DAY 30 : SPAIN : TRABADELO to O CEBREIRO - 18.4 kms - 5 hours

Distance walked in France and Spain so far : 1361.6 kms (64 days)
Weather : misty rain, fog, snow

Today we walked from Trabadelo

   

We walked along the main highway for a few kms...

through small villages....

Who could believe it - walking out of a small panateria (bakery)
in Vega de Valcarce was Fr. Brian - a friend whom we had
met originally in Condom in France and the last time we
saw him was when we had a meal together in St Jean.
Such a wonderful surprise!

Vibrant autumn colours

The rocky climb up to O Cebreiro.

Spectacular views of the valley as we climbed.

O Cebreiro with its slate and shale cottages. Many of the
buildings are thatched. This village was created in the 20th
century  to service the camino traffic. It has a Celtic feel
with shops playing pipe music and many artefacts...
and of course, food of Galicia.

Sitting in a cafe and it began to snow!

We are staying in the Municipal Albergue - 104 beds,
modern and purpose-built, 5 euros each.

M&M

5/11/12

Our email : mm_smith@bigpond.net.au 

DAY 29 : SPAIN : CACABELOS to TRABADELO - 21.2 kms - 6.5 hours

Distance walked in France and Spain so far : 1343.3 kms (63 days)
Weather : misty rain, overcast : 11o

Our destination today was Trabadelo

 

Bit of a climb today but it was worth it for the views from
Pena Roldan (930 m)
 

 

Cacebelos has a population of 5,000. It is an attractive
town with lots of accommodation and pride in its local
wines. This is an old mill house over the fast flowing
Rio Cua.

 

It is Sunday and the guns were blasting as we entered
the countryside. This farmer and his faithful dogs
were successful in shooting some rabbits.

 

Autumn colours over the vineyards with the impending
weather coming in from the west.

 

We passed through the town of Villafranca del Bierzo.
It has a population of 5,000 and was a major centre for
pilgrims who wanted dispensation but could not reach
Santiago.

 

 

We made a quick ascent from Villafranca - hard work- then
we enjoyed the view along the valley. We descended to
Trabadelo through massive chestnut forests.

 

Families were out collecting chestnuts and some roasting
them on ad hoc fires in the forest.

 

Our accommodation tonight is a private albergue - 6 euros
each. Trabadelo is no more than a highway truck stop but the
albergue is perfect and the local restaurant/ bar has
all that we need -warmth, reasonable menu, interesting characters
 and wifi. Tomorrow  we have  another large climb and we are in a
 sensible  situation to  reduce the impact by having a shorter day today.

 

Mark had pulpo (octopus) for dinner - a specialty of this
Galician area.

 

 

 

M&M

4/10/12

Our email address : mm_smith@bigpond.net.au 

 

 

 

DAY 28 : SPAIN : MOLINASECA to CACABELOS - 21.4 kms - 6 hours

Distance walked so far in France and Spain : 1322.1 kms  (62 days)

Weather : rain, rain, rain - 10o


As the next two days in our guidebook were for 30+ kms we have decided to convert that to 3 days walking 20+ kms. This has meant considering some smaller towns for accommodation. As luck would have it, one of the towns we chose had a boutique hotel with favourable reviews. We were able to secure the last double room for tonight (at special pilgrim rates) and it is amazing value, tasteful, rustic decor and excellent facilities - and a free jazz concert in the bar tonight (The Red Jazz Monkeys) - if we manage to stay up until 11.30, when it begins. It is certainly the best tonic after a day's walking in wet and cold conditions. The hostal is called Moncloa de San Lazaro, check out the website on www.moncloadesanlazaro.com.

Today we walked through the town of Ponferrada

 

Wet weather all day - good day's walking with our
efficient wet weather gear.

 

Ponferrada appeared to be thriving town. 62,000 pop.
It has an electrical power station. Many new apartments
in outlying suburbs and adjoining towns.

 

In the centre of the town is a 12th century
Templar castle which has been renovated.
Ponfederra came under the protection of
the Templar Order in 1178. The order was
outlawed in 1312 and dispanded by the
Catholic Church fearful of its power.

 

We stopped in a warm cafe and had some gorgeous
hot chocolate and churros (deep- fried delicacy)

 

Local cemetries in pristine condition and full of flowers
after families visiting for All Souls' Day.

 

 

Finding remnants of the grape harvest - Bierzo wines.

 

 

 

The very welcoming hostal of Moncloa de San Lazaro
in Cacabelos

 

Our amazing room - I was in that spa in 5 minutes of
arriving!!

