OCTOBER 2022 : FRANCE : STEVENSON TRAIL : Day 10 : Florac - Cassagnas : 19 kms

[Enlarge map to see where we are]

Stage nine

Florac - Cassagnas 

19 kms ( 29,564 steps)

6 hours with stops

Forecast : 19o and rain (only a little)

Breakfast included 

Rain this morning as we started out. We met the Belgium contingent running for their bus. They finished walking yesterday. We will miss their chatter.



We walked along the road and crossed a bridge and were back in the forest.

Only a few walkers. Lovely walking.

The path followed the river and we could see interesting houses in the distance.

Chestnuts and acorns were the order of the day today

Some novel signposts. Our red and white markers are spaced consistently and the crosses prevent us going in the wrong direction.



After exiting the forest trails we had another happy realisation that the next and last 8 kms would be on a disused railway track by the river  which meant flat and grassy terrain. This included 3 tunnels!



Finally we crossed the main road on to another flat track ..

And we arrived at the Ancienne Gare - the old railway station - now part of a tourist park, Espace Stevenson.

We had made such good time that we arrived about 2pm. Unfortunately everything was closed - end of the season - and our lift to a surprise location this evening arrived at 4.30 to collect us.

Thank heavens for my book!

At the appointed hour Brigette collected us and drove us high into mountains to their gite with spectacular views of the valley below, Les Dentes de Cevennes.

The gite is full of character with cats and a 18 year old dog. Emphasis on welcoming guests rather than housekeeping. We are in for an interesting evening.

Lovely bedroom with immaculate ensuite (and loo)

Our hosts

Cold zucchini/chèvre soup

Mushroom and sausage with red wine sauce

Potato gratin

Selection of cheeses

Pannacota and apricot jam

M&M

OCTOBER 2022 : FRANCE : STEVENSON TRAIL : Le Pont de Montvert - Florac : Day 9 : 30 kms

Stage eight

Le Pont de Montvert - Florac 

23 kms (40,526 steps)

7 hours

Forecast : 18o and cloudy (actually 21o and sunny)

Early morning in Le Pont de Montvert

Breakfast for two. We suspect we were their last guests after a busy season. He was indeed a Basil Fawlty but milder and with a French accent.

There was a frenzy of walkers queuing for lunch items at the small supermarket and boulangerie. We opted for quiches and avocado.

Then we left the town passing Marco and his donkey, who was feeling despondent after such a torrid descent yesterday.



A spectacular ascent out of Le Pont

In only 20 minutes we were at the top with green pasture and lots of rocky outcrops.

We were given some directions to shorten the walk and we conferred with the Belgium contingent as to when to turn off.

We spent time on the road and forest paths. Very quiet. Oh, the tranquilité! There was a lot of activity in the forests with mushroom gatherers out in force. It’s a kind of mania!

Pleasant walking

Then there was another option to shorten the trail. We headed off enthusiastically but it wasn’t long before we realised there was a downside - another steep rocky descent.

Again, Mark acquitted himself brilliantly, surviving the experience and successfully meeting me at the entrance to the town of Florac.

Walking through Florac

Our swish 3 star (with lift) hotel, L’Hôtel Gorges du Tarn



Dinner included

Chèvre salad

Beef stroganoff 

Lemon meringue pie

Delish!

M&M

OCTOBER 2022 : FRANCE : STEVENSON TRAIL : Day 8 : Le Bleymard - Le Pont-de-Montvert : 21 kms

[Enlarge map to find where we are]

Stage seven

Le Bleymard - Le Pont-de-Montvert 

21 + kms (44,306 steps)

Forecast : 17o and sunny

Breakfast at 7.15am and picnic lunch with breakfast leftovers

Our lovely French amis 

Starting out. We walked through the centre of Le Breymard 

Early steep ascent on a forestry trail 

At the top we were in the ski fields.

Husky kennel nearby

Followed the path, cow pastures and then we lost our way..

We followed a forestry path but became less certain of our way. Then we decided to cut our losses and follow the road to the next town, Finiels.

We emerged from the pine forest into a different world. A rocky moon landscape and villages way down on the valley floor.

Hallelujah! In Finiels we rejoined the GR70 and had lunch with some of the Belgium walking group and our German girls ..and 3 chooks and a blind Labrador.

Just out of Finiels there were two cows preening each other on the narrow path. I thought it was hilarious as walkers tried to squeeze past.

Quite a different landscape. Huge boulders teetering precariously. Then the path changed from a grassy path to a perilous danger zone for about half an hour - steep and constant.

I watched walkers below and prayed that Mark behind me was safely descending.

Amazingly he appeared unscathed. 

Our hotel is non-descript. We think we are the only guests tonight. They have put us high on the second floor (no lifts), so quite an effort to drag our bags upstairs. I’m expecting a Basil Fawlty experience as we haven’t met any staff yet.

Best thing is the town!! Quite a lot of life by the river, which we have enjoyed since showering and recovering.

As we arrived at the bar, a fellow had a huge box of mushrooms, freshly picked. Looking forward to having some on our menu soon.

Drinks with the friendly Belgium group. They were a group of 12 but in just 3 days one of the women has hooked up with a Frenchman. Now they are 11.


 

Our hotel

Dinner

Vegetable soup 

Tomato and avocado salad

Fish (maybe cod) and veg

Chestnut tart

M&M

OCTOBER 2022 : FRANCE : STEVENSON TRAIL : Day 7 : Chasseradès - Le Bleymard : 17 kms

Stage six (second half)

Chasseradès- Le Bleymard 

17 kms (32,901 steps)

6 hours

Weather forecast : 18o and sunny

Breakfast and picnic lunch provided

Crocs in a range of sizes available for walkers’ use in the gite (picture below)

I said to Mark that there should be a sign

Croc monsieur (et madame)

but he didn’t think it very funny

Misty morning with the early sun shining through

A friendly good morning from our German friend from her hotel room as we passed by

Chasseradès. We walked through this lovely village and then, climbing up through the little lanes until we came to the cemetery with spectacular views of our route today.



Minutes away we had a view of a large viaduct for the railway built in 1893.

We descended into Mirandol, the hamlet at the base of the viaduct and then up again.

What a bonus the railway must have been to this area in the early 1900s.

Then we started climbing up into the forests.

We came across a very enthusiastic fellow with a basket full of large mushrooms! Later at the bar Mark met a guy who has been employed to pick mushrooms in the forest for 3 days. It’s obviously the season.

A lot more walkers joined the trail today. A large French walking group, a friendly Belgium couple - everyone enjoying the perfect conditions.



As you can see on the profile of the walk, there were lots of climbs and descents today but again on safe paths and mainly in the shade. 

There are quite a few gites (hostels) around here as it is a popular walking and skiing area.

Our destination today Le Bleymard.

We found our hotel, La Remise, as we descended into the town. A very popular meeting place.

Walkers stopping for refreshments before finding their accommodation. Our hotel is full.

Autumn is a popular season!

This hotel gets a few extra stars. It’s on the route, is open all day, with functioning heating (for drying our clothes) and rooms contain a toilet and a bath (with plug!). Heaven.

A well-rehearsed menu

Chèvre salad

Sausage and lentils

Apple tart



M&M