that they would not accidentally kill insects attracted by artificial light while they were eating.

 

 

Outside the fort fresh food markets.

 

 

Cows rule..even when they decide to enter a shop.

 

 

If a daughter marries then the family carries that band of honour with a special sign painted on the outside of the house with details of names and date of the happy occasion.

 

 

A huge haveli with 5 sections for each son built by a Jain merchant who dealt in the opium trade. This trade stopped with Partition in 1947 when the borders into Pakistan were closed. Locals tend to rebuild new houses in the traditional style, so the unique craft and architecture continues.

 

 

A camel ride 40 minutes from Jaisalmer in the desert to Sam, a huge dune. Very popular activity on the tourist agenda. Hundreds of tourists joined us at sunset.

 

 

Gypsy families walk the dunes selling drinks, chips and earning money by dancing and playing music.

 

 

A rooftop restaurant in the town - delicious food on a balmy night overlooking the fort.

 

 

M&M

 

mm_smith@bigpond.net.au

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

DAY 4 : INDIA : Jaisalmer

 

Weather : hot, hazy and 30+

 

 

We met Vijay, our guide, after breakfast and he took us to the Bikaner Fort. This is the best example of a fort which has remained operational since its construction in the twelth century. It is built in the same pink sandstone as the palace, which is now the Laxmi Niwas Palace Hotel, where we stayed. The maharaja and his family lived in the fort until 1911 when the palace was built. It holds fascinating history of the city. The Rajput rulers in this area negotiated well making alliances with the Moghul invaders and the British colonial regime and the city prospered because of it. The fort houses city administration and an impressive museum with weapons, modes of transport and musical instruments. The maharaja's quarters and formal areas are still in tact with sumptuous decorations including Belgium glass and gems - floral designs from the Moghul era and historical murals from Hindu times.Muslim artists never depict human form.

 

Vijay, our guide, and his cousin-in-training

 

 

 

Bikaner Fort

 

 

The opulence of the Maharaja's throne room

 

Then we were on the road again - a 5 hour drive on perfectly flat terrain. There were no large towns but only scattered communities - some reed houses and others small flat- topped box-like buildings. Many of these are settled by Muslims, who have come across from the Pakistani border nearby. Sheep and goats, mustard seed crops, simple brickworks and makeshift workshops cutting pink sandstone. Much of the area is without electricity and water. Water is transported in large steel containers via camels to communities. You have a feeling that this is how life has been for hundreds of years and many of these communities will continue so for many years to come. They go about their daily business, gathering fuel, thinking nothing of walking long distances for stores or to school. Regardless of the heat, there always seems to be people walking or working in the fields or tending sheep and goat flocks or just chatting on their haunches under a tree on the roadside.

 

 

Wild deer

 

 

Another wild creature rarely seen - the blue bull

 

 

Another lovely surprise when we reached our destination of Jaisalmer. It is known as 'The Golden City' because of the yellow sandstone buildings.

Our hotel is a modern one but in traditional style. It is the Fort Rajwada Hotel

www.rajwadafort.com. It is very comfortable, with lovely pool, and views of the city. We were able to sit on the rooftop and watch the sunset - very peaceful. We're looking forward to seeing more of the hustle and bustle of the city tomorrow. It's so different for us to be travelling in such a sanitised manner, having backpacked in India 40 years ago. But travelling such long distances in such desolate terrain, we are appreciating the easiness of travel with a local guide and driver...and not to mention having a full-time Hindi speaker to practise with as well.

 

Fort Rajwada Hotel

 

 

Fabulous pool and venue for meals

 

 

Sunset over Jaisalmer Fort

 

 

An unexpected dancing lesson during dinner

 

It is ironic that with no facilities for agricultural communities nearby, there are 95 channels on our TV in the hotel - one channel seems solely dedicated for back-to-back reruns of Packed to the Rafters and 3 or 4 cricket channels, one showing Australian interstate one day games!

M&M

mm_smith@bigpond.net.au

DAY 3 : INDIA : Bikaner

 

Destination : Bikaner

Weather : fine, hazy and hot, 30+

Another long day of driving west through desert country. Water is a huge problem as all of the traditional wells, dug as deep as 700 feet are dry.

Traditional wells are marked by four columns 

and were used as a meeting place when they were operational. 

