Day 5 : Slap to Stanjel (3 hour walk) Climbed up to a distance of 342m
Weather : fine with a breeze 22o
Today we walked over the ridge from the Vipava Valley into the Karst via the village of Gaberje. It was a lovely walk along vineyards, fruit orchards, meadows, woodlands and cornfields. We only realised after Gaberje that the settlement high on distant hills was Stanjel, our destination for the day. Stanjel is an ancient site, with evidence of Illyrian and Roman settlement and important as a vantage point for the Hapsburgs and Venice. In the sixteenth century the castle wall was constructed as protection against the Turks.
In more recent history, an Italian doctor from Trieste, Ferrari, invested in Stanjel, creating a summer villa with beautiful gardens,designed by the local major, Max Fabiani. Unfortunately, these were bombed during WW2. Fortunately all was not lost and many of the buildings are under restoration.
At present there is a modern tourist office, gallery exhibiting the works of Slovenian graphic artist, Lojze Spacal, a large bar/restaurant/cafe, gardens and examples of Karst architecture. It is an interesting town to wander around and take in the amazing 360o views.
Mark and our hostess from last night in our farmstay in Slap.
Leaving the farm and walking into Slap proper.
One of the many shrines on the route - you can even do a shrine loop.
We set off walking along vineyards
Cherries and pears ripening
Mark is enjoying following the detailed directions of our guide book, which are not always straightforward. More shrines at the crossroads and a personal vignette reflected in the roadside mirror.
The town of Gaberje.
The mobile grocery service. These little villages don't have supermarkets and although they are probably self-sufficient for vegetables etc some older residents must be reliant on this service if they are without transport.
Our first glimpse of Stanjel way off into the distance.
A steady walk uphill for about an hour.
Gradually the town takes shape.
The main entrance through a tower. Dr Ferrari had this renovated as a dining area for his villa.
Immediately through the archway and we were at our B&B.
www.slovemianholidays.com/apartma-marija-jera
We had our packed lunch in a little public courtyard.
The apartments are modern and clean hidden by an ancient exterior.
Compact kitchen and modern ensuite
We were surprised at the excellent facilities particularly as the fellow at the tourist information office said that town water had only recently been available to residents. Until then they used the traditional method of water collection from rainwater with pipes taking the water from the gutters to a fountain nearby. Here is a traditional Karst house with the original system.
The Ferrari garden just outside the castle wall
Karst Houses by Slovenian graphic artist, Lojze Spacal (1907-2000)
There is a permanent exhibition of his work in the castle gallery
The cafe/bar/ restaurant in the centre of the town. It is within the old castle wall,which you enter through a Baroque gate and at the other end is a stairway and fountain with 1694 engraved on it.
We had dinner here tonight and we were able to watch Australia play Holland. They insisted we have mussels as they had some fresh. Delicious.
Another surprise!
M&M
18/6//2014
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