DAY 5 : INDIA : Jaisalmer

Weather : hot, dry with pleasant breeze, 30+

 

A day in Jaisalmer

 

 

Our excellent guide today was Nariz.

 

 

 

Beautiful morning as we leave from our hotel

 

 

Jaisalmer has an artificial lake excavated in the fourteenth century and originally was filled by rain water. Now it is fed through the Indira Gandhi Canal with waters from the Himalayas.

The impressive gate through to the lake was donated by a rich courtesan of the maharajas in the nineteenth century.

 

 

The maharaja and his family picnicked and bathed in these pavillions on the lake.

 

 

 

A surprise artist in one of the pavilions.

Indians are known for their enterprise and we haven't been disappointed at any site with

enthusiasm and finding an opportunity to make some money.

 

 

 

View to the Jaisalmer Fort.

Jaisal, the first ruler, built this golden sandstone fort on a huge sand dune in the 12th century. Unfortunately, water is seeping into the sand and undermining the foundations. The owners of the properties refuse to leave their prosperous businesses so the problem cannot be rectified.

 

 

 

The fort houses the original maharaja and maharani palaces.

 

 

There is activity in and around the fort. A little tight-rope walker intrigues tourists.

 

 

The maharaja's palace, now a museum, from the inside the fort.

The descendants now live in a large house in the town.

 

 

Not only did wives throw themselves on funeral pyres of their husbands, but in war, if the maharaja was killed there was an agreement that the women of the household would commit suicide ('johra') to avoid the evil intensions of marauding troops. Before they died they put handprints on the wall - here are some that have survived.

 

 

There are 7 Jain temples in the fort. Jains were the successful business families of Jaisalmer - dealing mainly in opium and silver. Their wealth has provided for the establishment of the temples.

 

  

 

The main tenet of Jainism is non-violence. Strict Jains are vegans and will not even eat vegetables grown below the ground as the harvest of these foods may have resulted in the death of insects. They have no main god but 24 prophets - all numbered and with special symbols. They dress in white to worship.

They were and are wealthy entrepreneurs refusing to be involved in any activity, like farming, that might result in the death of living things, including flies, mosquitoes. Even driving a car was thought fraught with problems and they even ate before sunset so that they would not accidentally kill insects attracted by artificial light while they were eating.

 

 

Outside the fort fresh food markets.

 

 

Cows rule..even when they decide to enter a shop.

 

 

If a daughter marries then the family carries that band of honour with a special sign painted on the outside of the house with details of names and date of the happy occasion.

 

 

A huge haveli with 5 sections for each son built by a Jain merchant who dealt in the opium trade. This trade stopped with Partition in 1947 when the borders into Pakistan were closed. Locals tend to rebuild new houses in the traditional style, so the unique craft and architecture continues.

 

 

A camel ride 40 minutes from Jaisalmer in the desert to Sam, a huge dune. Very popular activity on the tourist agenda. Hundreds of tourists joined us at sunset.

 

 

Gypsy families walk the dunes selling drinks, chips and earning money by dancing and playing music.

 

 

A rooftop restaurant in the town - delicious food on a balmy night overlooking the fort.

 

 

M&M

 

mm_smith@bigpond.net.au