PARIS to LE PUY-EN-VELAY

We left Paris this morning boarding a 10am express to Lyons (2 hours) and then a 10 minute scramble to the connecting train to Le Puy-en-Velay (2 hours), which is the starting point of our next walk, La Via Podiensis.

Arriving in Le Puy-en-Velay

 

Ready for our next adventure

 

 For the first ten days we will follow this route to Conques where Julie and Bob will leave us and we will continue on through south-east France and over the Pyrenees to complete the Camino Frances in Santiago de Compostella. 

 

Via Podiensis - Le Puy-en-Velay to Conques
Stage 1 of the Camino de Santiago de Compostella

 

Le Puys-en-Velay is a major town in the Haute-Loire region in south-east France. It is 625m above sea level and has a population of 29,000 people. It is famous for its Chapel of Saint Michel d'Aiguilhe (the needle) which was built high on a rocky peak by Godescalc, Bishop of Le Puy, after his pilgrimage to Santiago in 951 AD. Le Puy is now one of the major starting points of the camino. It is noted for lentils and lace-making. It is also a very attractive town with narrow streets full of activity with interesting shops and cafes.




Le Puy-en-Velay with rocky outcrops caused by volcanic activity



We are staying  above the Agapi, a tea-house cafe, in Asian-style rooms, all assigned speciality tea names. We are in the Darjeeling room and Julie and Bob are in Yunnan. It is right in the middle of the old town and very convenient.

Our room is on the third floor

 

Up ancient narrow wooden steps to our room.
 Quite a feat with a heavy pack.

 

Our bedroom - not a square angle in this 16th century building

 

We had meal at a local restaurant, recommended for its local fare. A simple but filling meal. 

 

 

Local specialities - sausages and Le Puy lentils

 Tomorrow we intend to spend looking around the town before setting off on our walk on Sunday. It is quite cool today, being higher in the mountains, so it should be very pleasant hiking weather.

M&M
31/8/12
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DAY 7 : PARIS

Our final day today. We made preparations for our next stage - tickets - as well as haircuts, pedicures (essential to be a well-presented pilgrim!) and were able to enjoy some last minute sightseeing.

One of the places on the list was "L'Orangerie" in the Tuileries Garden. This is where the Monet's huge waterlily canvases are displayed. This is the home of the Walter-Guillaume collection, which includes works by Renoir, Picasso and Modigliani. A fabulous venue. Mark particularly liked some of the Andre Derain collection, some landscapes of small French towns - similar to towns we'll be walking through in the next few weeks.

Monet's Waterlilies at L'Orangerie

Andre Derain's La Route

Julie and Bob revisited one of their favourite restaurants in the Latin Les Papilles. They had eaten there with Nick 2 years ago when he was in Paris for the Wallaby Tour.

We walked from the Place de Concorde through the Opera district through the extensive  buildings of the Louvre and to the Latin Quarter for lunch.

 

Rodin's The Kiss overlooking Place de la Concorde

 

Creative entry to a Metro station

 

Sculptures in the Louvre

 Afterwards we wandered up to the Luxembourg Gardens - what a revelation they were! Full of holiday-makers and office workers having a lunch break. The palace and  gardens were designed by Marie de Medici (wife of Henry 1V), when she was widowed in 1615. She was homesick for the Pitti Palace where she had grown up in Florence and attempted to recreate it in Paris. When her son was crowned Louis X111 he exiled his mother to Germany, so she had little time to enjoy it.

Luxembourg Gardens

 

Luxembourg Palace designed by Marie de Medici

 

 

Hiring boats and sticks on the pond in the Luxembourg Gardens

 

 

The Eiffel Tower still keeps us spell-bound (we can even see it out of the bathroom port hole) and has been especially thrilling as it sparkles furiously on the hour (for five minutes) from 9 o'clock.

 

 

Sparkling lights on the Eiffel Tower on the hour after 9 pm.

 

So Paris :
It's all about the war - every war that France has won, lost or had an interest in - the monuments, the churches, the bridges, the main thoroughfares all are named to reflect this.

 It's about beauty - anything can be achieved - the monarchy over the centuries, Napoleon and his successors - all believed this and have created a most sumptuous city with gold plate gleaming from rotundas, statues and public buildings.

 It's all about service - a bustling city that copes efficiently with millions of tourists - buses, boats, restaurants, cafes  - all at the ready to provide a wonderful experience from early in the morning to late in the evening.
And for us this week for us, it's been all about the Seine, and the fabulous setting it provides for the city.

M&M
30/8/12
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We've had 28 hits on the blog from Russia but only one from Romania...interesting!

DAY 6 : PARIS

What better way to start the day than with fresh pastries, bagettes and fruit from the local market. Bob, our expert forager and specialty source, did an early morning reconnoitre and brought back a feast that set us up for the day.

Traditional fresh French breakfast

Mark and I walked to Rodin's Garden and Museum, which was originally the Hotel de Biron, built in the 18th century. It has had a varied history of being a convent and Rodin's Paris residence, saving it from demolition. It converted into a museum in 1919 with Rodin bequeathing much of his marble and bronze statues to establish it. It is a very peaceful space - gorgeous chateau - like home - and gardens filled with sculptures. The museum is not cluttered but has just enough of his work to satisfy the visit.

