JULY 2008 : ITALY : Memories of the Via Francigena : Aquapendente - Lake Bolsena - 20 kms

Memories of the Via Francigena

Aquapendente - Lake Bolsena - 20 kms

“Last night was as we had anticipated rather a noisy due to the scout group, which is maybe a jamboree,which was occurring outside our windows of the convent. I must admit we are usually so physically tired that we can sleep through anything. (We were waiting for Kumbyah in Italian but it didn t happen) 

We are now moving down to the plains, which is.much drier but still sunflowers, corn and lots of families havesting their potato crops. Bob is foraging for blackberries and has had some success with apples and plums! So the paths were flatter today. 

Setting out today

We stopped in San Lorenzo Nuovo for our 9 am snack and thought it was unremarkable until we walked to the end of the street and there over the valley was a huge expanse of a misty Lake Bolsena. So we were teased all of the way to the township (another 3 hours) by the sight of the refreshing water as we sweltered. 

Bolsena is another Etruscan town on the edge of a huge volcanic crater, which houses the lake. An important point on the Via Francigena because in the 1200s a priest was celebrating mass when he saw blood appearing from the host (the bread) and the celebration of Corpus Christi began here. 

My favourite story though is of St Christina, whom the catacombs and cathedral are named. Her father accused her of being a heretic, so he threw her in the lake but she survived. He weighted her down with stones but she still survived. He had archers shoot her with arrows. Now she is the patron saint of the area. What you have to do to achieve sainthood!

The lower part of town is a little like Batemans Bay at the moment with tourists galore. We went down for a swim but not very appetising with.mossy rocks and dark volcanic sand. Despite this, there are hotels and holiday accommodation all along the strip. Bob’s tip for dinner is a white fish from the lake. We wanted to go and see the catacombs but unfortunately there was a funeral procession into the church as we walked into the piazza. Tonight we are in a small hotel, Hotel Nazionale, as we’ll need the air conditioning because it is quite humid. 

Some highlights

The main piazza

Well cared for gardens along the shore

Fish galore

Afternoon drinks

We opted for pizza for dinner

Only 112 kms to Roma.”

M&M

JULY 2008 : ITALY : Memories of the Via Francigena : San Quirico d’Orcia - Gallina (bus) - Radicofani (23 kms) - Aquapendente

Memories of the Via Francigena July 2008

San Quirico d’Orcia - Gallina - Radicofani - Aquapendente

“Up to date we have all walked about 350kms and only now 130kms to Roma so there is added momentum to our planning. 

Yesterday we were able to organise a taxi from San Quirico at 7am with the help of our Italian pilgrim friends (Lilliana and Luciano) ) to Gallina  (to save llkms of walking time in the heat), which turned out to be the marker for the 43rd parallel. 

Radicofani, our destination, in the distance

We walked from there to Radicofani. Yes, another hilltop town. Impressive to walk towards,like the celestial city but murder to ascend in the heat and when you are hot and tired. Our hostel was a newly renovated house in the town, which the VF run by volunteers. Our hosts were Marco and Luisa from NW of Trieste near the Austrian border. They had brought with them delicacies from their region..cheeses, meats, a light white sparkling wine, grappa and La Grubana, which is a bun with nuts, chocolate and dates. It was like being in an Italian family home for the night. The hostel was just six beds and one bathroom. 

Marco insisted on a foot-washing ceremony before our dinner

Luisa proudly presents us a Slovenian meal

La Grubana - a bun with nuts, chocolate and dates

We had eaten lunch in a local trattoria as we are always famished after walking our 6 or so hours. Tuscan soup — lentils, veal and other meats but not goose as we d had a few days ago — served rare with plum chutney — very nice. 

Radicofani is more famous for its tower and fortress high up on the summit of the town. At the moment for the summer tourist season, they are recreating  a medieval village. The main highlight in Radicofani ‘s history was a battle 450 years ago when the Papal forces attacked the town, under the control of Siena and won. 

