Today we have another night in Sospel and various walks are recommended in the area, as well as a self-guided walking tour of the town. We were pleased to have an opportunity to do this as we are enjoying our hotel and the town has much to offer. Another plus was that there was rain again last night so we were unsure if the wet weather would continue.
A misty morning in the valley.
We walked around the town, beginning here at Place de la Calbraia, the social hub, it seemed. This fountain dates back to the Salt Road days, when the lower section would be used to water the mules and the upper was for the town's household needs.
This is a 1682 map of the town. It had walls surrounding the left bank town. Due to the benefits of the Salt Road it became a major prestigious town with baroque style buildings.
Part of the wall still survives today.
Place de Saint-Michel.
The cathedral dedicated to Saint Michel was built in 1641 in the town's heyday.
Baroque church with breathtaking colour scheme. St Michael slaying the devil on the left and an exquisite statue of Joan of Arc on the right.
In the chapel on the right a cabinet with various (saints') relics - always a fascination of mine.
Unusual stained glass windows
11 o'clock and the weather seemed fine enough for our walk. But which route?
On an early wander this morning I spied a fort on top of a nearby hill/mountain which if accessible by road would be suitable for walking even in the rain.
I asked at the Tourist Office and discovered it was Fort Barbonnet (850m). It was begun in 1883 to protect the valley of Sospel. It has two large gun-turrets which secured the area. But there is no access to the public EXCEPT for one day a year. Next Sunday, 20th September, is French Patrimoine Day when everything is open to celebrate France's heritage.
So we decided to walk up Mont Agaisen (750m), which is directly behind the right bank of the river, La Bevera.
We climbed steps from the town meeting parents and grandparents collecting school students for lunch.
A well-defined path, obviously a popular route for walkers.
Unfortunately not stunning views of the town or Fort Barbonnet.
Not much colour now it is autumn but these contrasted with other more bland foliage.
Mark captured this butterfly among the leaf litter.
We returned by the same path, unable to find the correct signpost for the full circular route but we were relieved that it had remained fine for the 3 hours and we'd had some exercise.
Back through the Salt Tax tollway on Le Point-Vieux.
To the Place Saint-Nicolas, which housed the Town Hall in 1793 and the sculpture of the Pascal Lamb symbolised divine protection. The fountain was installed in 1788.
A (yet another!) celebratory drink.
Along the river there are houses with 'trompe l'oeil' facades with rich decoration painted in the 20th century. Most of them were restored by Italian craftsmen in the 1990s. Reminiscent of Sospel's Italian past. It was, like the other towns we've visited, returned to France from Itlay in 1947.
Chestnuts ready for harvest.
Our hotel has an outdoor eating area across the road by the river. (Only closed on Tuesdays and Wednesdays - the 2 nights we are here.)
Underneath the outside eating area I discovered a lovely pool. A shame it has not been warm enough to use this week.
Walking around in the nether regions of the hotel, trying to find the entrance to the pool, I found a mini museum of artefacts related to its history. The first entry in the hotel visitors' book is in 1937.
Dinner at La Mordagne, a creperie and grill restaurant. Very friendly and informal.
M&M
1 comment:
Hello again Meg and Mark. One cannot have too many celebratory drinks while walking as much as you have! I will think of the scenic French countryside while we are kept busy at work by yet another new Prime Minister. N&W
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