DAY 13 : SPAIN : BELORADO to SAN JUAN DE ORTEGA - 22.3 kms - 5 1/2 hours

Distance walked so far : 1017.8  kms

Weather : cold and drizzle : 14o

Destination San Juan de Ortega

 

Climbing from the plain into the Orca Mountains

 

Our albergue in Belorado, despite crowded conditions, provided an excellent meal in their family restaurant last night. We sat with some interesting guests. One, a bike-rider from Belgium, has ridden from home and will ride 2,400 kms to Santiago on a high tech 2012 bike with kevlar tyres and clip together frame construction. Claudia, originally from Venezuela, now living in Miami, works for the US Park Service in the Everglades National Park. We were also able to have breakfast (desayuno) at the albergue before we left, which was very convenient as we didn't see any bars open as we left the town.

Breakfast provided in the albergue, Belorado

We continued walking on the plain - and this morning, yes, there was rain in Spain on the plain! Only drizzly rain, but quite cold.

A long, flat path in the rain (in Spain on the plain!)

 We walked through a few villages, one of which was Villambistia. Their local church was dedicated to Santo Roque, or in France known as St Roche, a very popular saint on the Via Podiensis. We don't know much about him but he is always depicted with a cut on his knee, either left or right, and a dog beside him - we assume who was responsible for the injury. The statue was a little more graphic than we've seen and appealed to my sense of the dramatic.

St Roche and his unfortunate scar.

After we reached Villafranca Montes de Orca we climbed 1150m into the Orca Mountains and walked through a State pine and oak forest for about 13km.

Climbing.....

 

and a long walk through pine and oak forests

 

We were delighted to arrive in San Juan de Ortega about 2 pm. It is just a hamlet, servicing the passing pilgrim trade. San Juan was a disciple to Santo Domingo and set up an Augustinian monastery in 1150, which has now become the pilgrim albergue, where we are staying. He was proported to have special fertility powers. The barren Queen Isabel of Castile visited the monastery in 1477 and later conceived a child and in gratitude, greatly embellished the church. We attended a simple pilgrims' mass at 6 - many of the towns on the route provide a mass and blessing each night.

Albergue in San Juan an old Augustinian monastery in
the church precinct.

 

The sepulchure of San Juan de Ortega

We are delighted with the heating and general ambience of this historic building. There is a little bar nearby, the only eatery, which provides a simple menu in a cozy atmosphere. A warm respite after a chilly walk.

　

A warming meal in the local bar

 

 

 



M&M
19/10/12