Climbing to the top of the town

The view from the top

We left Radicofani at about 6.30 am, after big bowls of coffee and biscuit toast. Italians aren’t big on nutritious breakfasts! Then we headed off down the ridge. The landscape has changed. There are now large expanses of ploughed fields, a bit of light industry in the valleys, a fewquarries, sheep, still sunflowers, more corn and small personal vineyards. We were on a path for half of the time today and then the asphalt road. 

Our first view of Aquapendente

Aquapendente, also on a rocky outcrop, but not as high as some we have climbed this week. The town  rose to prominence in the 10th century as a pilgrim centre for those who could not travel to Jerusalem. The crypt in the duomo houses one of the bloodied stones said to have been at Jesus crucifixion, which also drew pilgrims here. 

The Duomo

The crypt

Dinner

Tonight we are staying at a Cappuccin convent, run by a very friendly group of nuns, which is high up a hillside. It was a bit of a struggle managing the last section with my blistered feet. There is quite a hive of activity as there is a large group of scouts camping on the site as well. The convent itself is not in great condition but the rooms are adequate for us and there is a chance to do our washing and refresh for tomorrow. 

Convent of the Cappuccin Sisters

Tomorrow we walk to Bolsena,which has a huge lake so we hope we will be swimming. We haven t been lost again, which is comforting. Every day here is in the 30s so it is hot for walking but very pleasant in the balmy evenings.”

 M&M

JULY 2008 : ITALY : Memories of the Via Francigena : Siena - Buonconvento (train) - San Quirico d’Orcia (17 kms)

Memories of the Via Francigena July 2008

Siena - San Quirico d’Orcia 

“This morning we left Siena by train, and it was a short trip to Buonconvento to begin the day’s walk

 We have decided that with only 8 days to go and many difficult contoured hill climbs on the map, that we would fast track to Buonconvento. Again it was a hot day — 34o — and mainly on the asphalt but again the scenery was fascinating, although much drier — wheat mainly. We haven’t seen much wildlife. Lots of little iridescent lizards, a yellow spotted snake, some porcupine quills, the odd squirrel and lots of dogs, barking at us all the way from Switzerland. Atenti al cane..Beware of the dog on every gate post. 

San  Quirico d’Orcia

At about 1 we arrived at San Quirico d Orcia. A small, beautifully presented town on a small hillside. Originally Etruscan but first came into prominence about the seventh century, when the first church was built here. 

Artist’s impression of the hilltop town

We were so appreciative of any shade that we grabbed a table at the first restaurant we came too. Just our luck. What a menu - hare, wild boar, tripe as well as other specialties, fresh pastas etc. 

We have been drinking lots of acqua minerale frizzante as the water in most places down in the southern region has not been all that palatable. In the north there were lots of public fountains for travellers and the water was divine. No fast flowing rivers here as it is very dry. Of course the beer and red wine has been very refreshing too. As have the gelati with favourites this week being fig and nuts and pannecotta. We have also eaten the most delicious fresh figs, actually the fruit on the whole has been fresh and delicious.

 Tonight we stay in another hostel, opened by a volunteer, attached to the church. Bunk rooms with kitchen and bathrooms. Another Italian couple are staying tonight as well. They are from Milan but began the Via Francigena from Canterbury in May. We have organised with them to catch a taxi (tomorrow being Sunday) early tomorrow morning for the first lOkms so that our walk will be more manageable. It is long and with an ascent of 300 metres to another hillside town, Radificone, which promises to be another spectacular stay. Think of us, mainly me, climbing tomorrow..I hope not hobbling, but it comes second nature to me now! We both have striped tans..from sock marks to bottom of shorts and from wrists to elbows..a look we think that might take off.”

Pilgrim hostel attached to church. We attended 6pm mass before dinner

Luciano and Lilliana planning tomorrow’s itinerary with Bob

A few restaurants to choose from in this small town

We chose Ristorante degli Archi

M&M