JULY 2019 : GREECE : DAY 3 : Heraklion - Chania by bus : 3 hours

A morning in Heraklion - the provincial capital. Amongst the historical buildings there is a thriving modern commercial centre. We had breakfast in Lion’s Square, a leafy area filled with cafes and restaurants.

A typical breakfast

The fountain inspired the name of Lion Square

The main cathedral with its highly polished dome

Some graffiti-inspired décor

A memorial to WW2 with a gum tree backdrop. We thought there might be some Australian connection but nothing on the plaque to reflect that. Australians proudly served here to support the Greeks against the Nazi regime.

P

Remnants of the past

The Archaeological Museum with articles found in sites in relative proximity to Heraklion, particularly of the Minoan period. A very stylish modern museum with items clearly displayed and labelled.

Early pottery - thousands of years old - coffee anyone?

Burial chambers, similar to the Egyptian sarcophagus 

Early frescoes

This story particularly appealed to me with so much emotion shown by both characters. The details below.

Fine gold work, this is a bee gathering pollen

A snake goddess

Early forms of writing

The discovery and introduction of metal into artwork brought a new level of sophistication 

After our whistle stop tour of Heraklion, we walked around the port to the bus station. Sea was a little rougher today

Icarus

Busy bus station coping with the throngs of tourists

We were heading to Chania (15€ pp), a three hour drive to the west

A rather elaborate bus stop along the way

Rocky hills covered in olive groves

Attractive coastline 

Some small resorts

We arrived in Chania about 3.30pm. We are staying in the old town near the port in the Enetiko Rooms (60€). It is a very attractive area.

Our room

With sea views

Some interesting light meals today. Zucchini boureki and escargots. For dinner I had a seed-encrusted fried feta and strawberry salad. Everything is very reasonably priced. Wines so far have been quite rough, and sometimes unpalatable, but plenty of other choices.

Late in the afternoon, although still very warm (30C+), we walked around the port to the lighthouse.

Many attractive buildings, varying from Venetian and Turkish (both ruled here for a time) and more latterly Greek.

The original tannery district

The harbour view from the lighthouse

The mosque, Giali Tzamissi, dating back to Ottoman times in the 17th century. This was the first mosque built in Crete in 1649. It ceased being a place of worship in 1923, when the last Muslims left Crete.

Venetian arches ( 1252-1645)

Lights on as the sun sets

Keen photographers capture the sun set from the lighthouse

M&M

JULY 2019 : GREECE : DAY 2 : Piraeus to Heraklion, Crete by ferry : 7 hrs 45 mins

Today our adventure begins. We are heading to Crete, one of the largest islands in the Mediterranean. We left Athens early,  catching some of the archeological sites in the early morning light.

A simple breakfast near the railway station

The 30 minute train ride to Piraeus is €1.40. All the carriages were packed. It was a simple process. The trains all look like this, full of colourful graffiti, as if it was government issue.

Piraeus is a busy port, definitely a transit stop, not a tourist destination but there were some attractive sections on its shoreline.

More creative murals

Directions to our boat weren’t all that clear so we made a few inquiries along the way until we found the correct course

At last we caught sight of our ferry, Minoan Lines. €70 pp for an economy ticket

There were a range of options for the day, comfortable chairs inside, in cafes but we decided that around the pool was our best option. We couldn’t believe the amount of dogs, who could sit with the their owners or spend the day in caged area on the upper deck.

There was only one stop at about halfway when we dropped off passengers at the island of Milos. The entry to the small port was spectacular with the shining hilltop village and the colourful seaside shacks hugging the shore.

The main town and port of Milos

At 6.45pm, right on schedule, we docked in Heraklion.

The bunfight for passengers with large cases to get the single small lift to the correct deck for disembarking.

Welcome to Crete!

It was only a 10 minute walk to our accommodation.

Around the port

Heraklion Old Port Apartments, €60. Three star, our choice. Not the level which would appeal to many travellers our age but this is great - full kitchen with coffee machine, stylish bathroom, good wifi, staffed reception, immaculately clean and air conditoning. Washing done and on the balcony!

Restoration of local sites. This one nearby. We look forward to learning more about that tomorrow.

Dinner along the port. Mark had small squid cooked in an ouzo cream sauce and I had a grilled sea bream. Our first taste of  a complimentary raki, the local liqueur - clear, with a flavour of castor oil, not something I’ll be making a regular habit.

The kitchen was across the road, so the waiters had to dodge cars every time they served a dish. I bet there are some interesting anecdotes of near misses and spilt soups.

A cool sea breeze was a refreshing change after a humid afternoon. Looking towards the Venetian Fort. 

And in Aghiou Titou Square

M&M

JULY 2019 : GREECE : DAY 1 : Athens

After 43 years we are returning to Athens. Still backpackers, after a fashion. My memories are never clear but I do remember we investigated every archeological site methodically and enthusiastically with a Greek Blue Guide. Today was just a stopover and catch up on sleep day, so not a heavy tourist itinerary. Impressions : yes, Athens does seem rundown,  broken pavements, smelling drains and graffiti but it does still have charm. We were staying in central Athens in the Plaka where there is plenty of life and goodwill - relaxed, no pushy vendors, as much greenery as they can plant in an urban environment and lots of lovely music, often wafting from a small square, from a doorway. Restaurants and cafes galore catering for the thousands of hot and tired tourists. An intimate area with so much to fascinate, educate and entertain.

We arrived at sunrise, 6am, and it was already 29oC.

We took a public airport bus to Syntagma Square. 6€ for the 45 minute journey.We were not disappointed with our welcome. The guards are still on duty at Parliament House and protecting the tomb of the unknown soldier.

We climbed the steps towards our guesthouse, which is just below the Acropolis.

A simple, clean en-suite room, quiet, equipped with a large fan but no views unfortunately. 50€.

Cafes, situated a few metres away from the guesthouse, lining the steps. We had a cool drink, pistachio milkshake for me, of course, and planned our day.

Greek souvenir stalls 

Tourist central. Quite a few American high school groups on summer holiday tours.

Something for everyone

I’d forgotten about all the small Byzantine chapels spread through the shopping precinct, some now tucked in the archway of a large hotel.

Exquisite icons

But the winner every time is the Acropolis and the Agora on the lower slopes. Such a fabulous legacy the Ancient Greeks have left the city. Although it was so hot today the site was closed at 1pm. A big climb for tourists to just get to the entrance.

Archaeological dig for one of the Agora sites

Obviously music holds a special place for this community

A shady restaurant for lunch

Why not start the holiday with kalamari and deliciously dressed salad.

Tomorrow we catch the ferry to Crete!

M&M