DAY 1 : ENGLAND : COAST TO COAST

Full English breakfast (including haggis) this morning as we checked the weather forecast – showers likely.

Full English breakfast, including haggis

Accepting the inevitable, we packed our daypacks with clothes for every contingency. Our hostess gave us some advice as we were walking out the door – if we needed to relieve ourselves on the route make sure that we (the men) don’t ‘point their compasses at any white stones’ as it might be a sheep and there might be dire consequences. Miraculously, the sun came out as we reached the beach to dip our shoes in the Irish Sea and we collected a stone, which we will deposit on the east coast when we arrive in about 3 weeks. This is a custom of the walk.

Official starting point of the Coast to Coast at St Bees

Dipping toes in the Irish Sea

It was a long day’s walk – 8 hours – around the cliff-tops along the  coast and then turning eastward through small villages and up 352m to Dent Fell and then down again – the guidebook warned that it was so steep to take it carefully in case of ankle sprains – we were more concerned with knee injuries. We were so grateful for the fine weather but it didn’t lessen the chance of avoiding a muddy trek. It didn’t take long to get used to the muddy path, enriched by cow and sheep manure.

Walking up Dent Fell

Walking down Dent Fell

Muddy boots

We are finding the locals very friendly and some are hilarious. A case in point was the owner of Walker’s Pop In Café – a self-appointed information point and oracle of local knowledge of Cumbria – whom we encountered walking through the depressed village of Moor Row. With the closure of their local post office, community hall and pub, she had taken it upon herself to open a café in her house and converted her backyard into an eatery. And she liked to talk…

Getting to know some of the locals

Now, we have arrived at the Fox and Hound in Ennerdale Bridge, a very comfortable pub – with bath – YES! Sore and slightly sunburnt but no blisters and very satisfied with our efforts. Now for spinach and Wensleydale cheese tart and Cumberland sausage…

The Fox and Hounds for tonight

M&M