 

Immaculate gardens, 2 restaurants, fascinating rustic decor.
Definitely no need to leave the premises until morning as
all our needs are definitely met here...even the BBC World
News Channel.

Families arrive with their young children at the bar/cafe in
 the early evening to enjoy  the holiday weekend and
 the music,  which begins at 11.30 pm.
What amazing stamina the Spanish have!

 

 

M&M

3/11/12

Our email : mm_smith@bigpond.net.au 





 



 

 

DAY 27 : SPAIN : RABANAL DEL CAMINO to MOLINASECA - 26.5 kms - 6.5 hours

Distance walked so far in France and Spain : 1300.7 kms (61 days)
Weather : wind, rain, snow (in distance) and sun intermittently : 11o

Tomorrow we will walk through Ponferrada

 

Our route today - tired knees tonight.

Leaving Rabanal del Camino at sunrise

 

One of our first sights today was the view of snow-topped
mountains. We were pleased that we had all our layers
of clothes on. It has been so much fun shopping for so many
of us at the Chinese 2 euros shops buying gloves, buffs,
 scarves for next to nothing. My best buy has been a 3 euro
 thermos flask which fits in my water bottle holder -
wonderful for these cold days.
 

 

Mark standing at the Cruz de Ferro, It is
a  simple iron cross at 1,504m and has
become an enduring symbol along the
Camino.

 

A cow dressed for the occasion in the
fabulous scenery of the Mountains of
Leon.

 

Lunch at a welcoming cafe in the little town of El Acebo.
There was an open fire and excellent atmosphere and
wonderful food - a hanburger with the lot served in a
French loaf with Spanish cheese, fine beef and salad.

 

For the past few weeks we have been walking
on paths and beside fields of huge round rocks
but today it has changed and all the paths were
shale/ slate. (Reflected in the building material
of the houses in the area) Here we are heading
down from 1500m altitude we reached today.

 

The welcome sight of Molinaseca as we descended down
the mountain.

 

Lots of bars and accommodation available in this pretty
place. This weekend many of the places are booked out
as families visit relatives for the All Saints/ All Souls holiday.

 

With one of the albergues closed for the
season we were fortunate to find pleasant
double room above a local bar for 25 euros.

 

 

Dinner with John and Maugie in the warm surrroundings
of the El Palacio hotel.

Maugie's choice a local delicassy : Botilla de el Bierzo
(thick pork sausage locally marinated and served with
boiled potatoes and vegetables - haggis inspired!)

 

M&M

2/11/12

Our email. :  mm_smith@bigpond.net.au 

DAY 26 : SPAIN : ASTORGA to RABANAL DEL CAMINO - 21.4 kms - 4.5 hours

Distance walked in France and Spain so far : 1274.2 kms (60 days)

Weather : 7o at 8 am but deteriorated into a rainy, windy (westerly) day


We were very excited to start this section of the camino. We move from the plain now into the hills of Galicia. Traditionally, pilgrims have to walk the last 100 kms of the camino to receive the recognition of the compostela, given when you present your credentiale (our stamped passport - with our French tampons and Spanish sellos) in Santiago. Many more people, therefore, complete this section.

Today we arrived in Rabanal del Camino

 

We have left the plain and have started climbing into
the hills towards the province of Galicia.
 

 

Leaving Astorga via the cathedral

 

It was a great walking path today, which was just as well
as it was wet with a strong prevailing westerly wind.

 

This quirky bar was in the small village of
El Ganso, which is a crumbling down place. It was
a Magarato (possibly originally an ancient Berber/
 Moor  people)  village, which has been semi-
abandoned.
 

 

Full of activity with walkers sheltering from
the cold wind. Delicious tortillas!





 

Arriving in Rabanal del Camino - a beautifully
presented village. It has many hostels and
albergues to cope with the thousands of
pilgrims that pass through every year.
 

Arriving in the cold we were drawn towards the only open
bar/ restaurant, which also has rooms available (with
bath!!!!!!). We didn't even try to find the albergue -
 but have spent a very pleasant afternoon in this warm
 establishment.

 

 

Sharing a table with Maugie and Claudia 

 

Before dinner in the hotel restaurant, we braved the rain and cold and attended Vespers the 12th century church of Santa Maria, built by the Knights' Templars. Benedictine monks sing the service in Gregorian chant. Simple but beautiful.

 

 

M&M

1/11/12

Our email : mm_smith@bigpond.net.au