DAY 20 : INDIA : Singalila Ridge Trek : Stage 1

Weather : 2- 12o, changeable - warm, clear, to foggy, freezing conditions

Some good (obviously very fit) friends suggested that the Singalila Ridge walk, only an hour's drive from Darjeeling, may be a good practice and acclimatisation for a our Nepalese trek, which is the next stage of our holiday. It hadn't twigged that an obvious part of walking in and near the Himalayas is that there are steep  breathless ascents and corresponding knee-crippling descents - not to mention the altitude. We love walking ..but this was a baptism of fire.

 

The Singalila Ridge walk is on the Nepali-Indian border.

We decided to do a 3-day trek. We found out later most walkers do it in 5.

 

 

We set off from Manebhanjang, which was the first of many Indian army checkpoints we had to present our passports and declare our intentions. Here our guide, Dawa, employed a local porter, Arpon, to carry our main pack and some food supplies.

Our first section of the climb was to the top of the hill above - 2kms and it took us 2 hours to get there.

 

 

Along the route are tea houses where you can have sweet cups of tea and coffee and hot snacks (soups, noodles, dhal). This is such a valuable source of income for these otherwise subsistence farmers.

 

 

Always fascinating catching up with other travellers and their experiences.

 

 

Megma, one of the small hamlets we passed through, Meg means cloud and Ma mother.

Cloud mother - I really like that, goes quite well with Mark's new title of Baba.

 

 

The path is paved in parts with uneven pavers to give traction to the endless stream of Land Rovers and pony teams. We were amazed by the rhododendron and magnolia trees which shone against the otherwise green or rocky backdrop. "A little bit of heaven" as Dawa described it.

 

 

 

Our first night was in Tumling in a family tea house. After a sunny morning the fog descended and with it, freezing conditions. 9 kms took us 5 hours, with a lunch break of noodles - and did I mention, tea?

 

 

 

The family plus all and sundry gather in the kitchen to keep warm around handmade coal fires. Note the little dog - very popular - we even found a chook asleep by the fire.

 

 

A delicious meal cooked methodically with basic facilities.

 

 

A meal of soup, pakoras, rice, vegetables and chicken eaten in candle light. They have only had electricity for 6 months and still use it frugally.

 

 

With the sudden fall in temperature we put on all the thermal gear we had. Our accommodation included an ensuite with western unconnected toilet, unconnected hand basin with no floor outlet for bucket showers. Despite all that we slept very well and managed to stay reasonably clean and warm.

 

M&M

mm_smith@bigpond.net.au