JULY 2015 : SPAIN : El Camino del Norte : Day 28 : Abadin - Vilalba (20.9 kms - 5 hours)

VgDistance travelled : 684.9 kms

Distance to go : 124.1 kms

A flat walk of 20 kms today, through wetlands, farming communities and forest paths.

        

                       We left the crowded cafe at 7.30, leaving the compact town of Abadin.

         

                    We were immediately in farming country with misty views of the mountains.

           

             We still found time for blackberry foraging.

          

Quite a crowd on the road, including a Dutch pharmacist who has walked from The Netherlands, starting her walk in April.

         

                                Everyone prepared for the wet weather.

         

                     The 3 arched medieval bridge in Pontevella, which crosses the River Batan.

         

           Activity in the farms bordering the path.

                                            

There were several examples of religious and modern art - on stone houses, stone crosses and stone washing places.

       

         This impressive cemetery in Goiriz has a style of something between Gothic and Gaudian.

        

             Huge cabbages, pumpkins, even spinach - none of which normally grace the Spanish table.

          

A long walk into Vilalba, a provincial centre. It has had a cultural boom, according to the guide book and is considered a "hotbed of intellectual and cultural activity". Hmmm.

                                        

We are in a private albergue, Albergue Juristico. 10 euros a head with provision for breakfast. 

        

It is absolutely immaculate with good facilities and close to town, unlike the public albergue, also modern, but a few kilometres out of the town.

                                           

                                                            The Municipal Arts precinct.

                                                

                                                              Some lost locals having a bad day.

         

            Some interesting architecture and historical houses.

        

This is the octagonal Torre de Los Andrade, a 15th century tower from a family castle. It now forms part of the town's Parador.

       

Near the albergue we found a great restaurant, Laros Pios,with local fare. We have been a bit hit and miss with lunch, as the Spanish eat between 2-4pm and if you don't make it then you may have to wait for a full meal until 9pm when they reopen for dinner.

       

We had local cheeses, Caldo Gallego (spinach or nettle soup with beans and potatoes) and my favourite dessert which is a creamy cottage cheese with honey served in a little pot.

Lazy afternoon as we wind down to some easy days' walking in the next week.

PS Excuse my bemused look. Even the most solubrious cafes and restaurants have TV screens, which are most distracting. I'm watching an international swim meet in Kazan, Russia. Missing the ABC and Radio National... but that's about all!

M&M

JULY 2015 : SPAIN : El Camino del Norte : Day 28 : Lourenza - Abadin ( 25 kms - 71/2 hours with stops)

Distance travelled : 664 kms

Distance to go : 145 kms

       

                                          

Perfect walking day. 22o with the Brea, northern wind, as our constant companion. We walked on a quiet minor road with excellent shade, climbing to 525m.

       

We have maintained our routine of breakfast at a cafe at 7pm and beginning to walk at 7.30pm. Because of the shortage of places in albergues many of the pelegrinos are starting off before 6am so we are seeing very few walkers during the day.

        

We are now walking in the mountains, with a cooler climate. We admired these wind turbines high into the distance this morning, little did we realise how close we would come to them later in the day.

                                        

We passed through small market gardening communities and their shrines and churches, like this chapel, Capela de Virgen de Guadeloupe in Carballel.

       

         Looking towards Mondonedo

       

          Grand house and with French- inspired garden as we entered Mondonedo.

         

           Fabulous thirteenth century cathedral and square in Mondonedo. Definitely recommended

          for an overnight stay. One of the highlights on this section of the Camino.

                                         

         

                                          Sampling Mondonedo cake, a Spanish-style baklava.

                                           

       

                                                        Decoration on the cathedral facade.

           

                                      The cathedral is renown for its frescoes.

           

                  And stained glass windows.

         

     Ancient fountain at the bottom of the town. We immediately begin to climb up from this point.

                                      

Our Mexican family were on the road, finding the first hill a trial. The son is now proudly sporting a skate board.

       

      A constant climb, with views of villages and mountains, with the breeze cooling us as we went.

         

            

        

          Near the top in Lousada there was a sign that there were drinks at the orange house. Granny 

          was in charge with a selection of drinks.

        

         

          The master of the house served us and Mum translated, introducing us to the farmyard     

           collection of animals and displaying some of their crops.

        

          Before we knew it we had reached the height of the wind turbines. Quite a climb! 500m.

        

          Tonight we are in a highway town of Abadin. Delighted to be here and staying at the Casa Goas 

          Pension Restaurante. 39 euros with breakfast. Immaculate, comfortable and perfect after a 

          full day's walk.

         

  Tonight we had dinner at the pension. Instead of plodding through the menu in semi-translation the waiter took us into the kitchen, and took our orders, as we pointed to what we wanted.

M&M

JULY 2015 : SPAIN : El Camino del Norte : Day 27 : Ribadeo - Lourenza ( 30 kms - 8 hours with minor stops)

JDistance travelled so far : 639 kms

Distance to go : 170 kms

All the planets aligned today with an easy exit from Ribadeo (despite the lack of waymarking), cool, overcast weather with a pleasant breeze and excellent tracks and minor roads. Very comfortable day despite the 30 kms.

        

This hospice/ chapel was on one of the minor roads out of Ribadeo. It is dated at 1555 and was an original pilgrim hospital.

                                         

                                       When the waymarking began it served us very well all day.

         

                 Out of the city and into the countryside - dairy farms, market gardens and cornfields.

         

  Last view of Ribadeo to the left and the very attractive town Vegadeo on the right side of the bay. (We drove through there on the bus yesterday).

       

We were in eucalyptus forests most of the day, skirting the highway and around hills into valleys.

         

 

     Stone houses with slate roofs and minimum decoration, unlike in the houses in The Asturias.

         

 

                                The smaller, rectangular horreo.

      

                                Small ancient churches in little hamlets.

         

                                      Hydrangeas in every colour in immaculate gardens.

         

            Spectacular views of farming hamlets, the mountains and forests.

       

          Some local information about the route in Gallicia.

         

Not many fountains or opportunities for food, but this community in Villamartin Grande provided a room with shelter and food in vending machines.

        

                                         Pleasant walking with expansive views.

         

            A tortilla in the small town of St Xusto.

                                       

                                               Shady paths for the long entry into Lourenza.

          

                First view of Lourenza. Not a particularly impressive sight. 

                                              

Lourenza was built up around a Benedictine monastery, San Salvador. The Baroque facade was designed by Casas y Novoa, who also was responsible for the cathedral in Santiago.

                                              

                                                            Details in the monastery's facade.

                                                

                                                                  Highly decorated pipe organ 

             

                                      A surprising bit of grandeur across from the cathedral.

             

Perched at the end of town is our hostal, La Union. 50 euros a double. Again not the most auspicious establishment but our room is clean (with bath!). 

                                        

We have a balcony for drying our clothes. Quite hot now at 6pm after such a mild day. 

     

                    Tasty Menu del Dia (11 euros ) at O Pipote with Australians, Carol and Mick.

   

M&M