DAY 10: ENGLAND : Reeth to Richmond - 23 kms - 4 1/2 hrs

Gunshots were sounding as we set off this morning. Mark and Julie found out yesterday, as they mingled with the locals at the teashop in Gunnerside, that today is known as Glorious 12th as it is the beginning of the Grouse shooting season, being the 12th August. It was a bit unnerving as we ambled
unprotected in the Yorkshire countryside.

Still in the beautiful Swaledale Valley for most of the day, we first came upon the ruins of Marrick Priory. In the 1970s, when we were living in Lancaster, I had come with a group from the University Chaplaincy Centre on a retreat here. Now it is an outdoor education centre with no access. The ruins are still visible and are reminder of the Benedictine nunnery founded in 1154. It was the scene of a romantic episode in 1535 when a beautiful pageboy arrived in a storm and was given shelter by the nuns. It was soon discovered that it was actually Isabella Beaufort, a Court favourite, fleeing from the lascivious advances of Henry V111. She married a local noble. The priory was dissolved by Henry in 1540.

Marrick Priory

Farmers were baling hay in the fields today. They must be delighted with their productivity over the last few days during the dry weather.

Making hay while the sun shines

We passed through a few small towns and before climbing up Applegarth Scar and then on to the lower Whitcliffe Scar. This was where Robert Willance, a Richmond draper, got carried away in a hunt in 1606 and fell over the lip of the scar (ridge), killing his horse but he miraculously survived only suffering a broken leg. It had to be amputated and he had it solemnly buried in St Mary’s churchyard and he was eventually reunited with it after a long life. He donated a silver chalice to Richmond to celebrate his lucky escape from death.

Applegarth Scar

As we entered the town of Richmond, descending Whitcliffe Scar, there is a wonderful quote on a stone marker from Alfred Wainwright, our hero: "There is a thrilling view of Richmond ahead. Richmond is a town, unlike others, a place unique, rich in relics of the past, steeped in a long history that still lingers in the ramifications of its castle and the narrow alleys and quaint buildings that huddle in the shelter of the massive Norman keep. The castle, dramatically poised on a cliff, high above the Swale, is a dominating feature. It is a town of reminders of times long past. It is too good to be by-passed."

First view of Richmond

I couldn’t have expressed it better myself! What a glorious place. We entered the market square and were fascinated by the historic buildings and the gorgeous pubs.

Lunch in the Market Square

We had lunch in the sunshine at The King Head before locating our B&B at French Gate. This area developed when French stonemasons were brought to Richmond to build the castle in the 11th century. The French Gate Guest House has a lovely aspect with picture windows overlooking the town, As an aside, for you poets and music lovers, The Sweet Lass of Richmond Hill by Leonard McNally was written for Miss Frances L'Anson, who lived across the road from here in the nineteenth century.

French Gate Guest House

View from breakfast room window

Tonight we plan to find a pub to watch the closing ceremony of the Olympics and if it's fine, see the meteor shower, which has been predicted for tonight. Tomorrow we have a rest day and look forward to looking around Richmond.