 

Wealthy business men have cultivated stretches of the land, spending extraordinary amounts of money to dig bores and pumping stations. Unfortunately, most of these investors live in Mumbai so the locals don't benefit from the infrastructure as much as they could. Large clay pots are filled with what water there is and left in shaded cages along the road for locals to use. Fortunately we are provided with bottled water from our driver and at all hotels gratis.

 Marked contrast of desert and cultivated land.

Remarkable that the soil can be brought to life so quickly.

 

Agricultural workers live in these small reed huts with families.

 

We broke our journey at Fatepur near Mandawa. Fatepur also benefited from the Spice Trade and many merchants built havelis (stylish Rajput houses) but now they lay abandoned and have been left to deteriorate. A French artist, Nadine Le Prince, has faithfully restored one of these and now divides her time between Rajasthan and and France. We were met by a young French couple who are acting as guides while Nadine is in France. They found the position on the internet and will spend 2 months in Fatepur, support by house staff. It is a comfortable home with modern kitchen, laundry etc tucked away.

 

Nadine La Prince's renovated haveli in Fatepur.

 

 

Beautiful artefacts adorn the house including this wedding litter,

 which transports a bride to the wedding.

  

Our destination today was Bikaner. A prosperous town with signs of growth and style. Its development has depended on its camel trade. When the Silk Route ended the town was able to maintain viability by selling camels to the British. There is still an army regiment that patrol the desert borders on camels with Pakistan. There is a large military base here and they host many special operations because of their proximity to the desert.

The Indian government also has a large professional camel farm used for breeding and studying camels. We were taken on a tour by the company's contact here, Vijay. There are large pens for new borns, young camels and a large breeding program with stud 'lucky' camels. There is a small museum, store with camel products and a camel cafe where they serve camel tea, coffee, milkshakes and ice cream (kulfi). We opted for the ice cream and it was thick and very tasty.

Camel nursery

 

 

'Lucky' stud camels - according to our guide

 

Out hotel tonight is another maharaja's palace. As in the one in Madawa, the family still own this residence. In fact, they live in the grounds in sumptuous accommodation nearby. The palace is very impressive with many wings, a large courtyard, private sections on the rooftops, a beautifully maintained pool and beautifully groomed grounds. We have a room with access to the roof and decorated in nineteenth century style. Initially we had no water - I think the pipes in a building of this size and age must be a nightmare - but all was rectified. A quick dip in the pool was just what I needed.

The Laxmi Niwas Palace Hotel

www.laxminivaspalace.com

 

Hotel rooftop

We had planned to eat in the town but after a hot and tiring day we opted for the hotel buffet in the courtyard restaurant, which was just a gorgeous setting on a hot evening. Our favourite dish was fish with a ginger, 'chilly', garlic sauce. This was accompanied by a local music group and a female dancer, who delighted diners by dancing with pots balanced on her head. We seem to be the only English speakers travelling west at this time - large groups of French, German and Italians. Becoming mindful of the extra calories... but what a way to go...

 

Traditional music and dancing in the hotel courtyard

 

 

Enjoying the ambience on a warm evening

 

 

Some of my Hindi is coming back and I'm enjoying a bit of banter with Radhey, our driver, and the guides. I'm reading India Rising : tales from a changing nation / Oliver Balch. A interesting perspective.

M&M
mm_smith@bigpond.net.au

　

　

DAY 2 : INDIA : Mandawa

Weather : fine, smog and 31o



Delhi to Madawa

 

Breakfast of parathas and Southern Indian rice pancakes at Nidra Hotel



With our trusty driver, Radhey
 

A 6 hour drive today with our driver, Radhey, who will transport us through Rajasthan. He is very enthusiastic about our trip together ("Now we are family!") and gave us a lively commentary as we drove west from Delhi. 

 

 

Grazing sheep and goats along roadway

 

 

Colourfully-dressed women balancing goods

 

 

Camels carting mustard seed chaff for fodder

 

HUGE loads of goods threatening to spill - and some did!

 

There was continual activity along the route as Rajasthanis play out their lives in a very public way – whether it be food stalls, men crouched in groups playing cards, children bathing in water troughs, workers cutting slate or making bricks in outdoor workshops, temporary makeshift camps for road constructions workers and their families and women gracefully walking along the road balancing all manner of cargo on their heads.

