DAY 3 : INDIA : Bikaner

 

Destination : Bikaner

Weather : fine, hazy and hot, 30+

Another long day of driving west through desert country. Water is a huge problem as all of the traditional wells, dug as deep as 700 feet are dry.

Traditional wells are marked by four columns 

and were used as a meeting place when they were operational. 

 

Wealthy business men have cultivated stretches of the land, spending extraordinary amounts of money to dig bores and pumping stations. Unfortunately, most of these investors live in Mumbai so the locals don't benefit from the infrastructure as much as they could. Large clay pots are filled with what water there is and left in shaded cages along the road for locals to use. Fortunately we are provided with bottled water from our driver and at all hotels gratis.

 Marked contrast of desert and cultivated land.

Remarkable that the soil can be brought to life so quickly.

 

Agricultural workers live in these small reed huts with families.

 

We broke our journey at Fatepur near Mandawa. Fatepur also benefited from the Spice Trade and many merchants built havelis (stylish Rajput houses) but now they lay abandoned and have been left to deteriorate. A French artist, Nadine Le Prince, has faithfully restored one of these and now divides her time between Rajasthan and and France. We were met by a young French couple who are acting as guides while Nadine is in France. They found the position on the internet and will spend 2 months in Fatepur, support by house staff. It is a comfortable home with modern kitchen, laundry etc tucked away.

 

Nadine La Prince's renovated haveli in Fatepur.

 

 

Beautiful artefacts adorn the house including this wedding litter,

 which transports a bride to the wedding.

  

Our destination today was Bikaner. A prosperous town with signs of growth and style. Its development has depended on its camel trade. When the Silk Route ended the town was able to maintain viability by selling camels to the British. There is still an army regiment that patrol the desert borders on camels with Pakistan. There is a large military base here and they host many special operations because of their proximity to the desert.

The Indian government also has a large professional camel farm used for breeding and studying camels. We were taken on a tour by the company's contact here, Vijay. There are large pens for new borns, young camels and a large breeding program with stud 'lucky' camels. There is a small museum, store with camel products and a camel cafe where they serve camel tea, coffee, milkshakes and ice cream (kulfi). We opted for the ice cream and it was thick and very tasty.

Camel nursery

 

 

'Lucky' stud camels - according to our guide

 

Out hotel tonight is another maharaja's palace. As in the one in Madawa, the family still own this residence. In fact, they live in the grounds in sumptuous accommodation nearby. The palace is very impressive with many wings, a large courtyard, private sections on the rooftops, a beautifully maintained pool and beautifully groomed grounds. We have a room with access to the roof and decorated in nineteenth century style. Initially we had no water - I think the pipes in a building of this size and age must be a nightmare - but all was rectified. A quick dip in the pool was just what I needed.

The Laxmi Niwas Palace Hotel

www.laxminivaspalace.com

 

Hotel rooftop

We had planned to eat in the town but after a hot and tiring day we opted for the hotel buffet in the courtyard restaurant, which was just a gorgeous setting on a hot evening. Our favourite dish was fish with a ginger, 'chilly', garlic sauce. This was accompanied by a local music group and a female dancer, who delighted diners by dancing with pots balanced on her head. We seem to be the only English speakers travelling west at this time - large groups of French, German and Italians. Becoming mindful of the extra calories... but what a way to go...

 

Traditional music and dancing in the hotel courtyard

 

 

Enjoying the ambience on a warm evening

 

 

Some of my Hindi is coming back and I'm enjoying a bit of banter with Radhey, our driver, and the guides. I'm reading India Rising : tales from a changing nation / Oliver Balch. A interesting perspective.

M&M
mm_smith@bigpond.net.au