Having being awarded another four weeks of Covid lockdown in Canberra we must turn to a virtual life, including international travel. I’ve been going through old diaries and photos and thought I’d add our failed Via de la Plata walk to our blog cohort. We enthusiastically planned this walk after a wonderful experience of the Camino Frances the year before. What we hadn’t banked on was the remote, difficult terrain in Spain’s Meseta region, the extreme dry and hot summer conditions and the long distances between accommodation. These facts coupled with my ongoing issues with blisters, and subsequent shingles made this a very interesting trip. Despite our naivity and lack of fitness we were able to turn the three week holiday around enjoying much more of Spain than we expected.
Our planned walk is the yellow line marked on the map.
Our trusty guidebook and my detailed diary which I meticulously wrote, in the days before mobile phones and unreliable Internet cafe connections.
MADRID
We flew to Madrid and had a day’s sightseeing planned before we headed off to the northwest. Our packs were mislaid during our journey which was a little unsettling but were returned to us just before we were to leave Madrid. We enjoyed our first experience of the capital, staying in a hotel near the Plaza Mayor and close to many of the sights, like the Prado and the Royal Palace. Summer in Madrid is magical with so much on offer.
SERGOVIA
Our first stop was Sergovia, an hour and half bus ride from Madrid. It is a walled city with impressive Roman aqueduct and an enchanting Moorish alcazar, which many Disney castles have copied. We had excellent accommodation in the main plaza, which came to life after dark.
SALAMANCA
A further two hours west we arrived in Salamanca, which is one of the main centres for the pilgrim route, the Via de la Plata. The oficial route begins in Seville and is becoming more and more popular. Salamanca was invaded by Hannibal in 220BC. Loved exploring the main square, the cathedral, climbing the Jeronimus Torre, and visiting the most exquisite Art Noveau & Art Deco Museum.
VIA DE LA PLATA : DAY 1 : SALAMANCA - EL CUBO - 35.3 kms - a long, long day
It became patently obvious early in the day that we were not adequately prepared for this adventure. It was hot, dry and there were no facilities along the way. My feet began swelling and producing blisters on the first day. Despite beginning the day at sunrise, we arrived in El Cubo late in the afternoon. We had general instructions about locating a local woman to get a key for the basic accommodation in the little church in the main square. We wandered around aimlessly for some time and we were eventually approached by a little old lady who had let us in.
VIA DE LA PLATA : DAY 2 : El Cubo - Zamora : 31.6 kms - another long, long day
Another strenuous day with little respite from the heat and a lot of the day tramping on sealed highway.
ZAMORA
Zamora was a revelation, like an oasis after two dry days’ walking. Another town with a rich history - Roman, Visigoths and Moors. It was buzzing with their annual garlic festival of San Pedro and local dancing.
DAYS 3 &4 : Zamora - Granja de Moreruela - Tabara : 59 kms
It was clear after another two days walking that my feet would not recover well enough to continue but we were proud of our efforts on such an isolated route.
At Tabara we decided to catch a local bus back to Zamora and then take an 8 hour bus ride to Seville to recuperate,and do some sightseeing.
SEVILLE
We felt we had arrived at the tourist central with thousands of tourist groups being led by guides with coloured flags around each major attraction, including the largest European cathedral built in the 12th century in 9 months on the foundation of a mosque. We loved the tiles, the gardens, the architecture, the plazas - just a sparkling city with so much energy.
GRANADA
While we in the vicinity we thought we’d tick another destination off our bucket list. Granada and the famous Moorish fort of Alhambra, established in the eighth century. As there is such a demand for tickets, there are two sessions a day and must be pre-purchased, or so we thought. Fortunately we were able to get tickets on arrival at the site - only 8,000 people per session!! It was fabulous. Three hundred staff are employed for the upkeep of the gardens, excavations etc. All the original fountains and ingenious water features are all in working order. From a dusty plain the Moors created an oasis with exquisite architecture, gardens and sheltered pools. It was a wonderful experience.
OURENSE
An overnight bus to Ourense in another valiant effort to complete more of the walk…maybe.
Ourense - another surprise! Long and interesting history, beautiful central plaza and shopping area but the highlight were the hot natural springs!
RETURN TO THE VIA DE LA PLATA
OURENSE - CEA -OSEIRA - ESTACIÓN De LALÍN : 58 kms
Two more days on the road was enough. Blisters…heat…and lack of regular accommodation. We even spent one night in the grandstand at a public swimming pool. I espied a railway station, checked the timetable and as luck would have it there was a train passing through in an hour, just in time for a quick lunch at a workers’ canteen.
SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA
We arrived in Santiago as tourists not pilgrims. We had a few extra days to play so we did lots of the tours, attended concerts and exhibitions, visited museums, did a rooftop tour of the cathedral and thoroughly enjoyed the city. There was a traditional dance spectacular over a few nights in one of the cathedral squares. Very pleasant sitting watching such enthusiastic entertainment on summer evenings.
BARCELONA
Our last few days we spent in Barcelona. Again, another perfect summer destination. Vibrant, fun and we absolutely loved all the artwork - especially Gaudí and Miro.
Unexpectedly, one of the most fascinating holidays we’ve had!
M&M
PS In the next 5 years I managed to overcome all the issues with my feet and have walked thousands of kilometres without blisters. We look forward to the opportunity to do it again soon.
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