DAY 4 : INDIA : Jaisalmer

 

Weather : hot, hazy and 30+

 

 

We met Vijay, our guide, after breakfast and he took us to the Bikaner Fort. This is the best example of a fort which has remained operational since its construction in the twelth century. It is built in the same pink sandstone as the palace, which is now the Laxmi Niwas Palace Hotel, where we stayed. The maharaja and his family lived in the fort until 1911 when the palace was built. It holds fascinating history of the city. The Rajput rulers in this area negotiated well making alliances with the Moghul invaders and the British colonial regime and the city prospered because of it. The fort houses city administration and an impressive museum with weapons, modes of transport and musical instruments. The maharaja's quarters and formal areas are still in tact with sumptuous decorations including Belgium glass and gems - floral designs from the Moghul era and historical murals from Hindu times.Muslim artists never depict human form.

 

Vijay, our guide, and his cousin-in-training

 

 

 

Bikaner Fort

 

 

The opulence of the Maharaja's throne room

 

Then we were on the road again - a 5 hour drive on perfectly flat terrain. There were no large towns but only scattered communities - some reed houses and others small flat- topped box-like buildings. Many of these are settled by Muslims, who have come across from the Pakistani border nearby. Sheep and goats, mustard seed crops, simple brickworks and makeshift workshops cutting pink sandstone. Much of the area is without electricity and water. Water is transported in large steel containers via camels to communities. You have a feeling that this is how life has been for hundreds of years and many of these communities will continue so for many years to come. They go about their daily business, gathering fuel, thinking nothing of walking long distances for stores or to school. Regardless of the heat, there always seems to be people walking or working in the fields or tending sheep and goat flocks or just chatting on their haunches under a tree on the roadside.

 

 

Wild deer

 

 

Another wild creature rarely seen - the blue bull

 

 

Another lovely surprise when we reached our destination of Jaisalmer. It is known as 'The Golden City' because of the yellow sandstone buildings.

Our hotel is a modern one but in traditional style. It is the Fort Rajwada Hotel

www.rajwadafort.com. It is very comfortable, with lovely pool, and views of the city. We were able to sit on the rooftop and watch the sunset - very peaceful. We're looking forward to seeing more of the hustle and bustle of the city tomorrow. It's so different for us to be travelling in such a sanitised manner, having backpacked in India 40 years ago. But travelling such long distances in such desolate terrain, we are appreciating the easiness of travel with a local guide and driver...and not to mention having a full-time Hindi speaker to practise with as well.

 

Fort Rajwada Hotel

 

 

Fabulous pool and venue for meals

 

 

Sunset over Jaisalmer Fort

 

 

An unexpected dancing lesson during dinner

 

It is ironic that with no facilities for agricultural communities nearby, there are 95 channels on our TV in the hotel - one channel seems solely dedicated for back-to-back reruns of Packed to the Rafters and 3 or 4 cricket channels, one showing Australian interstate one day games!

M&M

mm_smith@bigpond.net.au