JUNE 2014 : EASTERN EUROPE : Zagreb, Croatia

       

 

Three days in Zagreb

We left Budapest on a 6am train for Zagreb. A 7 hour trip in a very comfortable carriage but we hadn't bargained for no dining car, so we were pretty hungry on our arrival. Other more sensible passengers had ample provisions, one lady near us had a whole suitcase full of tasty morsels.

We were able to navigate our way to our modest hotel. Guesthouse Zagreb for You, by tram from the main station - 10 minutes and are very happy with our clean and convenient accommodation. The guesthouse was an old fire station and has been cleverly renovated in Art Deco style.

It was apparent from our first few minutes in the city that it was not necessary to organise tours to get around. The centre of the city is quite intimate and well signposted, despite having several distinct areas - basically the older area or the Upper Town and the modern Lower Town, joined by the large Ben Jelacic Square, where all the trams, the main form of public transport, pass through.

A relief map showing the upper and Lower Towns. The creek has now gone and replaced by winding streets.

Ben Jelacic Square

It has a Mediterranean feel, as it is a city of outdoor dining and living. There are many beautiful parks, botanical gardens, cemeteries and gardens, all used by the public. We even visited the famous Mirogoj Cemetry. Huge and beautifully maintained. A few interesting names. I don't think Biserka is a girl's name I would recommend, but it does apply to many of our family.

The Italian tradition of passagio, where families come out in the evenings and meet friends in the city squares and parks, is alive and well here. Cafés and restaurants are everywhere and well frequented. The coffee is excellent and the food beautifully prepared and presented. 

Families out enjoying the summer weather and entertainment in the evenings

Outdoor dining everywhere

Not for breakfast though. Just coffee. Luckily we happened upon this Belgian Waffle place and met the loveliest proprietor. A Bosnian married to a Zagrebian. They lived in Belguim for a few years and invested in this business in a high end property area bringing expertise but the locals haven't taken to the idea, fortunately tourists have but for only for the 2 month high season, so it makes living difficult.

The food and flower markets are open daily, so people must buy fresh produce daily and there are large bakeries throughout the city, which serve from tempting displays of delicious smelling breads.

Dolac daily  food and flower markets

We were given a tourist booklet of Step by Step Zagreb. We followed it religiously and discovered all we needed to know. As the weather was so fine we concentrated on walks rather than indoor museums. The city was also celebrating CEST IS D BEST - music and street theatre in venues throughout the city - so we enjoyed being part of the fun of that as well.

The Upper Town looking across towards the main cathedral.

Ramparts built in the sixteenth century to ward off Turkish invaders

St Mark's Square in the Upper Town with Mount Medvednica in the distance. Close to the city and a popular hiking and skiing venue.

The Strossmayer Promenade in the Upper Town

Beautiful park in Zrinski Square in the Lower Town

Fascinating museum, which started as a travelling exhibition. I bet it's the only museum where every word is read on each exhibit. Diverse and bizarre stories.

       

One of the more extreme artefact and stories - no life was lost just all the furniture.

Unfortunately some of the museums were closed but there was definitely something for everyone. Needless to say, the mushroom exhibition didn't appeal.

Lively place from early morning and into the evening.

Our only regret is that we won't be in Croatia for the first game of the World Cup when Croatia plays Brazil. 

In short, Zagreb is highly recommended. A great start for a trip to Croatia. Just as wonderful as Dubrovnik and Split, despite not being on the coast.

M&M

7/6/2014