JULY 2023 : DAY 38 : ATHENS : Artemida

After a cancelled taxi reservation and no Sunday airport buses we panicked (mainly me!) that on an early Sunday morning we might find it difficult ( nay, impossible) to get to the airport on time. But as luck would have it, a taxi was passing as we exited our little hotel.

In fact, we were too early for check-in and could have a relaxing breakfast of spanakopita.

I sent a message to Mr Grumpy from Hotel Anastasia and love his reply! A man of few words.

Direct flight to Athens

We flew Aegean Airlines (luggage included)

Rhodes Town airport is by the windy Aegean Sea with the extensive Turkish coastline in the distance.

Two of the musicians (bass and drums) from the festival were in front of us in the queue, so we had a chat and said how much we’d enjoyed it.

I booked a hotel near Athens airport, indicated by the blue arrow, for our final night with airport transfers.

https://comfortstay.gr/el/

It’s in the middle of nowhere but like an oasis. A beautiful boutique hotel.

Homemade moussaka and salad for lunch in the courtyard with a tangle of cats under the table.

The manager of the hotel suggested we visit the small town of Artemida, a seaside town five minutes away for a swim and dinner.

It is not a tourist town but a Mecca for Athenians on hot summer days.

We enjoyed our swim.

Dinner was exceptional at a beachside restaurant - very popular - staffed by a multitude of waiters, cheery and energetic as they negotiated traffic to deliver dishes to tables.

We had a mixed seafood platter, Greek salad. Then we had fruit and Greek donuts dripped with chocolate as a complimentary surprise dessert.

A perfect ending to our holiday 

M&M

JULY 2023 : DAY 37 : RHODES : Rhodes Town

Rhodes Town

Breakfast in the garden

We sat with a Melbourne couple

Our host said ‘I don’t like Australia - too many Greeks’

A family of tortoises in the garden

A very leisurely morning on a hop on hop off bus - but we just went for the 45 minute ride.

Spectacular views of the town and coast line and full tourist hotels

The harbour buildings

1522 Ottoman mosque of  Murad Reís and cemetery where Muslim sailors were buried

Towers now incorporated into tourist landscape along the coast, were originally constructed by the Knights of St John as watchtowers.

The bronze sculpture of Diagoras, 5th century boxer, in the Psaropoula Square

The Aquarium

The Acropolis of Rhodes (under repair), 5th century BC  on Monte Smith

A very pleasant morning and lunch with Phil and Paul before they set off on flights to Berlin and Bournemouth.

A late afternoon swim

Dinner near the harbour at Hotel Aktaiou 

Sunset on the harbour

Another enjoyable evening at the Jazz Festival

M&M

JULY 2023 : DAY 36 : RHODES : Rhodes Town

Rhodes Town 

Our last breakfast at Giorgio’s 

We took a taxi with Ros and Chris to Rhodes Town - 40 minutes

This is a map of the old town, fortified by the Knights of St John/Hospitaliers/Crusaders in the 14th century

We had a walk around Mandraki port, with views to the castle/palace. One of the distinguishing features is the windmills. Only three remain. In the 14th century they were used for grinding grain for export. Eventually they were converted to windmills and fortification towers.

There are seven gates. We entered by the impressive Marine Gate. During the time of the Knights each gate was guarded by a different garrison, which successfully repelled the Ottoman forces, until 1522.

Lots of activity in the wide plazas and narrow streets. Many rooftop restaurants. It reminded us a little of the main square in Marrakech.

In the centre of the town are the ruins of the 14th century church, Our Lady of Burgh. The home church of the Knights of St John and the oldest remaining building of that era. Unfortunately it was bombed by the Germans in 1943 in the Battle of Rhodes, when Rhodes was under Italian occupation.



We found a lovely rooftop restaurant for lunch, La Verandah, where there was a cool breeze.

Delicious salads.

The castle or more recently the palace dominates the skyline. 

The site was originally the citadel of the Knights of St John but was destroyed in 1522. Mussolini rebuilt it in 1937, furnishing it with mosaics and statues from Kos.

We toured the ‘palace’ and enjoyed the artefacts in the small museum, which gave a more authentic picture of medieval life under the Knights. They put Rhodes on the trading route, developed educational institutions, built churches, and guaranteed their citizen’s protection against marauding pirates and foreign  powers.

Historical paintings of the harbour, daily life and the defending the walled town against Ottoman invaders during the Knights’ era

Dinner down by the beach

We chose some new dishes - a prawn cheese casserole and veal and veg.

Tonight was the first night of the Rhodes Jazz Festival - a week of free concerts at 9pm just inside the city walls. The first band were bouzouki, double bass and hand drums. 

We’ll go tomorrow night too!




M&M

JULY 2023 : DAY 35 : RHODES : Lindos

Lindos

The welcoming sight as we step from our courtyard.

Another delicious breakfast at Giorgio’s

Eggs Benedict with salmon

Fruit salad with Greek yoghurt and nuts

Back to St Paul’s Bay for a swim

This afternoon we spent with our brother and sister-in-law at their Villa Eos. Another scorching day.

Meanwhile Jenny stayed in her villa, cooling down in their spa. This was the scene when we dropped around to say ‘happy birthday’. Five strays live at their little villa and cat food is left in the kitchen as part of the package.

We often see this random hen in the alleyways near us- very self sufficient animals in the town - I wonder how some survive in the winter

A delicious family meal at yet another rooftop restaurant, Staephanos. A special meal for Jenny’s 64th birthday.

M&M