The Thinker by Rodin at the Musee Rodin

 

The former Hotel Biron now Musee Rodin

 

We met Julie and Bob at a restaurant near the Eiffel Tower. It is a favourite of theirs and our first fine dining experience in Paris. A  delicious experience with such care to every detail.

 

 

Fine dining at Au Bon Accueil

 

Rum Baba

 

 

Mark and I made a quick trip out to Montmartre and Sacre- Coeur Cathedral, managing multiple changes on the Metro excellently with no stress!  There was lots of life in the underground including a large band playing rousing Russian music.

Lively buskers in the Metro

 

  Montmartre was the bohemian artists' quarter in the late 19th century and early 20th century. Unfortunately we didn't see much of its charm today as it was full of tourists and tourist paraphernalia. We caught the funicular to the Sacre-Coeur Cathedral, built as a memorial for the 58,000 French soldiers, killed in the Franco-Prussian War  (1870-71) and finished in 1923. It is an impressive landmark and can be seen from the centre of Paris.

Sacre-Coeur Cathedral

We have enjoyed our walks - across the Pont des Artes, the pedestrian bridge where lovers attach locks, with their names inscribed, to the wire netting.

Pont des Artes with Ile de la Cite in the background

Lovers' locks

 It is very safe to walk around at night with families and friends (and tourists!) enjoying the ambience.

Along the Seine at night

M&M
29/8/12
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DAY 5 - PARIS

Another drama-filled start to the day as we took the Metro on an early morning run - we found the number, the colour, the destination but I , in a colour-blind moment, mixed the purple and pink lines. We had a few anxious moments as we moved from one line to another to correct my mistake..but still reached our destination by 8 to catch the bus to Versailles.

A very interesting morning at Versailles (45 min drive south of Paris) and it was fascinating finding out about the Louis X1V and XV1 and their passion for this chateau and estate.

The Palace of Versailles

 It is certainly opulent and gives a good understanding of the period. Much of the interior and furniture was desecrated during the revolution of 1790s but it has been restored beautifully. The Hall of Mirrors is particularly impressive where much of the large balls and celebrations were held.




The Hall of Mirrors

 I found the bedrooms interesting with their heavily brocaded walls and furnishings -  one of the Louises  believed that a bedroom should face the east to get the morning sun and that they should be beautiful, full of joy and action!

A room for beauty, joy and action.

The gardens are extensive, varied and beautiful with the fountains flowing.

Manicured gardens

We wandered back from the Avenue d'Opera and walked from the Louvre, along the Tuilleries Garden, originally commissioned by Catherine de Medici when the Louvre was a palace. Beautiful sculptures, ponds adorn the area - many people were out enjoying the sunshine in such a glorious space.

Sculptures in the Tuileries Garden

 

Ponds and outdoor cafes in the Garden

Julie and Bob have arrived to stay with us after spending time in Rouen and Giverny.

Drinks on the deck

 

 After drinks on the deck, we walked to the Marais district and sampled one of the restaurants Annika had recommended to us. Originally an artist's home, who liked to entertain, it is now a very popular restaurant with a simple menu but excellent food.

Waiting for a table at L'Ebouillante

We returned on foot -  good practice, I know - savouring the sounds and sights on a pleasant balmy evening.

 

Paris at night

M&M
29/8/12
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DAY 4 - PARIS

 

Bateau Simpatico made it into 'Extreme Hotels'

 

The bathroom

 

 

We added another notch to our successes today and actually managed to reach our destination on the Metro - now that we realise that it is not enough to know the colour and number of your line but also which way you need to go.

Many of the city museums and galleries are closed on Mondays so we decided to go early to Notre Dame - as the queues yesterday were off-putting (so we had lunch instead!) - but today we were able to move in with a group immediately.

Mondays - a good day to visit Notre Dame

Another 12th century building - wasn't that an amazing era! - not as breath-taking as some we've been to but beautiful stained glass and wonderful sculptures on the facade. I loved the tribute sculpture to Joan of Arc - burnt alive in the 1400s as a traitor and redeemed in Notre Dame in 1909.

Tribute to Joan of Arc

But my favourite is Saint Denis, who was the bishop in Roman times - he was beheaded for forsaking the Roman gods. Legend has it that he tucked his head under his arm and found a suitable resting place to die. The Parisians were convinced this was a miracle and he was sanctified.




St Denis

We had arranged to meet Mark's cousin's daughter today at 11 at Hotel de Ville - a huge plaza near Ile de la Cite. Annika has just completed a Psychology degree and is working with mentally disabled people in group houses in the south of the city. She showed us around the Marais district.

Cafe in the Marais district with Annika

We had a wonderful hour or so with her. She found a creperie for lunch. We were the first customers of the day. Our host, put on some classical music, breathed deeply, and created our savoury crepes with great professional aplomb.

Our inspired host, motivated by classical music and heavy breathing

 

Crepes supremo

 

Today we decided to walk from the Marais - up through the Place des Voges - to the Canal St Martin. Maybe not the greatest decision, although it was a fascinating walk - as today was the clearest, hottest day we've had. Once we reached our destination - lovely to see so many people eating lunch in parks and along the canal - we found a Metro station and cooled down on the way home.

The entry to Place des Voges. Henry 1V (1589-1610) built this centrepiece and called it La Place Royal.
From 1832-1840 Victor Hugo lived at #6 and wrote Les Miserables during this time.

 

Canal St Martin, with its locks, fine arched footbridges and treelined walkways - very picturesque.

 

M&M
27/8/12

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