We are about to commence the Coast to Coast walk

Congratulations to Jet2 and British rail for their efficient service. We arrived at Manchester Airport and within 30 minutes were en route by train to Lancaster station. We wanted to spend a night in Lancaster as we lived there for a year in 1975-6 when Mark studied at the university and I shelved books in the university library. The town and the university are thriving, unlike the depressed state in the ‘70s when Lancaster was trying to re-invent itself after the close of the cotton mills and industry for over 100 years. The university was then was one of the major employers in the area.

Lancaster Castle

Lancaster skyline

We met our friends, Julie and Bob, at our pub accommodation and then took the train up the north-west coast of England to St Bees. A dismal day, may I say – rain, fog and a grey, forbidding coastline. It is a desolate location…or so we thought!

Departing Lancaster station for St Bees

Arrival at St Bees

All our B&Bs have been pre-booked and we arrived in our sodden state at the door of Abbey Farm in the village. A 16^th century, fully renovated 5 bedroomed house – which is absolutely divine with every convenience and the most charming hostess. Janet met her husband walking the Coast to Coast route and they decided to move to St Bees and start up a B&B about 7 years ago. Exquisitely decorated and furnished, with views to the surrounding hills and headlands. All beautifully green (just like a Derwent pencil colour) – and why wouldn’t it be, with their excessive rainfall!

Our B&B at St B

With our hostess, Janet, at Abbey Farm

We walked to the beach for lunch at a remote café – extreme low tide – just like a set for a ‘40s movie.

Windswept coastline south of St Bees

St Bees coastline

Then we discovered the local priory church. It was built originally in 12^th century by the Normans, who were inspired supposedly to build a church to mark the presence of Irish religious hermit, St Bega, who fled to this area, and for whom St Bees is named.The church was reclaimed by the Benedictines, until in the 19^th century it was transformed into a training facility for Anglican clergy and now it is a loved Anglican parish church – with wonderful documentation of its history. There is a fascinating graveyard and children’s garden, with extraordinary sculptures.

St Bees' Priory Church

Inside the Priory

Across the road is St Bees School, established in the 16^th century. It is now a co-ed boarding school and has many international students – many from China. It is such a surprise in this out of the way location. Janet said that this house was built to support the school when it was established.

History of St Bees School

St Bees School

We feel that this B&B has set such a high standard – that we can’t imagine what the next 18 places will be like. So despite the weather, we have our wet-weather gear at the ready and are so excited about the prospect of the landscapes and the small villages we will be encountering.

Toad-in-the-hole (including Cumbrian sausage)

We are just back from a delicious meal at a local pub. Our hostess recommended The Queen’s Hotel – and again, if we expected something second-rate from a seemingly backwater town, we were very wrong. A great menu with delicious results – broccoli and stilton soup, goat’s cheese and caramelised onion tart, lamb shanks, and an extraordinary toad in the hole. We recommend St Bees to all travellers.