My sister, Ros, and husband Phil had always dreamt of a family holiday on the island of HVAR, where his father, Bert, was born. In the European summer of 2010 they rented a lovely home on the harbour of the small port town of Stari Gradand generously invited us all to share in the wonderful experience.
TRIESTE
We flew into Milan at 6am and caught an express train at 9.30 to Trieste. (6 hour journey)
A beautiful port city on the Adriatic Coast, Trieste is sophisticated, created during the Austro- Hapsburg era Home of the first coffee house, refuge of the Irish author, James Joyce, major trading port, home of 700,000 Triestans who lost their lives in WW2. One of the architectural highlights, situated on the northern coast, is the White Castle, Miramar, built in the 1850s for the Austrian Archduke Maximilian. We really enjoyed our time there, wandering the streets, dining at outdoor restaurants, watching the activity along the port.
Stayed at the Nuovo Albergo Centro, which was excellent.
ZADAR
We caught a bus from Trieste, changing at Rijeka to travel to Zadar. Zadar suffered during the war during the 90s but has emergered as another attractive port. The highlight was the restaurants along the foreshore and the Sea Organ. It was designed in 2005 and is a sound and music extravaganza. Pipes under the pier produce musical notes as waves push air up through the pipes, with corresponding light panels beaming out the notes.
The only thing that really reminded us of the war was our accommodation in the outer regions of the city. It was as dark as a bunker and we detected bullet holes in the external walls. * (1 star to Hotel Venera)
On to the bus..
SPLIT
A port with so much life. The old town is the Palace of the Roman Emperor Diocletian (284- 305 AD). It has become the organic heart of Split, with additions and renovations creating a modern take on its ancient foundations. Party central. Ferries and cruises for all the Adriatic destinations.
STARI GRAD, HVAR
Acknowledged as the oldest town in the Adriatic. It was originally colonised by the citizens of the Greek island of Paros, chosen for its safe harbour and fertile soil.
A great summer holiday destination but in winter residents move to their homes in Split and Albania, leaving their fertile gardens and vineyards to the cold, stormy winds.
Every meal a celebration!
Special attractions all over the island
A walk to the port of Jesna
Franetoviches unite! The Croatian branch still holiday on Hvar every summer, maintaining their original family properties.
Adventures…
Perfect, perfect, perfect!
DUBROVNIK
Dubrovnik is the ultimate walled city and has been occupied by civilisations throughout the Mediterranean, from 966AD when it was first besieged by the Saracens. Like Trieste it was also part of the Austro-Hapsburg monarchy from 1814. Latterly it featured in the 1990s conflict, with many museums and photographic galleries recording the atrocities and terror of the time.
We found accommodation with a difference - a small apartment tucked into the outer walls of this fortress. Through the skylight you could see tourists circumnavigating the walls.
Delicious seafood, convenient beaches, interesting galleries and lots of summer concerts and music.
ABU DHABI and DUBAI
Good friends, Robyn and Doug and their 8 year old son, Hugh, were on posting in Abu Dhabi at this time so we had a stopover on the way home and spent a few days with them.
We visited the Sheikh Zayed Mosque and the 7 star Emirates Palace Hotel.
We also did a day bus trip to Dubai in 50oC heat where we investigated the spice and gold souks, enjoyed all the contrasts of ancient and modern around the harbour.
Wonderful reconnecting with Robyn and Doug and experiencing a little of their life in the Middle East.
M&M
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