We were fascinated by the range of animals and their important roles. Camels were the predominant carriers of HUGE carts of the ever-present mustard seed crop lining our route. Donkeys pulled smaller carts of soil and stones for road works. Cows were shackled or roaming along the road, carefully tended by householders, as they are their only source of fuel. All the dung is collected and patted into large shaped pancakes and neatly stored in large piles for burning. Herds of goats, sheep and young calves also feed along the highway usually accompanied by brightly dressed women, who graze their animals far from home in this dry, desert area.

 

Hanif, our tour guide, in Mandawa

 

 

Beautifully restored havelis

 

Inside one of the havelis - with frescoes fading

 

Our destination today was Mandawa , a small town in the Shekhawati region. It is famous for its beautifully painted havelis, which are large Rajput (Hindu architecture) houses , built in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries.This area was originally part of the Spice Route and merchants built spectacular homes, employing local artisans to paint scenes and designs on the exterior and interior. We had a fascinating walking tour with a local guide and were able to go inside many of these buildings and experience life in Mandawa in its heyday. Unfortunately many of the houses are now empty but some have been restored to their original glory by the local art school.

 

The Castle Hotel Mandawa - just like the Exotic Marigold Hotel

 

 

A relaxing swim in the hotel pool

 

 

 

Internal courtyard lights

One of the best examples of restoration in the area is the Hotel Castle Mandawa, where we are staying. It was originally the home of the original maharaja. (The maharajas were stripped of their titles and pensions by the government in the 1970s). The Maharaja’s family still own the castle. It is owned by 2 brothers – one side is derelict and the other side a profitable hotel with fabulous accommodation and surroundings, including an impressive swimming pool, which we availed ourselves of immediately on arrival. In some ways it has the feeling of the Exotic Marigold Hotel.

As I type this there are sounds of distant Hindi music floating from a wedding we saw being set up on our walk and the call to prayer from the local mosque.

M&M
mm_smith@bigpond.net.au

　

　

 

DAY 1 : INDIA : Delhi

Weather : smoggy and fine : max 30o

Trouble-free travel day yesterday with all our luggage and ticketing processed in Canberra. Mark enjoyed good leg room in exit seats on 2 Cathay flights, so we arrived in relaxed state at midnight in New Delhi. We were met by one of the representatives of the company, who have organised our itinerary. Vishu transported us to our hotel, Nidra, close to the international airport. Perfect for our needs - clean, quiet, attentive staff and an excellent restaurant.

 

Vishu greeted us with traditional marigold wreaths.

 

We were able to organise a driver today to take us through the hectic traffic to central Delhi for our first foray. We were here 40 years ago and now it resembles more of a construction site and the smog has certainly increased. Much of the city has been partitioned off for the development of a Metro system, which will run for 86 kilometres when completed. There are signs of the Moghul and English occupations, with fine buildings and gardens but much of the city is in dusty disrepair.

 

Government building built by British

 

Gardens near the Congress building

We visited two markets. The Dilli Haat is an outdoor market with cottage industry specialities from all over India. We enjoyed chatting to stall holders - most wanted to discuss cricket at length as Australia is on tour here but of course, they were trying to nail a sale. Very persistent salesmen but I was prepared and it was fun bargaining. The main line was that I was their first customer of the day and if I bought something then they would have good luck. The second store was closer to the centre of the city and is run by the government and it is The Cottage Industry Emporium. Here prices are set and there is a good range of local products.

 

Dilli Haat Market

The traffic was amazing. There is absolute chaos - lane changing - 5 lanes to 3 lanes regardless of road markings. Some people just blast their horn and drive through blindly. Fortunately large lorries are restricted to travelling between 9pm and 6am otherwise the traffic would be at a permanent standstill. I was fascinated by all the signage along the way on billboards and on the side of cars. My favourite today was one advertising marriage websites - www.matrimonyrajput.com or www.matrimonysikh.com. When we were here 40 years ago there were columns and columns of marriage advertisements in the local rags...now it is global.

 

Every man for himself

 

After school traffic joins the throng

Tomorrow we head for Rajasthan...

M&M
mm_smith@bigpond.net.au